Captain_Zeros

I put in another 2 cents for "check the fuel system" On my '73 the culprit was a pile of crap that got caught in the electric fuel pump's filter, and it had very similar symptoms of stomping on the throttle and nothing happening and trying to limp down an offramp and waiting for 5 minutes.

Not me! (or any of the local eastside Zs I know of)

I'd just replace the block, I doubt it would hurt the value appreciably.

Any reason you haven't gone with an internally regulated alternator? There is a reason nobody has made mechanical voltage regulators for 40 years, they simply weren't that great of a technology when they were new. Not that I condone new parts failing like this.

Check chapter ER - Engine Removal

Also like that when I got it :stupid:

On the car when I bought it.

My '73 has brake booster running to the balance tube, PCV running to the balance tube, and a valve cover breather line (not a vacuum device, per se) running to the air cleaner box (not a vacuum source as far as carbs are concerned, all upstream)

Basically all you need to do is make sure any air that SHOULD be going through the carburetor isn't going AROUND the carburetor. Any lines hooked up to the air cleaner are already upstream from the carbs and therefore irrelevant as far as tuneups are concerned. However, anything hooked up to the balance tube is downstream of the carbs so if there are cracks in those lines or other faults letting unmetered air get into the engine it'll lean you out and give you an erroneous tune-up. The brake booster doesn't need to be unhooked for tuneups if it's working properly (eg not leaking a bunch of air into the engine)

Brake proportioning valve?

Original. As far as Nissan not printing their name on things... pop the hood and look at the valve cover!

They're labelled "fuel" and "fan" :tapemouth

Had too many stupid little toggle switches and needed one more, so I made a panel that fits under my ashtray. Secret racecar!

Yep, that's cast. Cheap water pumps usually have a thin stamped impeller like this: They tend to wear out quicker, so I've heard.

280z redline is 6500 rpm. It has a shorter connection rod to stroke ratio than the 240z (7000 rpm redline) because that extra 0.4 liters had to still fit under the hood. On the stock tach there is also a "yellow" zone for 500 rpm below redline on both cars which the manual suggests not routinely using. But as people have said above, those numbers are for a new car off the dealer lot, not one that's coming up on 40 years old.

If you're talking style, there are tons of people who make that design of wheel, in fact panasport can be considered to be a knock-off themselves! They're a copycat of old minilite wheels. Panasport on left, original minilite on right.

Question: What configuration is your car in? Stock? Carburetors? 68,000 miles isn't much, does the car spend a lot of time parked? It could be as simple as being in need of a good tune-up and some fresh gasoline, or it could be something more involved.

Dumb question to get out of the way first: Old gasoline?

Awesome that that's Bruce Palmer endorsed, 'cause that's what I did on my car!

funfact: also, '73 flat top heat shields don't have anywhere to mount throttle return springs, because the throttle return springs on the flat tops anchor to the carburetors themselves. Ask me how I know :stupid:

MSA is Motorsport Auto, aka Z Car Parts.com -- Motorsport Auto -- Home We like them, they're good people.

I've got a couple shirts like Tomohawk, one time they got me 7.5 feet of fuel hose when I bought 5 feet of fuel hose at the parts store

Anything over 25 years old is smog exempt in Washington :tapemouth

Check out your driveshaft U-joints.