rcb280z

The problem with that is; I bought them off ebay. So....... I did buy the FJ707's. That's what I'm having problems with.

Standard brand T-Series is a fit whenever a commercially acceptable product is called for. That's good if you don't mind changing them out often when they go bad I guess. As what is starting to happen to me. Should have sent my OE ones in a long time ago to be rebuilt. ZedHead, this is the same stuff I found too after posting this thread. Site, how many miles do you have on these injectors? I may have 6000 on mine. Not very many to be having the problems I'm having. First one would leak down into the cylinder over a couple hours. Found it via a wet plug. Now have one with an intermittent electrical issue, not connector related.

While I was in Vegas (17 years) I ran a set of su's on my 77 and loved it! Back to California and had to put FI back on. If you are a carb man you cant help but love the su's. I bought my su's from ZTherapy in 1995 /6, somewhere around then. Never had any problems that couldn't be remedied right away. Wish I could get away with it here.

Yeah I see the pintle differences for sure. How about spray pattern or CC's? Can't find that info either. Economy version is fine with me. I just can't find any "performance" info on them. Unless I'm missing it, like its right under my nose and I don't see it.

There is a lot of info available on this subject. Almost too much info. Has made it difficult for me to choose one over the next. Narrowed it down to 2. The FJ707 (FJ3?), or the FJ707T. Can't find any info describing the difference between these 2 injectors. What is the difference between the 2? What does the "T" stand for? I installed these (FJ707) 3 years ago. Was going to send mine off to have rebuilt after installing these, why I bought the cheaper ones, but of course my originals are still sitting in the garage. Now I think one of the replacement injectors (a second one) is going bad (intermittent electrical issue). When it doesn't work I can tap on it to make it work. Haven't decided whether I'm going to replace them all so they all match or what I'm going to do just yet. I did replace a leaking one a couple months ago and now having the electrical issue with another one. Not sure of quality now. Shouldn't of had any issues yet IMO. Thanks for any input.

I helped a friend with the same situation a couple years ago and we used ATF, heated a few times hoping it would help the ATF to penetrate the threads and then grabbed it with the monster vice-grips and that did the trick. Good luck and keep us posted. Hope you have enough of the bolt exposed to grab onto!

Cool, good to hear from ya Lenny.

Is the drive train original? Standard or auto? Gone thru twice meaning what exactly?

Boy I would be happy if my seats looked that good Matt. Nice job.

Gosh, I sure hope you get it back! Eyes wide open now.

Definitely contact the local news. I sure hope you get it back!

Diluted CLR? Hmm...I will have to try that. Bag and label everything that can be bagged.

The reason I asked about an altitude switch (back earlier in this thread) is because it affected my 77 280z when it went bad. But then realized the 75 didn't come stock with one. I lived in Vegas for 17 years and would cruise to Mount Charleston which is over 9000'. One day My Z was running like crap (started midway up) and ran that way all the way to the top. Long story short, it was the "altitude switch". Even though the switch only compensates by 6% (leaner) it was enough to foul my plugs when it didn't work. Wonder why Nissan didn't later fit the 75 and 76 with them after realizing it was needed. Especially if the switch connector is wired in the harness as Mike has already verified. That tells me it was considered correct? Mike it is a 2 wire connector if that is what you found. And the other interesting thing is I do not see it in the 75 wire diagram. Explain that one, someone please. Another time I burned up what seemed to be a 1/4 tank of fuel going up the mountain because my advance wasn't working. 20 minutes of up steep mountain climbing.

Just a couple questions: Stumbles at 5800 rpms, How often do you run it like that? 15 degrees timing with NO advance? Whats the terrain like, hills and mountains? or flat land? Isn't that enough to cause very poor gas mileage? I know when I run mine hard WITH vacuum advance on "flat land" I get poor mileage. You can run it hard like you do, shut it down right away and check the plugs to see if they are still fouled (Sooty). Might tell you or the members here a little about whats going on. And maybe just drive it around without running it at 5800 rpms and check the plugs. This is how I found I had a rich idle only, and was lean at WOT.

Isn't that the engine to body ground?

Not 100% sure but I believe you have an "altitude switch" correct? Have you checked it? My 77 FSM Says altitudes over 3,675 energizes the switch leaning the amount of fuel by 6%. Not a lot but if you have this switch and its malfunctioning along with no vacuum advance your fuel mileage will be poor IMHO. Just something else to eliminate. NEVER MIND, just found my 75 manual and it is NOT listed for your model. Probably hence the reason it wasn't talked about yet. Sorry.

You may have better luck contacting him through his website, from what I hear.

Wow! Its in fantastic shape.

This was really good reading! Thanks for the link.

I just looked at a leak down tester at Harbor freight. Might pick up one.

So are the "leak down" test's easy to perform? I have never done one.

There you have it. Mike, I have been thinking of doing the same thing. I sometimes don't drive the Z for that harsh ride reason. Don't get me wrong, I loved the ride 20 years ago but.....

The good thing is the 2 lower cylinders are not adjacent ones. I was able to verify exhaust valve problem with the old fashioned way with a piece of paper at the tail pipe. The paper does want to suck into the exhaust. Will perform another compression test soon. Have never done a leak down test but am looking forward to doing one.

BTW, its my 77 280. The one that is in the "Got bored so...." thread. Im probably sweating over nothing but I don't recall seeing this a couple months ago. I just wonder if there is any correlation between this and the lower compression I got in a couple cylinders when I did a compression test about 6 months ago. A couple of the cylinders were down about 20 psi IIRC.

Depends on the ride you are after. If you want to replace them because they are now worn out but liked the ride it gave you before then I would go stock. And finding them may be an issue. Have you searched for original ones? Don't base your decision off one persons opinions. Get others from this site. If I had it to do again I would go stock bushings, if available, and lowering springs, which will stiffen the ride, and adjustable struts. Hmm.....I see another project coming.