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Everything posted by Namerow

  1. Ironic, too, that Haynes is a British publisher. Brings to mind an old saying: "If Britannia rules the waves, then why can't the British build a car that can drive through a puddle without stalling?" Mind you, it appears that the Brits were looking at practical implementations of electricity as early as the 1600`s -- long before the likes of Ben Franklin, Count Volta, Galvani, Volta and Ampere appeared on the scene. In fact, they apparently invented the words, 'electric' and 'electricity'.
  2. Namerow


    Shifting topics for a moment, here's a useful op-ed piece in today's Toronto Globe & Mail about the two-way value of masks. The writer is, "a retired public health specialist and epidemiologist... [with] more than 30 years of experience, including 23 with the Public Health Agency of Canada, where he actively participated in previous outbreaks of SARS, H5N1, H1N1 and H7N9." "Masks protect the wearer, too - and lower our risk for contracting COVID-19" I, for one, have been surprised the dialog that's emerged over the past few weeks to the effect that masks have value only for protecting others. I ask myself, 'When I'm wearing a mask while I'm sandblasting or spray-painting, am I really doing that because I'm trying to protect someone else?'
  3. Thanks. I think I get it now. Results look good. I like your resourcefulness. I wonder if a little heat would help the vinyl to relax and let the wrinkles/waves settle out a bit? If you decide to try this, the upholsterer's secret is to use steam rather than hot air. A heat gun will probably destroy the visor and even a hair dryer can cause harm to thin vinyl if you're not careful. Hand-held steamers only cost $25 or so.
  4. Very nice work. A few questions for you on 'technique': Why did you decide it was necessary to glue the new foam in place? It looks like it would have stayed in place w/o the need for glue. Did you really manage to bring the two seams together perfectly, first time, or did it take a few tries to get it right? If so, how did that work out? That Gorilla tape sounds pretty unforgiving. The picture where you're just bringing the top and bottom edges together makes me wonder how you managed to push the tape back into visor cavity without getting it wrinkled and/or making a mess (which you clearly didn't). How was this accomplished? What is this 'scalpel' thing that you used? Hobby knife, or actual medical scalpel? Overall, I'm concerned that the tape joint is going to give up over time, esp. right at the seam and esp. when exposed to summer heat. I guess only time will tell.
  5. What about the top insulators for the suspension struts? Have these become NLA? FWIW, I've often wondered just how much these insulators affect ride quality and cabin (road) noise levels and whether 50 years of aging affects the resilience of the rubber core to the point where they're worth replacing. I know that lesser parts on the car made of rubber tend to become rock-hard with age and there's always lots of chatter about the latest idea for a chemical treatment to soften them up. Another thing that nags at me is whether new-old-stock rubber parts of this type suffer from the same aging effects simply by sitting on the shelf for the same period of time as the ones that have been out on the road. I guess the only way to gauge the importance of the strut insulators would be by doing back-to-back measurements on the same vehicle and road after swapping out the old insulators for a set of 'new' ones. That's probably never going to happen within our small community of Datsun Z owners, but I wonder whether anyone has ever done this kind of comparison test with some other vehicle?
  6. Yes, of course. They say that memory is the second thing to go I'll update the table. And a repro of the lid (less hardware) is now being offered by Steve at www.240zrubberparts.com It's the ashtray that remains NLA. Complicated shape to reproduce. A mold would be difficult. 3D printing may be the only route.
  7. Mike at Banzai Motorworks (Marlboro, MD) has offered fully-trimmed door cards for many years (1970 - 73 models). Website shows them currently priced at $305/pair and available in black, red, white or butterscotch. Includes the molded-in chrome trim strip. Mike's products are usually highly faithful to the originals, so I expect that these will be accurate and high-quality. www.zzxdatsun.com/catSoftTrim.php Charlie Osborne at Zedd Findings (Kingston, ON, Canada) has,, likewise, offered fully-trimmed door cards for many years, although his products are restricted to the 280ZX niche market. http://www.datsunzparts.com/doorpanels.html There may very well be other vendors who offer similar products, or products for different model years.
  8. Namerow


