Mike

Never know what will happen with that car. He hasn't called and I have no confirmation that he'll pick it up. He does have some money down on it. So, he's got first shot at it.

Yep, the site changed again. At least you'll never get bored coming to this place. Something new to see all the time. Anyway, do you like the new look? We went for a blend of the original XP theme along with the features of a tab-style theme. The tabs at the top make it much easier to navigate. And, in fact, this new look loads faster than our old look. Let us know what you think. Your vote is anonymous.

Let's also not forget the fact that we all come from different parts of the world. Along with this comes different social systems, communication etiquette, transportation systems, etc... And, let's not forget that our Z's are different. Don't get pissed at each other because of these differences. After reading the message thread myself, I only see a lot of useful information within the posts. Sure, there was some uncalled-for personall slamming, but, that's the stuff we need to avoid. So, back to it... eh? :tapemouth

Guys, this isn't getting anywhere. Should I start deleting members and pissing everyone off? Nope. You're all adults. Deal with it like you would in real life. Getting pissed at each other probably isn't the best solution.

Guys, cut the flamage. I like a nice debate, but, keep it Z related... thanks. No harm done.

This sounds like an ad to me. Carguyinok, are you an investor or owner of dri-wash?

Did you have a buyer for this?

Hi all, I sold my '75 280z, but, I'm keeping the engine (totally blown) and EFI. I'm thinking about using it as a possible solution for my '71 240z project. But, I really don't know what I should remove. Anyone have experience moving EFI from one car to another?

Here's a picture from the parking lot. It was taken while all the women were inside the center holding their annual meeting.

Sorry, this car has been sold.

Sell the 350z.

Posted to the mailing list by Carl Beck: Hi Gang: In my earlier Post - I referred to a "#1, #2 and #3 car"... several people ask exactly what that meant. So I thought I'd Post this information again. "The Old Cars Price Guide" is just one of several value guides published in the Classic, Collectible and Special Interest market. The values given are just "guides".. not absolute values and they are based on data collected at public auctions and reported from speciality dealers as well as experts for the various marquees. The National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA) also publishes price guides - their "Cars of Particular Interest" (CPI) book covers Classic, Collectible and Special Interest Automobiles. Automobile Dealers that belong to NADA fill out sales forms for every car they sell and report the sales data to NADA - who in turn publish the data in their value guides. At any point in time - any of these guides can be badly out of date for any particular marque. Usually the keep the most popular marquees (Ford, Chevy, Ferrari etc) pretty current because lots of them are bought/sold at the monthly auctions and because most of the people buying their price guides buy/sell those cars. For many years the values of Datsun 240-Z's lagged the market prices - within the last two years however the guides seem to have been catching up with the actual market (no doubt Nissan's Vintage Z Program helped in that regard). Below are the quality grade/ranking/evaluations - definitions. found in the Old Cars Price Guide - and I put the "values" from my earlier Post on this subject beside them in brackets. Also note that these value guides apply ONLY to Pure Stock/Original examples. Old Cars Price Guide says: #1 EXCELLENT ($16K to $18K) - Restored to current maximum professional standards of quality in every area, or perfect original with components operating and appearing as new. A 95+ point show car that is not driven. In national show judging a car in #1 condition is likely to win top honors in it's class. In a sense it has ceased to be an automobile and has become an object of art. It is transported to shows in an enclosed trailer, and, when not being shown it is stored in a climate controlled facility. It is not driven. There are very few #1 cars. #2 FINE: ($12.5K to $14.5K) - Well-restored, or a combination of superior restoration and excellent original. Also an extremely well maintained original showing very minimal wear. Except for the very closest of inspection a #2 vehicle may appear as a #1. The #2 vehicle will take the top award in many judged shows, except when squared off against a #1 example in its own class. It may also be driven 800 - 1,000 miles each year to shows, on tours, and simply for pleasure. #3 - Very Good: ($7.5 to $8.5K) Completely operable original or "older restoration" showing wear. Also, a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus combinations of well-done restoration and good operable components; or a partially restored car with all parts necessary to complete it and/or valuable NOS parts. This is a 20 footer - that is, from 20 feet away it may look perfect. But as we approach it, we begin to notice that the paint may be getting a little thin in spots from frequent washing and polishing. Looking inside we might detect some wear on the drivers seat, foot pedals, and carpet. The chrome trim while still quite presentable, may have lost the sharp mirror like reflective quality it had when new. All systems and equipment on the car are in good operating order. In general, most of the vehicles seen at car shows are #3's..... #4 Good: ($4.5K) - A driveable vehicle needing no or only minor work to be functional. Also, a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. All components may need restoration to be excellent, the car is mostly usable "as is". This is a driver - It may be in the process of restoration or it owner may have big plans, but even from 20 feet away, there is no doubt that it needs a lot of help.. #5 Restorable ($2.5K to $3.5K) - Needs complete restoration of body, chassis, and interior. May or may not be running, but isn't weathered, wrecked, and/or stripped to the point of being useful only for parts. This car needs everything. It may not be operable, but it is essentially all there and has only minor surface rust, if any rust at all. While presenting a real challenge to the restorer, it won;t have him doing a lot of chasing for missing parts. #6 Parts Car - May or may not be running, but is weathered, wrecked, and/or stripped to the point of being useful primarily for parts. == = = = = = = = = end OCPG quote = = = = = = = = = = Also keep in mind that these guides are written mostly for "Collectors" and "Restorers" so they judge cars very critically. If there is any question in your mind which category a car may fall into - it automatically falls into the next lower classification. Also keep in mind that supply and demand play a huge role in valuations - people will pay over the value guides as supplies dry up, if there are limited numbers of cars in their area of the country etc. Let's face it - the most expensive 240-Z's are still cheap relative to todays pricing on cars - so a grand or three one way or the other won't stop the world. FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA IZCC #260 http://ZHome.com 69, 70, 71, 72, 72 & 73 BRE Z ------------------------------------ Internet 240z Club - http://www.240z.org To unsubscribe: http://www.240z.org/mailman/listinfo/list

Naw, there are two threads about this topic. This thread is from the poll itself. The other thread was in the news section. Sorry about the confusion. Here's the link to the other thread with more comments: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4231

So, do I assume that you can no longer purchase wiring harnesses from Nissan? That's one of my next steps in the restoration of my '71.

