phi22b@ck

duh -- that is if you run the ducting from the airdam to the brakes... Sorry too much holiday cheer. ROTFL

Another important thing you can get out of having an airdam is forced air onto the calipers and rotors -- by adding ducting you effectively improve the life and effectiveness of your brakes. p

I would strongly recommend the upright tank models. I have an upright 30 gallon and you can move it much like the horizontal if you need to. I have a really small (and occupied) 1 car garage and needed the upright tank for footprint. All of my friends who have the horizontals have told me if they had it to do over they woudl get the upright for the reduced footprint. Make sure if you do get one of the big ones you have 240 in your garage already -- otherwise you will end up running an extension cord from the dryer -- I have to do that with the welder and it never makes the wife happy b/c that is always when she needed to do laundry... My $.02... p

we must have been typing at the same time

One good reason to use the poly bushings is that they last longer. I have heard that you can experience some noises, but I dont know that for sure. Given that you will be using it as a daily driver you should probably opt for the 5 speed as it will give you better highway RPMs. I will defer to the pro's like 2Many as to what type of insert and what type of rear end you should use. Dont think I would tow anything with the Z, but if you see it as a necessity yous should be able to get a 1" square hitch from uHaul -- not sure what the weight rating would be, but Sea Doos are not all that heavy... My $.02 and how I would do it...

What about crankshaft and rod assembly balancing? Would you do that on a basvkup? (I was thinking after schools I would switch them and start a tear down on the "old" motor"). p

My goal is to trim as many costs as possible on my racing engine build -- this is for a backup motor. I am really cheating the reaper by not replacing EVERYTHING, but since I just want to scoot around the track for a while with a beefy suspension and at least a semi-purring engine. I can wait a few seasons before I do a FULL build.... 2many -- I know I know -- not enough money to do it right the first time, but there is always enough to do it again... Inevitably the right way is replacing everything, but that can be done later :+)

2Many -- that would imply proper prior planning... something I am rarely guilty of... Thanks to all for the help! p

Ok, I have an L28 that has been _OCOMPLETELY_ dismantled. The block is at the machine shop getting tanked and miced. If it comes back within spec for the bores, what should I soak the piston/rod assembly in to dlean all of the carbon off? I remember hearing something about using some special brush for cleaning them but it has slipped my mind at this point. Also -- if the pistons that came out are within spec, and look OK what are the gains (oustside of oversizing) for getting new pistons and pins? I am definitely doing all the bearings, rings, and rod bolts already, but dont know if I should plan on getting new pistons... Thanks! p

Escanlon has truly summed it up here... Only problem is that this is reality in a parallel universe where the wife understands when you say "I need that classic zcar in the garage _more_ than you need a new mustang in the garage"... ROTFL I here your pain... Mine wants the parts car out of the driveway begininning of spring...

Make me a an offer and I may part with it, I was thinking it may be one of those things I would want to have as an extra, for my racing efforts, but now that I am trying to generate as much revenue as possible... Thanks!

hit the wrong button... Help me understand why I sold all of my extra pieces and parts without trying to adapt them into my Z...

So are you telling me that the 4 post from the 2nd genners would fit on the 1st gen z cars? help me understan

If your asking about the door panels (interior) as far as I can tell they are in GREAT shape. The door skins for exterior are good, with the usual environmental attacks. Let me know if you want pics of the doors. The fuel tank is fine -- I replied to your email.. let me know what you think... p

I am actually holding on to all of my engines and pieces for all of my race efforts. Sorry! p

Got it covered! 2Many has come through again!!!

I need a good windshield.. As cheap as possible for my ITS race car... this is due to the fact that I got over-excited while removing the one I had (was in perfect shape too!!!!) Oh well...

I dont have a log book yet. I am still building for initial tech... The GCR doesnt say we can do plexi -- dang this bites... If it doesnt _say_ you can... There goes another C note +....

I am building a 76 280. I will add up what the lengths are I need... I appreciate it. We should defintely have a ClassicZcars race... Have you run at Summit before? OH -- BTW HM, I really dig your war wagon -- did you fab that or was it an acquisition? p

busted it.... I now have a slight crack stemming up from where I have the picture above... SO is it legal with a small (>4 inch) crack in the drivers' sidce corner? This suxx so bad -- all so I could paint the darn cage. Ne1 have a spare windshield they will sell really _cheap_? Boy am I not happy with myself on this one. I was working at the lower corner as you were saying above and then tried to pry from the top (it looked like it had looesned) and that was it -- nice crack noise and now I guess I am looking for a windsheild. I have one on my parts car, but it also has a rock chip and a slight crack in it... Thanks for all the help!!!

Ok so I will wager that 2Many has the answer to my quesiton, but any one who knows feel free to shout it out! Where in the DC/MD/VA area can I get DOM tubing for my door bars? 1.50x.120 is what I need -- I really dont need much either so if any of you guys have some extra lengths please let me know. If I end up getting any extra I will most likely do the petty bar and the firewall supports -- Anyone have any suggestions/reviews on these 3 bars? Thanks!

here is a shot of the clips I am going to mass produce for IT guys around the world... Could be the beginnings of my billion dollar racing empire... Buuuwahhahhhahh... No really -- you were right, very very simple. p

So here is what I have completed so far... The windshield still has not come loose, but I am confident that if I keep trimming the edge back to expose the edge of the glass I will have success. Here is a picture showing how I have cut away to expose the edge of the glass. Let me know if this is what you were describing (it is how understood it).

I* could fab clips to hold the lines in the proper placement -- the 90* turn on the driuvers side to get around the box lid is a perfect example!

What if I plum the lines down out through the sheet metal? Here is a pic of what I was thinking... The 1px stroked lines are the "steel" braided lines... + how do you show the image in the post instead of attaching?