    Can't help but thinking about what happened to the doctor in China who called his government out over its failure to confront reality.
  9. Summary of what we've heard so far... Part Category Suggested by Suggester’s Comments Diff Front Mount (insulator) – ‘early’ type (PN 55415 E4102) Drivetrain Namerow No convenient workarounds that preserve originality of ‘early’ driveline layout. Hatch Glass Glass S30Driver Getting difficult to find in acceptable to pristine condition. Side Window Glass Glass S30Driver Getting difficult to find in acceptable to pristine condition. Carpet underlay pieces, cut-to-shape from OE-spec jute material Floor Coverings Gav240z Correct material not readily available and not pre-cut Sound deadener pieces (cabin side of firewall) Floor Coverings Gav240z Correct material not readily available and not pre-cut Carpets in correct, loop-style Floor Coverings Gav240z Carpets in correct material not readily available Rear quarter panels Body Panels Gav240z Closest available is Tabco’s partial patch panel Roof panel Body Panels Gav240z Required to fix cars cut for sunroof. Re-pop panel not available. Rear valence panel (aka rear ‘apron’ / ‘roll’ panel) Body Panels Gav240z Available re-pops fit OK but are not accurate in certain details. Ashtray – ‘early’ type Interior Gav240z ‘fragile’ Center console – ‘early’ type Interior Mike Fuse box cover plate – ‘early’ type Interior Mike ‘Nismo’ fuel pump mounting bracket Body Parts Mike Not an OE part, but…
  10. Parasol Paints in Toronto, Canada (www.parasolinc.com) will custom-mix a vinyl paint to perfectly match your color. Send them a small sample of vinyl from the underside of a seat or cut from the back hem of a trim panel. A 1/2-inch square will do. You'll need 1 qt. to do the dash and centre console (estimated cost of US$100/qt, shipping extra). I had them mix up two quarts the match my butterscotch seats (sourced from Banzai). The color match was spot on, the product applied very nicely, and it has held up very well over the years (no lifting or peeling). Parasol's vinyl paint is applied with a standard-issue HVLP spray gun. It's water-based and the gun cleans up easily, provided that you do this right after you finish spraying). You'll need to apply at least 3 medium coats to cover a black surface with a light brown paint. Regardless of whose vinyl paint you end up using, you will need to be relentless in your prep work. All traces of silicone (ArmorAll, etc) need to be removed or else you will get major 'fish-eye' when you try to apply the paint (and you can't just wipe the crazed vinyl paint off and start over again). SEM offers a pair of cleaning products for a two-step process. Effective (if used properly), but not cheap. Parasol offers their own line of cleaners.
  11. My 70 Z is a US car originally from Colorado (VIN in the 003500's) and it has the plastic 'clamshell' wiper motor cover. It came to Canada late in its life, so unlikely that the motor and cover were replaced with a 'Canadian-market' item. I think that this design was replaced by the bag for a few reasons: easier installation into the cowl cavity during vehicle assembly better protection of the motor from rain/snow less expensive to produce
  12. Thanks for spotting this. You're right. I've gone back and edited the captions for photos #2 and #3. The early-design mount is identified by the non-rectangular shape of its outer plate. Sorry for the mix-up.
  13. If that's an early-style diff mount and still in as-new condition, it's worth $$$ . But if it's, "correct for my car 2-72", then it's the new style mount and can be safely left laying around in your garage.
  14. Is that a roof panel I see on one of those racks? If it is, and if you don't mind the climb, it would be interesting to get a thickness measurement off that piece. I can't see it being less than 0.8mm, but it would be nice to know for sure. Hard to get this measurement off an intact car, unless it's been cut for a sunroof. Not urgent, but maybe when you better access develops.
  15. After 12 or 13 beers with the boys at the local and then a couple of shots for the road, it probably seemed like the right thing to do.
  16. So: Two sets of well-executed/well-documented measurements with different results. They aren't quite apples and apples, though. CanTechZ has measured Series 1 front/rear fenders and floors and gets a pretty consistent 0.8mm result.. ConverTT has measured Series 2 door skins and gets an equally consistent result of 1.0mm. Others have reported 0.032" >> 0.8mm) for a couple of other panels : jfa.series1 for the front inner fender apron (i.e. engine compartment side wall), and me for my Series 1 front valence panel. I have a theory (untested and unproven so far)... ConverTT's photo of his Series 2 door where the outer skin has been cut off provides a great view of the side impact bar (and I use that term with some reservatyion when it comes to the piece used in the S30's doors ). As near as I can tell, that Series 2 impact bar looks exactly the same as the ones in the doors of my Series 1 (SN in the 3500's). And yet, it was always my understanding that those side impact bars weren't part of the early cars. Or maybe that was only the case for the early early cars? Or maybe my car is wearing replacement doors from a Series 2? Note that the online Parts Manual shows a change in part numbers for the two doors as of October 1971... although that doesn't really explain whether anything changed in the design. My theory, then: Is it possible that Nissan neither added nor changed the size of the side impact bars, but instead simply increased the thickness of both the outer door skins (and maybe the bars, too) from 0.8mm to 1.0mm? There would be a certain logic to this, because Nissan probably could have left their tooling unchanged and just changed the thickness of the panel stock. @ConVerTT Can you please take some measurements on a rear quarter at the opening for the side marker light? @CanTechZ Can you please take a measurement on one (or both) of your doors? Say, at the opening for the door handle? failing that, maybe on the lip the mounts the upper chrome moulding? If time permits, I'll do the same later with the doors on my car later today (I want to make a start on my income tax return this afternoon ).