Gav, you hit the nail on the head! Do aussies really think of that slang the same way we think of our rednecks? There are a lot of really good redneck jokes, thou. [m]

I assume you're the one on the right? (I figured this becuase your signature image shows a guy with a black suit with a green stripe in the front)

Just don't ask an Aussie to say the word Mach. I still like the way we say it much better.... MAWK. I'm flying MAWK five in my 2-billion dollar jet. Aussies say MACK. Just doesn't sound impressive enough to me. There's a ton of different ways we pronounce the same words. I had a lot of fun for the 2-months I was in Aus. Not sure why, but, catching on to the dialect was very easy for me. I noticed that a lot of my slang was in use. Got a cool book called Aussie Slang when I was there. Should pull it out and start makin some shielas out of these mates.

What is it about these Australians? They always think THIER way is the correct way? Let's not forget that Australia was originally a place where convicts were sent after they were booted out.... I think you're still required to be a convict before you're allowed in the country. PS: I love everything about Australia. No worries, my opinions aren't much chop. Friggin Ockers... [m] Oh yea, I'm starting to say ZED more often now!

Courtesy of Carl Beck: About the R200 Differentials: The R200 has a 200mm ring gear hence the designation (likewise the R180 has a 180mm ring gear). Nissan used this same differential although modified over time, in the Z Cars from 1975 through 1996. However some changes made to them during that period were minor and others of a more major nature. The R200 of the first and second generation Z Cars (280Z/280ZX) were for the most part the same and are therefore interchangeable on a direct bolt in basis. The R200 of the third generation Z's (84-89 300ZX) are also basically the same, but do have major differences that must be addressed, prior to retro fitting them to the earlier generations of Z Cars. The side output shafts (stub axles) have to be swapped with those of an R200 from the first or second generation cars. What Is Different Among / Between The R200's ? Ring Gear Bolts: The 84 to 89 R200's used a ring gear bolted to the carrier with 12mm bolts vs. the 75-83 R200's which used 10mm bolts for that purpose. Thus the ring and pinion sets are not interchangeable between the two. Stub Axles with Bolt on Flanges, CV Joints and Driveshaft Flanges: Some of the R200's use stub axles (stub axles come out the side of the differential carrier) with bolt on flanges, which attach to the halfshafts (which Nissan calls driveshafts - side) that use universal joints. Some R200's use stub axles that are attached to CV Joints. You can pop the stub axles out of the differential carrier in each of these and swap them. About Swapping-out The R180 In The 240Z - For An R200 LSD From A 300ZX. You need the same mounting hardware described above. Plus you have to change the flanges and/or drive shaft input yoke. The R200's used in the 84-89 300ZX Turbo were equipped with Clutch Type Limited Slip Differential Units. These rear end's are set up to run with CV joints. So to install one in your 240Z you have to remove the CV joint type stub axle and replace it with the stub axles with flanges that will match the flanges on your half shafts (what Nissan calls a "drive shaft -side" - we usually refer to as "half shafts"). This is a pull out/snap in operation. The input flange is another story however. You either have to change your drive shaft yoke to match the input shaft on the differential, or you have to change the input shaft on the differential to match the yoke on your stock drive shaft. Most people suggest that this is a job for a professional rear end shop. Because the internal parts to the rear end have to be removed and then reinstalled. (not something you want to mess up on). -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What Gear Ratio Is In This Differential? You do NOT have to count the teeth. Just turn the ring gear until you see two numbers separated by a slash ( / ) or colon ( : ). Simply divide the larger number by the smaller number and (tah dah!) you will have your final drive ratio. If you can't remove the rear cover - then you have to turn the wheels and count the driveshaft turns to determine the rear gear ratio. Use this method. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- R200 - 3.9 gear sets: FYI, THE 3.9 (R200 ONLY) RATIO WAS OEM IN THE 2+2 M/T (FROM 8/79) AND 2-SEATER M/T 'J' MODEL (FROM 8/79). YOU CAN VERIFY A 'J' MODEL BY LOOKING AT THE MODEL ID #. AFTER THE "S130" THERE WILL BE THE LETTER "J". THE 280ZX MODELS EQUIPPED WITH AN R180 DIFF HAD EITHER 3.364 OR 3.545 GEARING. See Rear End Ratio Chart -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Speedo Gears: 3.3?? : Yellow 3.545 : Black 3.7 : Blue 3.9 : White The following rear gear ratios were only available from Nissan Competition Dept. - not OE in any models sold in the US 4.11 : Red 4.375 : Purple?

You can't buy those rubber clamps anymore.

Hi all, 2ManyZs just had some tragic news about his mother. She is sick and in the hospital at this moment. Let's all take some time to send him our warmest regards. You can either send him a private message, email, or just reply to this message. Hang in there Keith, and we all hope your mom comes out of this with flying colors! -- Mike