steve91tt

I spent the last couple of evenings installing a new set of MSA leather seat covers and foam. The old seats weren't in bad condition but I'm switching to a black interior so the butterscotch seats covers had to go. Overall, a very easy install. Everything fit straight out of the box. The new foams are definitely more firm than the old. I dropped the seat down by taking all of the spacers out from beneath the tracks but I still sit much higher in the car. I am 6'3" so I'm hoping that the foams will settle in a some and give me a bit more head room.

me too.

I got the front mats from C&H tonight. The material looks very close to the original so I thought I would take a couple of closeups to compare. close up of 40 year old carpet... Closeup of C&H carpet The loops look a tiny bit larger on the old carpet but the difference is not as big as it appears in the photo as I was a little closer to the old carpet when I took the picture. The new carpet is shorter and does not have the fastener holes but I don't think anyone who did not own a 240Z would notice the difference. Overall I am happy with the purchase.

Great tip! Thanks.

Summer time is coming and I intend to continue daily driving my 240Z so I have been working to make the cabin livable in the summer heat. So far... 1. Window tint 2. New AC installed 3. dynomat + new carpet padding 4. Honda blower motor Today's project was to minimize the internal heat generated by the muffler. The guy that bent up my exhaust did a great job of tucking the muffler up under the bumper but as a result the carpet in the driver's side back corner gets very hot. So I wrapped it with 2" wide exhaust wrap. Very easy, inexpensive modification and you can't see it from the back of the car at all. Hopefully it will cut the heat down a bit and be durable enough to take the abuse of being back there. Only time will tell.

I prefer old Canadian plates. But I'm an old Canadian so YMMV. :classic:

I'm in the market for a set of bumpers. I know there are differences in the design from year to year. Do you know if these would fit on a 1973 240Z without modification?

I use the adhesive that came with the MSA headliner. It is labeled "1081 spray trim adhesive" made by V&S. It is a contact adhesive with a very nice spray pattern. Works nicely.

One more observation...the line going from the tank (formerly vapor tank) to the flow guide valve is full of fuel. I assume this is a problem but with the vapor tank bypassed I don't see how this would not happen with a full tank of fuel.:disappoin Anyone done the bypass ever noticed fuel in the guide valve line?

I have been troubleshooting a fuel problem for a few weeks now... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38001 It's been an intermittent problem and I thought it was heat related but now I think it has to do with how much gas is in my tank. The car has been running perfectly all week until I filled up on the way home from work today. At the first light after I filled up it died. The car started again quite easily and I was able to make it home by giving it some gas at the lights to keep the RPM's up. It now occurs to me that each time this has happened it has been right after a fill up and the problem goes away after a burn a couple of gallons. I did a search and could find no reference to stalling or poor idle with a full tank. Anyone else ever experienced this? Background: 1. Clean tank 2. New RX7 fuel electric fuel pump with mechanical pump still installed 3. New fuel filters. 4. New Ztherapy carbs 5. All new rubber fuel lines 6. Metal lines recently blown down with air 7. New fuel filler neck and cap 8. Fuel vapor tank bypassed as per the following post... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19034&highlight=fuel+vent

I never did make the web site work. I gave them a call at the number above. They were happy to answer all my questions.

Yep, that's included on the driver's side.

Thanks for the feedback. I just got off the phone with C&H. They seem very knowledgeable. I ordered the loop floor mat with surged edging and rubber backing. $75.

Do you have a link to Chester & Herod? Their website seems to just be a link farm or some type. Are they still in business?

I got them new from the following site for $43 each. http://www.globalkiaparts.com/ Not sure if they will ship to Canada.

Great news on the hatch! I will order another KIA strip today.

Sounds like you have got the terminals clean but for future reference the continuity test will not show a dirty lead as the crud on the posts generally lets enough current through to fool the meter but not enough to turn over the engine. High current load applications like a starter can be hard to diagnose.

Did you get the "loop" or "cut pile"?

Ooops! I meant that I borrowed a bunch of old plates from my buddy down the street who just moved.

Could it be a dirty battery terminal? Sometimes they look clean but there is enough oxidation between the post and the lead to cause the symptoms you describe if you are reading voltage with you multimeter from the posts.

If it is a bad battery you may be able to jump start it to get you to autozone for a battery test/new battery. Good luck!

My guess is a bad battery. Sometimes they can show a 12v surface charge but have no ability to supply the amps to run the car.

If you decide to replace the electric fuel pump look at going with one out of a gen1 RX7. Lots of folks around here are running them in their z's (including me). They are considerably quieter than most after-market pumps. I got mine new off of e-bay for $70. Here is a link... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220470891294&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_1359wt_935

That's what I was afraid of. I think I will just order the block off plate and deal with it next weekend. Thanks for the feedback everyone.:classic:

I am still troubleshooting my fuel system. History in the following post... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37722 I have a clean tank, new filters and I blew down the fuel lines. The car runs great 95% of the time but now and again it tries to die when idling. I pulled the return line (after the restriction orifice) and ran it into a gas can. I get lots of fuel flow from the return line but it spits and pops like I would expect it to look if the gas was boiling in the line. I'm running out of things to test but I thought I would try to take the mechanical pump out of the equation in case a blockage in the pump is causing an intermittent problem. Is it possible to bypass the mechanical pump and run the car on the electric pump alone? I assume the car will run fine but I don't have a block off plate so I can't take it off the car and I am worried about burning up the mechanical pump with no gas running through it to provide cooling. Anyone ever tried this?