  17. A few of the well-known Z-car parts suppliers offer a rear valence panel that might meet your needs. However, I recall reading recently that the existing replacement panels aren't 100% accurate in certain details (e.g. shape of the cutout for the exhaust tip). Maybe that's what you're alluding to when you say that the panel isn't available?
  18. That cowl area looks remarkably clean! Lucky for you because all reports indicate that it's a really challenging area to repair. Your #1 photo is a nice reference guide for the shape of the foam panels that were added by Nissan as a running design change -- I believe in response to problems with the panel buckling if it was leaned on too hard (service techs, owners, bystanders) or, more likely, if it was stepped on (shippers). The on-line parts manual doesn't really provide any clues about the date when the wiper motor cover was replaced with the bag. Perhaps when the wiper motor was upgraded for a faster sweep rate in January 1971?
  19. No, you're not crazy (although we should perhaps let your wife comment on this ). The answer, I think, lies in the fact that there is also a difference between the 'old' vs. 'new' designs for the diff's front crossmember. The locations for the bolt holes changed. I have never seen anyone produce a proper sketch in plan or elevation view that makes the differences in all of the bolt hole and mount stud locations obvious (and I'm not about to try). However, I have never heard anyone come up with an easy fix for replacing the early-style front diff mount (and don't forget that this issue has been in play now for about 40 years). According to my notes, here's what needs to be replaced in order to 'fix' things so that the newer-style mount can be used: · Diff Front Crossmember · Diff Arrester Belt Brackets (lhs & rhs), bolts, and sleeves (the design of the belt itself was not changed) · Moustache Bar · Suspension Lower Transverse Crossmember (new design was dished and bowed outwards towards the rear so as to clear the rear of the diff case) · Driveshaft (the S2 driveshaft is 20mm longer) · Moustache Bar Rubber Bushings, sleeves & hardware (might not be mandatory, but the PN’s certainly changed)
  20. I thought that our CZCC members might like to contribute their thoughts here. Who knows? We might inspire someone out there to start making some of these items. My nomination would be: Differential Mount Insulator for the early-design cars with angled rear halfshafts (Nissan PN 55415 E4102) This part was used up until 71-06, so it was installed on about 30,000 Z's. If 5% of those cars are still in running or restorable condition, that would mean there's a ready market for perhaps 1,000 of these early-style diff mounts. To the best of my knowledge, there's no way that any of the later-style mounts can be modified to fit. Typical owner solutions seem to be either: replace all of the diff carrier pieces with conveniently-available, newer-design parts (expensive, and not correct for a proper restoration) ignore it and pretend that running with a worn-out original mount isn't a problem Given that the metal parts are usually quite salvageable, perhaps all that's required to restore the mount is for someone to reproduce the rubber core. With a new core, it would be a fairly simple matter to burn out the worn-out original, clean up the metal, and then glue a new core (should be fine, given that the bonding area is big and the joint wouldn't experience any shear loads -- just compression/tension). Early-style mount on the top Early-style mount on the left (apologies for not being able to provide photo credits)
  21. Namerow


    Seeing the curve starting to flatten is all very nice, but it really only addresses the issue of exceeding the healthcare system being overwhelmed. When we start to go down the backside of the curve, what then? Here in Canada, the number of reported cases stands at roughly 80 per 100,000. That's less than 1/10th of one percent. Even if that number is low by a factor of 10 (and it may very well be), it means that 99% of the population has not yet been infected and therefore lacks immunity. I see no reason to believe that American figures will prove much different. If we/you decide to just, 'Let 'er rip' (see Donald Trump playbook), that curve is going to un-flatten in a hurry. No easy answers here.
  22. Namerow


    The last of those three shoe styles is worrisome.
  23. Meticulous measurements, backed up by supporting info re panel originality and paint application, so pretty hard to argue with. I am inclined to agree, then, with your conclusion that the factory panels appear to have been made from 0.8mm sheet. That sits right in the middle of the spec range for 22-gauge. How do we reconcile this with @ConVerTT's values of 20-gauge for the door skins?
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