Zed Head

The L28ET would have a cylinder head temperature sensor, plugged in about right above the starter. Have you checked the harness there? Or do you mean temperature sensor for the gauge? Besides that, who would most likely know, someone with a 72 or someone with a ZX? One more - some of the L28ET harness is left, or some of the 72 harness? Just trying to clarify...

Search Pertronix under username Arne, if you haven't already read it. I looked through your other thread but didn't see a reference to his long thread on a similar issue with the Pertronix setup.

Just saw these today. I picked up the short drive shaft off the 71 and took a look at the 72. The 72 has all of the gauges and a couple of intake manifolds scattered around inside, and what is probably the original L24 engine in the engine bay. The 71 has the speedo and tach left, the taillights (one cracked), a 4 speed and a 280Z L28 engine (sans head). They both have a lot of trim pieces left, the 72 seemed to have a fairly decent drivers seat also. Overall though, pretty trashed. The 72 has an intact sunroof also. Didn't see any broken glass on either, but couldn't gauge quality through the moss. For any one looking for 240Z parts - http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx?Address=97225&Lat=45.506451&Lng=-122.775622&Make=Datsun&Model=280&Distance=200 If you're wondering about a certain part, reply back and I'll see what I can remember.

SteveJ gave a very good set of answers in his post. I just gave a brief one place to look answer. But I think that you might be assuming some things that are incorrect, thereby leading you to look in the wrong places. The voltmeter in your car reads battery voltage all of the time, even with the key off. Voltmeters draw barely any current, even less than the clock, so it doesn't drain the battery. You didn't really say that the problem was intermittent in your first post and it's not really clear what "the problem" is, besides having a battery that reads 8 volts sometimes. Assuming that the voltmeter is reasonably accurate, when it reads 8, it's telling you that there's a huge draw on the battery. Essentially a short circuit. That's not good. But, on the other hand, the voltmeters are usually inaccurate on these cars after 30+ years. Even so, if its' dropping to 8 occasionally, you probably have a loose wire somewhere shorting to ground. Odds are it's either the alternator charging wire or the main big battery positive cable, because any other wire would melt with that big of a draw on it. I would check those big wires for breaks or rubbing on the body first, and soon. No reason for the coil to be energized on Acc. It's only energized at On/Run and Start. Not clear what you mean by "put a load on it" and the voltmeter drops to zero. Trying to Start? Headlights on? If you had a cheap volt/ohm meter you could test all of your fusible links and a bunch of circuits for power. Even a cheapie will save you a lot of time and money. Anyway, there's a few more places to look, and some possibilities.

Do you mean no luck on the 5th gear synchro or no luck on any of the synchros for the 5 speed transmission? And what information did you get give drivetrain.com? If you told them you needed parts for a 240Z 5 speed, then they probably wouldn't have the parts, because the 240Z five speed is relatively rare, I believe, and unusual. You still haven't confirmed what you have. Also, drivetrain.com has the wrong numbers on their web site. The FS5W71B is the right number for most of what they call an A or a C transmission. I have messaged them about it, even copied pictures from the FSMs but it's probably too small of a market to worry about. The 71B 4 and 5 speeds and many of the 71C 5 speeds all use the same 1 - 4 "brass" synchros. 5th is the odd ball synchro but doesn't usually take a lot of abuse anyway. I have not seen a single case of someone saying that they ordered a rebuild kit, from anyone, and got all of the right parts. I have seen several cases of getting some of the parts and a bunch of extra wrong parts. zspecialties seems to have some insights and offers some rebuild kits. They could probably help you out. Browse though these two pages, read the comments on the synchros - http://www.datsunstore.com/index.php/cName/transmission-4-manual-shift-4 EDIT! - Maybe even better - search jmortensen and Swepco 201. You might be able to avoid a rebuild altogether. The transmission fluid can have a huge effect on shifting. I bought some rebuild parts and was going to swap synchros from another transmission but using Swepco 201 and a little ATF has solved what were some bad grinding problems. Now I have $50 worth of odd 5 speed parts that I may never use, (but I'm okay with it).

Why do you feel so strongly about MSA?

Possibly the ignition relay up by the fuse box. The Accessory circuit is powered through it. My relay was hot-wired straight from the ignition switch and my Accessory circuit didn't work until I replaced the relay. The internals of the relay were completely rusted away. It appears to be mounted in a spot that gets a lot of condensation or water when something leaks. Check page BE-6 in the FSM for the location.

Baxter Auto sells the FJ707T as a replacement for the 280Z and ZX injectors. They seem like a good local chain and they've been around for a while. They're on the pricey side (compared to Oreillys anyway) and their web site is pretty hard to use but I would trust their sources if I was buying injectors. Go down to the left on their site and work through the "Replacement Search" dialog and you'll see the FJ707 (used!) and the FJ707T listed. They go for around $53 on the site, $99 list, so your price looks pretty good. http://www.baxterautoparts.com/ Edit - From what I've seen, every manufacturer has a high end and a low end injector. Many also sell "rebuilt" injectors, sometimes for more than the new ones.

I've noticed it and adjusted it, but have not seen the text about the hysteresis prevention. Pretty interesting, thanks for illuminating. Looks like it's a drag or brake on the shaft while the reluctor tooth passes the pickup coil. To make sure that the "slack" is taken up and the pickup doesn't trigger early, maybe. If the rotor bounced ahead the timing could be advanced. Should also keep any play in the shaft pushed to one side, keeping a constant gap between the pickup coil and reluctor teeth. Weird that they used a four tooth reluctor to show the air gap measurement, and a six tooth below that.

