Zed Head

That video is perfect. 9.5 second build-up, action, end.

siteunseen may have inadvertently steered the discussion off-track with Post #2. The question is how get the handle on, not off. Handle in hand, clip in place in its two slots ready to expand as it passes over the nose of the splined crank shaft, press the handle on to the shaft and the clip expands and slides down the shaft, closing up again when it gets to its slot on the shaft, locking the handle in place. The only reason to not be able to do this is either that the clip is not expanding far enough to slide down the shaft, or it's catching in something on its way down, or that the shaft is bottoming out in the handle hole before the clip gets to its slot. zKars is right, this is sounding way more complicated than it is. Put clip on handle, put handle on shaft, press and pop. That's all there is to it.

Might just need a little lubrication. Smear a little bit of oil or grease on the tapered portion of the splined shaft that the clip has to slide over.

They do use salt in the Portland Metro area, along with gravel and sand. Magnesium chloride (a "salt" in chemistry terms, not the common usage). They add a corrosion inhibitor to it because it's worse than sodium chloride for causing corrosion. You can see the stripes on the road when they lay it down the night before they expect some ice. The rain that usually follows though will wash away the salt. But the worst thing about driving around the Portland area after an ice or snow event is the small rocks thrown up from the gravel. It takes a few days for the sweepers to clear the roads and you'll hear them pinging and popping off the car and windshield until they do.

Here's another clue - the stock springs have quite a bit of preload. You would have had to crank the compressor down quite a bit before they could be set free. The Tokico springs barely have any, just enough to fill the space. You can press the top hat on by hand, it you have the weight, if I recall right. I have them on the back of my car, the front is waiting.

I've had a couple of stock spring sets off and they were black with a colored stripe, about one inch wide. I assume the color had some meaning. Red might be Tokico. It's a bright red. I would test a section of paint with some acetone, MEK, or similar and see if the black is soluble. Don't know for sure but the manufacturers probably use a two-part epoxy or urethane, or a powerdercoat, that wouldn't be soluble. If you're lucky the white ID numbers are two-part also. 5022-F and -R are the 280Z Tokico lowering spring numbers. The stock 77 springs jack the back of the car up pretty high. If your springs were stock you would probably notice.

jfa supplied a link in Post #2. The specs are on Planet Bulb's site. I assumed hours, based on other bulb specs, but it might be minutes! That would be a little over a day though, so unlikely. The model is A 72.

Definitely not Z weather in the Portland OR area. This is coming on top of the foot of slightly melted and refrozen snow - ...FREEZING RAIN ADVISORY IN EFFECT FROM 4 AM TO NOON PST MONDAY FOR THE PORTLAND AND VANCOUVER METRO AREA..

If you didn't put a new bend in the spring end for the perch seat then you ended up at the same height with the same number of active coils. You just cut the seat of the spring off. The picture of the cut piece kind of shows that. Easy to miss since "coil" is a fairly generic word.

Could you connect power and give it a test? Or test unpowered to see if is grounded, either directly or through a device (60 ohms is a typical device resistance). If you find power you could remove fuses until it goes away.

Look here at the bottom of the Motorcycle Tank section. There may be other rust removers that can be sprayed also, this is just one description I found. Evapo-Rust rust remover description page Here's the click-through: Evapo-Rust rust remover chassis testimonial I think that you could make a solution of Naval Jelly and paint it on also. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_naval/overview/Loctite-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver.htm

Check out the bid history. Starting price was $500. I think that's what they would have taken for it. People are paying for the name. Edit - actually the car doesn't look too bad. Might be worth $6-7000 to the right person. Anyone know what the little mini-console is next to the driver's right knee? i***0 ( 13Feedback score is 10 to 49) US $6,760.00 Feb-06-14 16:40:12 PST d***c ( 272Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $6,660.00 Feb-07-14 05:01:02 PST i***0 ( 13Feedback score is 10 to 49) US $5,000.00 Feb-06-14 16:10:07 PST p***d ( 42Feedback score is 10 to 49) US $3,502.00 Feb-06-14 14:06:28 PST f***g ( 950Feedback score is 500 to 999) US $2,777.41 Feb-06-14 15:56:31 PST d***c ( 272Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $2,666.00 Feb-06-14 12:41:13 PST e***u ( 50Feedback score is 50 to 99) US $2,300.00 Feb-06-14 12:51:56 PST o***o ( 46Feedback score is 10 to 49) US $2,225.25 Feb-06-14 12:38:36 PST d***c ( 272Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $1,666.00 Feb-06-14 12:41:00 PST l***i ( 100Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $1,550.50 Feb-06-14 10:52:17 PST 1***a ( 272Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $1,500.00 Feb-06-14 12:37:36 PST y***r ( 401Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $899.00 Feb-06-14 12:32:48 PST e***u ( 160Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $797.77 Feb-06-14 12:30:27 PST e***h ( 308Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $777.77 Feb-06-14 10:42:42 PST p***u ( 591Feedback score is 500 to 999) US $750.00 Feb-06-14 08:36:33 PST 4***e ( 1141Feedback score is 1000 to 4,999) US $560.00 Feb-06-14 08:56:43 PST Starting Price US $500.00 Feb-06-14 08:30:00 PST

Maybe you have bad connection on the S wire. The internal regulator uses the S wire to set output, raising output until S is at the set point. You can test it by running a jumper from the S terminal directly to the battery positive or the starter solenoid lug. If voltage drops to normal, then your S wire has a bad connection. I've had a bad connection right at the T connector on the alternator. You might just clean that up and make sure it's tight also.

