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Zed Head

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Everything posted by Zed Head

  1. Oops, I missed the fact that Test 6 asks the same thing. What they want you to do is to ground the center wire of the coil, the big one that's the same size as a plug wire, to the block so that the current from the coil has somewhere to go. So that you can crank the engine over without the engine starting. So pop the wire out of the distributor cap. leave it connected to the coil, and place or clamp the metal end against a solid piece of metal on the engine block. Just make sure that it's solidly placed, if it gets loose it can spark to things that shouldn't get spark. And if it's too far away to spark, the electrical pulse can do other damage if it has no way to discharge. As I understand things. The spark from that wire will be a big one.
  2. The test connections are at the connector/plug ("receptacle" = receiver) so your second tests were correct, and results look good. I would do Test #6, since that measures voltage during starting. Your starter could be drawing too many volts or your battery could be weak. I would also do something similar Test #9, since the module grounds through the distributor body, except Iwould just measure resistance to ground. The ground is the other important part, that allows current flow. You can have correct voltage but low current and have problems. Measure resistance from the distributor body to the engine block. I don't know why they test voltage drop with the coil discharging. It seems like a good way to make a mistake and damage the module. Check the ground first.
  3. One of the handy features of the Z's and ZX's is that the hood opens forward. Get some 1 - 2' test leads with alligator clips on each end and set the meter up where you can see it from inside the car.
  4. Check for spark first. Make sure it's a good solid blue spark, not a weak thin yellowish spark. If you have no spark... A bad ignition module or dirty connections at the ignition module are a possibility. They're in a dirty. dusty spot and the rubber seals and wire insulation tend to get baked and cracked. The module and coil need a good voltage supply to create a good spark. When the engine is cranking voltage drops. A few more lost volts due to dirty connections could be enough to weaken the spark during starting. Finally, when did you last give it a tune-up? Worn, dirty spark-plugs can cause problems.
  5. Zed Head posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Read three more pages in the Owner's Manual. Do not push.
  6. Zed Head posted a post in a topic in Internet Finds
    Barns. They must be found in a barn.
  7. Zed Head posted a post in a topic in Internet Finds
    For the record. Things got real weird in the last half hour.
  8. There's always some little thing that makes you think twice on these high asking price cars. Who lists the brand of their fuel filter? It's listed in the magazine article also. They probably mean fuel pressure regulator, but it's a sign that somebody has either just bought a bunch of brand names or the seller doesn't really know what they have, One of those odd things. It's not even an auction, just a set price Buy It Now. "Fuel safe trunk mounted fuel cell (16 gallon) Aeromotive fuel filter Walbro 255 fuel pump(mounted in trunk)" "To move fuel from the trunk to the engine bay, a Bosch 044 inline pump with an Aeromotive filter ensures steady delivery of 91 octane to the quartet of RC Engineering 750cc/min injectors. With these issues addressed, JDM Concepts could finally tune the engine."
  9. I have three different levers, not including the one n my 76. A straight lever with the spring-loaded pivot, from an 83 ZX 5 speed I believe, a straight lever with no spring-loaded pivot, from an 80 ZX 5 speed, and a bent lever, from a 78 5 speed. They all have the notch marks, but the Zx levers both have long scrapes in addition. A person could probably spend some time fine tuning their shift mechanism. I'm surprised at the variations. The middle lever is the 280Z lever.
