rcb280z

$900.00 is a GOOD price for sure!

HS30, guess I should have said state side.

Thanks Carl, you are right, I did a little investigating and found this same info also. I would like to give this forum and maybe another a chance at them before listing anywhere else because I may be the only one with a New set, NOT reproduction, that are still in the boxes never installed. I know that alone should be worth a lot. thanks, Bob

Wanted to give everyone a chance at something I thought I would never sell. But first I want to know what you think they are worth. I have a good idea but want to hear from you. These are the real deal, NOT reproduction, european tail lights. Take a look.

Dave also made me a PL harness and HL harness upgrade. They work perfect.

Little too expensive for me! Would have to come down half in price to consider it.

Very cool!

Restricted by CA law is exactly it Steve. I used to run SU's when I lived in Vegas for a short period of time and I loved them and the adjust-ability I had using them. Here you can't even polish anything under the hood without the smog police running square up your a$$!

Nice! Wish I could do some performance upgrades to my 77 280. What steering wheel is that and what gauge is that in place of the clock? Bob

I'm with Blue....under the dash, inside glove box, inside center console, ash tray. I myself would make it easy to access the cable.

You can usually rent a compression tester from your local parts house.

Penetrol is a great additive. It also helps to prevent rust. I would probably try it inside but would prefer a professional spray for the exterior.

Can't wait to see pics of the seats.

Anytime, glad to help.

I already gave him the ebay link for that one. Its up to him now.

Eurodat, he is actually looking for the metal tube that is under and at the rear end of the intake. It connects the exhaust manifold to to the intake (egr) for emissions.

I second FastWomen on the new tube. I bought one from MSA a couple years ago. Couldn't see paying more for a used part when I could get it brand new. It was a little difficult installing it though. Mostly because it's not the easiest to get to. http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mIB-l8nSsw62-X7PESw5EQA.jpg javascript:; Go to the above link. This is a Fed one 14120-n4701

I'm having the same problem. Lasts for about 15 minutes each time.

You can get them at Motorsport auto

Now you have an excellent list in front of you. You can see now there is some work to do. It will be well worth it to do it now. Post results as you go so everyone can help you. There is so much good info on this site you can't go wrong.

The state of CA will not allow any engine mods of any kind. You have a pretty good list of things to do, just scanning through it quickly. As far as "lines" go make sure fuel and vacuum lines are replaced. Do a valve adj, compression test, and a complete tune up and post results. Be very careful doing any "power washing" of the engine bay. Make sure to thoroughly dry EVERYTHING. I should add...anything after 75 still needs to pass an emissions test as well as a visual inspection.

Those are on the earlier 280's. My 77 doesn't have them. Great project you have there. It's more enjoyable with a group of friends for sure. I would like to do mine again. Keep the pics coming.

If air is entering the system it will get hot. But that would have showed itself during the pressure test if you had the heater core "open". I think. Now I'm second guessing myself. Long day at work. But I do know for a fact that "air" in the system will make it run hotter.

Thats too big of a fluctuation in temp. 50 degrees to be exact. Too much. You are running a 160 thermostat and you still get up to 210 and it sounds as if it would keep climbing if you don't open the heater core. Are you sucking air anywhere? Have the system pressure tested. I had an over heating problem once due to a leak. You can also check the fan clutch by running the car up to temp and with a rag balled up in your hand VERY CAREFULLY try to stop it from spinning. Apply just a little pressure on the fan and you will know. If it slows down it's no good. If it fights you and will not slow down it's good and then at that point I would look for a leak, (air) in the system. Just be sure before you go buying things that you may not have to buy you have verified the cooling system is working properly.

Lenny, I say we trick the "man" and make this work. Sounds like the ball is in my court so to speak. I'll bet I can make it work. Bob