phi22b@ck

Think it will help get the &*&^(*^(*&% rear spindle pin I have stuck (sheared off on one side, and mushroomed on the other) out of tthe control arm? :classic:

how much for the radiator?

do you recommend ordering it in aerosol or liquid?

What I was thinking was cutting the rear struts to use the GR2s that would normally be used in the fronts.

I got a great deal on a pair of illuminas for the front (shortened) so thats where I'm headed on the fronts. Now I need reaers -- any big deal if I use a different kind? GR2s are relatively inexpensive and can be revalved after they soften right? Cant seem to find the billsteens... Oh well... maybe next time

I am installing shortened struts so the gland nut I got with the strut is not the right size... I will spray it with WD40 and let it sit overnight -- then do it all over again tomorrow with heat... Guess I should see if WD40 is flammable before torching it eh?

Ok -- I think the parts I have from underneath my ITS car were put on there only to test my patience... It would appear that the front gland nuts are really on there good or siezed (like the *&*^%%$ rear spindle pins!). What do you guys use to get these out? I was thinking of taking it up to Sears to figure out how big it was and get a socket to fit it. -- I tried channel locks, vice grips -- I even tried to use an 18" pipe wrench... BUt I didnt want to strip it...

I am looking for a pair of front strut inserts for a 280Z. I really would like Illumina's, but I am open to KYB, Koni, and BillStein's as well. p

The license plate certainly says it all -- in a literal sense "1NASTYZ"... Thats horrible, makes me feel like my frankenstein aint so bad...

I will clean that out... sorry... I need your address for shipping.

I will try that tomorrow... Here is the extent of the rust damage to the battery area... DOH -- that was pretty bad!! :devious:

Ok so here is a shot of teh bulkhead I welded up yesterday -- I still need to plum (plumb?) it to the pump and ot the engine bay but hey -- there still isnt even an engine up there to suck in the fuel ROFL

here is the back side of the junction block -- again the desired plug for removal is circled in red. THANKS! p

Ok, so I have cut out all of teh rust and I want to weld in patches for my battery tray, but the wiring harness enters the engine room near where I am welding and the sparks wont be nice to the harness. :tapemouth How do I disconnect the blue tail end from the junction box that is mounted to the passenger firewall? Here are pictures of what I am talking about -- the tail I want to siconnect is outlined with a red square. I tried to gently pry it out, but this plastic is kind of brittle and I dont want to risk breaking it. Juntion1.jpg shows the front.

So I noticed you wee asking how to remove the sound deadening. I have done this in more than one car and have used a few different methods. By far the _BEST_ way to get this stuff out of the car (IMHO) is to use dry ice -- use just enough to cover it, let it sit for about 5 minutes, then strike it (the now frozen sound deadening mat) with a chipping hammer and pick up the pieces. This will get you right down to the metal and leaves very little residue provided you get all ofteh small pieces too. Then you can simply use your shop vac to sweep up all of the pieces. Oh -- be sure to wear safety glasses.

Yeah -- I am hoping to go for something like a shortened KYB or Koni. I was looking for billstiens, but I need model compatibility first. I have also heard that the rabiit struts work, but I dont know -- there seem to be some issues with softening due to the weight, Rabbits weigh aa bit less than full dressed Z cars...

how about sharing the plans? I understand if not... Just like to see the methods of madness I want to build one, but figure I have already burnt myself with the welding and grinding sparks -- I am almost done. Maybe when I restore something else I can apply the technique.

Sorry if this is a cross post but it fits into several forums. Can anyone tell me what the cross-compatible struts are for my 280 when I shorten the struts? I have heard that the 86-91 MR2 rears will work as shortened front inserts, but would like to hear others' experience, plus what other options or any suggestions. This is for an ITS race car. Thanks! p

1. finish fuel cell installation 2. rebuild rear brakes 3. rebuild front brakes 4. install brake prop valve and plumbing 5. install coil overs and camber plates 6. weld in patch pieces for the battery area (rusted) 7. weld in NASCAR style door bars 8. transplant engine and trans from parts car to ITS car 9. fenders and bumpers from parts car and install on race car 10. fab up airdam 11. duct front brakes 12. begin rebuild on spare motor and trans 13.*** NEWLY ADDED *** replace the windsheild that I broke while trying to remove it for painting the roll cage (**&%%$##) 14. paint it and apply required numbers and sanctioning stickers. dont think I will have any extra change though

Nick -- I am in the US so I am unfortunately no help at all.. Let me know the results if you do end up building it -- here is a great write up on how to make one (sure you have already seen it but worth posting again). http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/phenley/rotisserie/index.htm