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phi22b@ck

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Everything posted by phi22b@ck

  1. busted it.... I now have a slight crack stemming up from where I have the picture above... SO is it legal with a small (>4 inch) crack in the drivers' sidce corner? This suxx so bad -- all so I could paint the darn cage. Ne1 have a spare windshield they will sell really _cheap_? Boy am I not happy with myself on this one. I was working at the lower corner as you were saying above and then tried to pry from the top (it looked like it had looesned) and that was it -- nice crack noise and now I guess I am looking for a windsheild. I have one on my parts car, but it also has a rock chip and a slight crack in it... Thanks for all the help!!!
  2. phi22b@ck posted a topic in Racing
    Ok so I will wager that 2Many has the answer to my quesiton, but any one who knows feel free to shout it out! Where in the DC/MD/VA area can I get DOM tubing for my door bars? 1.50x.120 is what I need -- I really dont need much either so if any of you guys have some extra lengths please let me know. If I end up getting any extra I will most likely do the petty bar and the firewall supports -- Anyone have any suggestions/reviews on these 3 bars? Thanks!
  3. here is a shot of the clips I am going to mass produce for IT guys around the world... Could be the beginnings of my billion dollar racing empire... Buuuwahhahhhahh... No really -- you were right, very very simple. p
  4. So here is what I have completed so far... The windshield still has not come loose, but I am confident that if I keep trimming the edge back to expose the edge of the glass I will have success. Here is a picture showing how I have cut away to expose the edge of the glass. Let me know if this is what you were describing (it is how understood it).
  5. I* could fab clips to hold the lines in the proper placement -- the 90* turn on the driuvers side to get around the box lid is a perfect example!
  6. What if I plum the lines down out through the sheet metal? Here is a pic of what I was thinking... The 1px stroked lines are the "steel" braided lines... + how do you show the image in the post instead of attaching?
  7. Those are actually ATF I am using on my Navigator -- see the race car doubles as a storage unit. I have a flat piece of sheet that has holes cut out as you just described -- should the rubber grommets create an airtight seal with the nipples from the cell or are the grommets simply to keep the line from being cut? Thanks for the compliment on the install -- that was my first real fabrication -- that and the cart fro my welder. p
  8. Here is a view of the bottom (and my messy garage floor!) -- shows how low it hangs down. Mine is a Safequip 16 gallon cell. p
  9. Here is what mine looks like pre-bulkhead. I have yet to build the bulkhead.
  10. You should definitely have a welder. All the tools listed above, + get a good setof c-clamps and maybe a couple of pipe clamps too, I have used these on more than a few occasions. A good space heater for the cold days and a fan to help ventilation too.
  11. 16 Gallon cell is already in -- I was afraid to drop mount it below the floor pan as it would then hang rather low... In retrospect it would not have been such a bad plan but oh well -- it's mounted in more solidly than the original tank was... So my idea of building a raised box type lid should be sufficient... I will hopefully be able to post pics this weekend! Thanks guys -- perhaps I should simply PM you both my quesitons -- you always seem to be the first ones to answer. (8^>) p
  12. Ok so I have fabbed up and welded in a really nice NASCAR style cage for my fuel cell. I have welded it in and patched the floor areas surrounding where the cell is now. Upon closer reading (read "first time") of the GCR, I need to bulkhead all of the inlets and lines. How have any of you guys done this in the past? I am curious as to how this should look when done -- I definitely understand the purpose for this, but am not sure if I should just build a hinged cover over the whole assembly or not.. Thanks! p
  13. Your right -- that is the right way to do it... I probably would do it if the gaskets were not so expensive. Thanks for the help!!! p
  14. I tried a search before posting but came up empty. ??? Mike?
  15. So in the GCR it says that these clips are recommended...
  16. That will be my plan of attack! Where did you get the aluminum clips? If you fabbed them -- any recomendations on how to fab them up? I am also curious what you advise using for the glue, as well as the sealant. I would imagine that plain old black silicone sealant from the 'depot would be ample for the top fillet, but the lower layer of glue seems to be a bit more important... Thanks again! p
  17. Thats cool HM! Would you mind posting a higher res image of your windshield? It looks rather easy to do -- so I really wont need the black rubber, or the aluminum trim that is currently on there? How did fab up your clips? Thanks!
  18. How do I _SAFELY_ remove the windshield? I need it out to access some of my roll cage, and the FSM is not very detailed as to how to do this. I will also need to reinstall it -- what do I need to get that done? Thanks! phi22b@ck
  19. PM me your price... I am in desperate need of the "budget" set up... Just want to get through the school and then I can get the extra set ups... Thanks HM! I was thinking about making a post asking any of the IT guys if they had any pieces parts that they wanted to sell. Let me know if you have any other seconds your interested in selling too!
  20. I need to know what diameter and height I need for springs -- the springs I took off the back of my ITS roller were certainly not the right size... Can someone please tell me what length/diameter/rate I would want to run in my ITS 280Z car? I certainly appreciate all the help!
  21. phi22b@ck replied to a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Could also be used as a short for Nitrous Oxide. Depends on where you are having this discussion.
  22. Many thanks! Mods seem to be my middle name of late!
  23. How about a 76 or a 78? From all the other prior years?
  24. Buy and use a grinder. My floor pan patches do not look so good -- the 23 gauge wire with voltage set on the lowest setting was burning through. I ended up with lots of spots instead of a nice bead. The grinder made it look a little better, but not perfect. Take your time.

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