olzed

Silly question, but are you turning the adjuster for the rear brakes the right way. If its all the way out you should not be able to turn the drum. Just another thought, perhaps the brake shoes are not the correct ones. Do they look to be the same diameter as the origionals. Another thought. Can you mesure the ID of the replacement brake drum. It may be way oversize, or it may be cracked. It could then expand as you applied the brakes.

Remove the grease nipples and see how it goes.

I have all the parts thanks busted240. I found another vid from the guy with the Model A running, and he goes into a lot more detail about greasing the moving parts etc, so should be some help. Thanks Blue. Yes thats the vid.

Those comments came from posts pertaining to my subject. Your comments did not.

Some remarks are best ignored is that what you are saying. Perhaps you are correct.:classic:

Neither of your posts has anything to do with making a cutaway running L6. What I am after is some helpful input on modifying the L6 to run in a cutaway state. Not a history lesson on the Z.

Ha. That made my day. I like your ideas.:bulb: What size flywheel do you think Sarah. Four feet? I doubt the starter would spin it. Brian.

'You are right Blue. Three cylinders sounds the way to go. Cut the head in half and blank the end. Cut the rocker cover in half and blank the end to stop oil splash I was thinking of running with no water for short periods . Would that work? And very light valve springs on the unused valves, so there is not the tension on the cams, and partially block oilways to these to stop oil spray. I guess it's a case of make it up as I go, to a certain extent. One SU carb feeding three cylinders should work OK. Brian

The show is to be outdoors so fumes should not be an issue. To have a straight six chuffing under its own power alongside some S30s,was to, hopefully, create some interest for the public. Pictures definately. Brian.

Hi guys. I'm thinking of making a running cutaway L6 engine for a display. Carbs should be the simplest approach, and running on a couple of cylinders, with the rest exposed. Oiling and cooling would have to be addressed, but if it only ran for a few minutes at a time cooling should'nt be an issue. Has anyone done this before with an L6? Here is a guy on youtube running a Ford model A engine like that. Can anyone offer advice on this. Is it feasible? Would it create interest at a car show? Brian.

If I were a little closer I would love for you to refurb mine Dave. Not sure I want your treatment with the thread chaser though. Brian.

Just change the oil and drive it -- I bought my 240 12 Years ago. Oil looked like tar. Changed of oil and filters every 1000ml or so and she's good.

I would start by fitting a new master cylinder.

Muffle the thing better, and try to get on with neighbors.

If your car runs better with the choke on a little, it would suggest to me it is running a bit lean, and that could be your problem. Richen each carb quater turn and see how she runs. Yes, the engine will run faster at idle with the choke on.

Do you have oil in the carb dampers?. Silly question, but you never know. Does running with the chokes part on help at all.?

With my 72 I had a similar problem. The pressure plate was stuffed. Replaced that and she's fine for ten years now. Have you checked the fluid level? As others have said, check the easy stuff first. Pedal height, master and slave cylinders.

Hang in there buddy. Good to hear you working on a project with your son. Sorry I can't help you, but my car has carbs. Good luck.

People are lacking in basic communication skills these days. Probably more the fault of your education system than the poor guy. I know it's a fault with our system. We need to have a little more tolerance and patience. It's not too hard to understand from his posts, the message he is trying to convey. The poor guy has owned his car a month and is trying to get it to run well. Give him a break. I realise he comes across as being impatient, but he sounds at the end of his tether with this problem.

Love that Healey!!!!!!!!!

You may be turning the jamb nuts the wrong way. Its not hard to become confused when under the car. The right side has a conventional right hand thread.The left side or your drivers side has a left hand thread. You may be able to loosen them. Place a heavy block of steel e.g. an axe head or a large hammer behind the area adjacant to the jamb nut, then give a few good blows with another hammer. Then give the nut a couple of blows in a similar fashion. Don't hit withought a weight behind the area, as you may do some damage to the rack.

Door interior trim appears crumpled. Door weather seal rubber coming loose .

Are you saying you can't remove the ball joint?. Sometimes they can be very tight in the taper, and may require a press to remove them.

This sounds to me llike lack of fuel, but you say you have plenty of fuel. How have you checked that? If the car has sat for a while the tank could be full of crud.