Here maybe - http://www.myamishgoods.com/ Sorry if this offends anyone. They do have some cool looking stuff though. Seems odd that they take credit cards, and have a web page.

Pretty sure that the original rubber is not thermoformable. In other words, you can't heat it up and get it to take a new shape. It's what is called a thermoset material. And you can't glue it to the bumper because the 5 mph bumpers are designed to move back and forth on their shocks when bumped. Maybe you can shim the mounting points. Do the pieces have a metal structure inside or just metal mounting hardware? My saggy 76 original pieces don't seem to have a bendable structure inside. RPM, where did you get the replacements? I have not seen them for sale anywhere.

Your ammeter should tell you if the battery is charging or discharging. It should be in the middle of the dial with the key off. The symptoms sound somewhat like a dead battery. An auto parts store can check it for you for free.

Saw this method the other day - Looks promising. Don't try it in the garage.

If you're handy, maybe you can use the car's weight as a spring compressor. Jack the strut up and try to realign the pieces on the way up. Seems like it should work if you can get things aligned.

The actual differences between the various AFM models has been pondered by many people. One thing that the 79 AFM is most likely missing is the fuel pump relay contact switch. If you decide to wire around that and try the 79 AFM on your 77 engine, report back with the results. I'm interested, others might too. What probably matters more is the difference in emissions equipment and other Nissan modifications to the system, from 77 to 79. When you swapped in the 79 engine, did you bring the whole engine over with all of the various switches, distributor and EGR stuff, or did you bolt your 77 stuff on to the 79 engine? If you did the first, you have a 79 engine, if you did the second, you have a 77 engine.

Cool looking products. Did you know that if you use the Search box on your site, the axles don't show up, using Datsun or Nissan as search words. And the adapters only show up if you use Datsun, but don't show if you use Nissan. 240Z doesn't bring up anything, but 300ZX brings up four products. 280z brings up the adapters, as does 280ZX, but nothing else. Not to criticize, just helping future customers get to the product descriptions.

The 79 ZX engine should be almost identical to the 77 Z engine except for having exhaust liners in the head. N47 head on an N42 block vs. N42 on N42. The 79 AFM might work but it's not the correct one for your ECU and might cause more problems. Your idle speed problem should not have been caused by your AFM anyway. Are you sure the AFM is bad? There is a test procedure in the FSM.

Don't forget about the NOS parts...

If he pushes the clutch in when slowing down then it fits my module's symptoms. When mine was dying I could make it go bad by winding the engine up to ~3,000 RPM or greater. Then the tach would start jumping around, and reading a much higher RPM than estimated by road speed and gear. It wouldn't idle well or would just would die if I pushed in the clutch. But it would still go down the road if I stayed in gear with the gas on, tach needle vibrating and reading wrong. If I stopped and let it die it would start right back up and be fine until I revved it over ~3,000 RPM again. Just a few more signs to compare.

I think he's trying to sell the whole car. It would help to list the parts that are on it and the extent of the damage. Can't tell from the pictures. Maybe the whole thing is savable, although it would have a salvage title. There are several accounts, some on this forum, of people replacing the complete tops of their cars, to get rid of a sunroof.

I tend to agree with EScanlon. The insurance company is trying to minimize their costs with an artificial deadline. They should be liable for impound costs, not you. Even one extra day of impound costs ($100) could save you thousands of dollars. Think about waiting a day before agreeing to anything. It's not clear how you could be losing $10,000 if the cargo company is going to pay you the "actual cost" of the car. Is the $10,000 a premium over what you paid for it? You're valuing it at $10,000 + ? I'd still like to know the name of the companies involved.

The centrifugal (centripetal?) advance numbers should be stamped on the weights inside. A picture from the top of the insides would be interesting. There is a spreadsheet out there on this forum somewhere with a listing of the distributor part numbers. Edit - Here's the thread - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?34192-280ZX-Distributor-Advance-Curve-Reference&highlight=distributor+adavnce+timing+curves+numbers Edit #2 - the updated sheet n Post #19 has your second number. Looks like a 1973 240Z with a manual transmission. The weights and vacuum advance can be swapped between bodies though (as you now since you have a re-curved one), so nothing is certain.

What was the name of the shipping company? So that they can be avoided in the future. It seems like a simple lawsuit could get some of your money back. A shipping company that doesn't know how to ship should pay up. Some people think all lawsuits are bad, but this looks like a clear case of incompetence. What's the back story? Overall, payment for damages and the damaged car delivered to your place in MN seems reasonable. Who is twisting your arm to make a decision in a couple of hours?

I'll take an uneducated guess or two.

I think that you mean the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). Easy to check with a fuel pressure gauge. ~36 - 38 psi with the vacuum line off, or engine not running, and in the 28 - 32 psi range at idle, engine running, with everything connected. Insert it between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. You could also have a clogged fuel filter or crud in the gas tank or a bad fuel pump. But the fuel pressure measurement will tell you whether or not to keep looking. Since you're problem is kind of intermittent, you might want to strap the gauge in the engine bay for a few days so that you can check it when the problem happens.