How about a link? Found it. Search Gas Monkey on eBay. Looks like they've been hauling garbage in it, full white trash bags in the passenger compartment. Even the pros can make a bad For Sale picture. I don't really see the water damage. Only one picture from underneath, can't tell. It has an R180 diff. Offer half, it's the Gas Monkey way. Then split it and you're at $4,500. Still might be high for an old stock 260Z with a four-barrel. Need more info.

I'll plug one in to a spare tachometer that I have along with a factory bulb and compare. Should be able to get a good idea of fit and a picture. They're shipping ground so it will probably be late next week.

18 degrees F, snowing and wind gusts in the 20's, in the Portland OR area. Not too extreme but unusual. Many car accidents.

Just ordered 2 boxes, $14.19 total. Probably should have got three. Shipping was $9.99. The LEDs look tempting, especially considering the power savings at idle and longevity. But inexpensive wins out today. And the Eikos are rated at 4000 hours. They look good. Thanks for the recommendations.

jfa, thanks for the info and the link. FastWoman had referenced that bulb (the Eiko bulb) also in another thread. That's a great price. I assume that the bulb doesn't look like the picture, since they seem to be showing a Sylvania 53 bulb, probably just for shape. How was ordering from Plant Bulb? SteveJ, where did you use the LED bulbs? Gauge illumination? I used a clear LED although I wanted a diffuse style. They were out of those. And which did you use, they have several options? From what I've seen, and when i was first looking for bulbs a few years ago, the BA9S options of the right size bulb come and go. The only ones I could find recently were either 1 or 1.25 watts. Many of the online higher wattage options were out of stock. Also, many bulbs that look correct are just low durability, low hour flashlight bulbs. Hard to find a good option that will give the right light and last long.

Here's a link to JMortensen's diff opus. Says the R160 is a straight bolt-in swap for an R180. Also has a comment about capacity. Differential / CV / LSD / HP / Torque / R160 / R180 / R200 / R230 / Diff Mount - Drivetrain - HybridZ

Since the u-joints are replaceable I wonder if you could combine half-shafts to make a hybrid shaft that would work. Subie stub and flange on one side of the joint and the 240Z shaft, u-joint and flange on the other. It would only work if the u-joint was common or a suitable joint could be sourced.

I was in a hobby shop looking for Lionel train bulbs with the same base as the Z car gauge bulbs (BA9S) when I saw an LED display (display of bulbs). I ended up buying a package and building an LED gauge bulb. Unfortunately, LEDs have a very directional output and the gauges are designed for the all-around glow of an incandescent bulb, so the brightness did not make its way to where it needed to be when installed in a gauge. It was still fun though and I can see why people get hooked on LEDs once they try a few. I couldn't get a good illumination picture in a spare tachometer I have. Too much glare off the face of the gauge. I did find that the LED turned a turn signal indicator blue over the stock green. The turn signals are straight-on so the LEDs could be used there. Next time I have to pull it out. The last picture is a stock Nissan bulb compared to a low brightness LED assembly (brightness depends on the resistor used). Overall, the LEDs seem pretty robust and easy to handle. Lots of potential.

Post #6 here looks fairly non-restrictive, but is not "cold air" - Carbon Fiber Weber/Mikuni Velocity Stacks - Vendor's Forum - HybridZ

Has anyone tried the new gauge bulbs from MSA? I see that they have discontinued the old, junky ones that would melt the gauge lens and burn out in months. I just got through a whole ordeal replacing an old MSA speedo bulb only to have it burn out the next day, finally replacing them with Wagner BP53's which are 1 watt and dim. Planning my next move. Here's the link to the new ones from MSA. They got the right size now and the description looks good. But so did the description for the old junk bulbs. Motorsport! Dashboard Bulb Kit (15), High Luminescent, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Old junk from MSA - Motorsport! Dashboard Bulb Kit (15), Higher Watt, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

Hot air under the hood is likely when sitting but has anyone actually looked at air flow and temperature while driving? The air through the radiator has some extra heat energy but at speed it seems like most of the air flowing through the engine bay is excess and probably at ambient temperature. Hot air in to the intake probably only happens at stop lights. It may also happen on the dyno unless they have some really good fans. Measuring the temperature would be a little difficult since a probe could pick up radiant heat also. It would have to be in the intake opening to really know. Just thinking. I've always wondered about this when I hear about underhood temperatures and cold air intakes.

Can't edit - cam timing would also explain the loss of power at 4200 RPM. Too advanced, I believe.