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Hi DJ. Does your new toy smoke on the overun, like when you accelerate after coasting down hill. Could be valve guide seals, which in an engine of that mileage will surely need replacing. If the engine is running strong otherwise, then this could well be the reason for using oil. Valve guide seals can be replaced withought removing the head. I replaced mine and went from 1.5 litres per 1000km to virtually zilch.

I had a leak that was difficult to pinpoint. Turned out to be the gasket in the front cover was weeping water into the timing area.

I have a stock 72, and fitted front and rear sway bars off a J.D.M 260 2+2 , along with shortened 260 springs, and Koni's. The 240's came down here with no rear sway bar, but the holes are at the rear of the body for the fitment of a sway bar. It bolted straight on with no fuss. The front 260 bar is a little thicker than the stock 240 , and the whole setup feels good, although I don't race the car. I can't remember the thickness of either bar, and the car is in the paint shop at the moment so can't measure.

Sounds like a clutch problem. Does the car want to creep when it's in gear with your foot on the clutch?

Strut bars join the top of the suspension towers together, either in the engine bay or in the hatch area, or both. They are fitted to take away suspension tower flex and to improve handling. Your car should have a front sway bar already, but you can fit a larger one. A rear one can be fitted as well. They join left and right side suspension together under the car, by a spring steel bar, to help control the sway you get when cornering.

Head gasket?

Good to see you have an alluminium slave. The last one I bought here was cast iron of some sort.

A different speedo gear is going to make no difference to what the tach reads at idle. You should only need a different speedo cable gear if you have changed diff ratios or radically changed tyre size,

They are known for that. Does it smell also like exhaust fumes.? Could be sucking fumes around the rear hatch rubbers, or numerous other places, generally at the rear.

I can well understand bpilati being more than slightly annoyed over this. Three years should be time enough to get it right.

Hey, Nice find. The same colour as my right hand drive 72. Look after it, and enjoy it.

The black looking fluid is most likely caused by rust in the slave cylinder.

What does the engine sound like when the car is stationary. Does it rev freely and smoothley ?

The valve can't fall down unless the collets/keepers are removed.

Sounds sweet, and goes well.

Is that a J.D.M. 280 ZX. 2+2? Looks like a Z to me.

Good result.

There is water getting into the oil somewhere. Have you changed the oil recently. Is there oily film in the radiator. Are there air bubbles in the radiator with the engine running.

Another fuel rail would be the way to go, but before you do that, if you squeeze the return line the other way you might be able to open the orifice again. It may give an indication if that is your problem,

Good grief. That should be only hand tight.

Does it shift easily with the engine off?

You know what is so cool with this. You did it all. Well done.

Sounds to me as though it is getting way too much fuel. Problem with the carb I would say. Or I wonder if the brake booster is faulty--how do the brakes feel, do you have to stand on the pedal to make the car slow?

You both have good taste in bikes. I used to do a bit of touring with a group back in the mid eighties.

Some very nice bike roads there. Beautiful country. And the oil pump timing looks correct as well. Any more pictures of the Guzzi?