  10. No, I just wasn't clear on what the real problem was. That's why I said it was weird. As I noted, the real issue isn't the throw, it's how deep the longer arm (of the "shorter-stroke" shifter) sits in the hole. So grinding the top of the hole away is the correct solution. Edit - actually, I think that it's just too wide at the base of the shaft of the actuating portion. Because, assuming the same diameters up to the pivot point, the one with the longer actuating arm should end up farther away from the edge of the hole. That is the heart of all of my confusion. Edit again - actually it won't end up farther away at that point. It's an interesting exercise. Since the bottom of the actuator is moving the top of the striking rod cylinder closer to the top of the actuator, it makes sense that it would bind in that spot, since the bottom of the actuator moves the whole cylinder farther before the top of the actuator can get out of the way. Probably clear to many, I just didn't get it. It may be why, though the later ZX shifters have a spring loaded moveable pivot point. When you press down on a ZX lever you get a long actuator, then if you release the downward force the spring pushes the whole shift lever back up. That would give the benefits of a short-stroke (long actuator) lever without the binding problem described here. Sorry for cluttering up the thread. I did figure out some new things though. I might try a ZX shifter in my Z to see what happens. We're all in agreement on short-stroke shifters, and how they work.
  11. What I would really like to know though, is where the shifter with the longer actuator below the pivot point came from. All of the ones I've seen have about the same length. I'd like to have one that gives a shorter lever throw. Another edit - I'm going to guess that the rod on the left is a 240Z rod, and the one on the right is 280Z. I already have several of those. So no luck for me.
  12. My mistake in not being clear. I should have stopped with - what lever are you using?
  13. My apologies. I mixed up my terminologies, using throw for the actuating portion below the pivot, and for the lever itself. What I said wasn't backward in whole, it was internally inconsistent.
  14. Edited my error away. Just causing confusion. The reason there is a problem is because the actuating lever (what should that thing be called?) of the rod on the right sits too deep in the hole.
  15. I have to disagree. For the same angle and throw distance above the shift lever pivot point, the one with the longer arm beneath the pivot point will move the striking rod farther. It's the movement of the striking rod that determines how far the top will move. Or, in different terms, for the necessary movement of the striking rod, the lever with the longer throw will end up at a smaller angle. Anyway, glad you shared a solution. Still odd, since those parts were designed to work together. It implies that there are significant differences in striking rods, or something else, among the various transmissions.
  16. The spraying of the carb cleaner is most effective on EFI systems. With carbs, you would spray at any connection points between the carbs and the head. The gasket surfaces and any vacuum hoses, like the big one for the brake booster.
  17. Zed Head posted a post in a topic in Fuel Injection
    What's wrong with the one that you have? I have some spares but they require a potentiometer on the cooling circuit to work right. Sorry, I'm not offering them, just proposing a fix.
  18. Why Nissan over Exedy? Exedy is pretty well established. I have an old Rhinopac brand clutch kit and it works great. But I don't think that they're available any more. If yours is stock, it will be a 225 mm clutch and flywheel. Hope that your flywheel has survived the heat of slipping, because the 225 mm flyhweels are getting hard to find. If you find a 225 mm flywheel in a local wrecking yard or CL, you might buy that, and get it resurfaced and ready to go, before you do the job. The aftermarket performance fly wheels are really expensive. Some of the performance clutches, and some of the lower quality clutches, have a higher pedal force required. I had a Zoom Perfection clutch, that could be used to chirp the tires, but it had a higher pedal force. The Rhinopac is much smoother, but has a softer engagement point. No chirps. The Centerforce centrifugal weight system is designed to give more holding pressure at high RPM. Racing technology that's made it to the street. Might be overkill.
  19. So this a DatsunParts LLC engine? I don't think that you've mentioned that in any other posts. Interesting that he used a cam from a company that went out of business. Your best option would probably be to buy a complete kit from one of the well-known suppliers, like MSA or Schneider. It will be expensive, you'll need the cam, 12 rocker arms, and 12 lash pads. Might be cheaper to just buy a whole head.
  20. This is a weird problem. Which lever are you using? The one on the right looks like it has a longer throw, and would be less likely to have the problem.
  21. The results will be very interesting. People have built MAF conversion kits for other brands, like BMW, but nobody has really quantified the benefits. It seems like the MAF should have better resolution at the high flow end, allowing better fuel supply control. I get the impression that the vane-type systems just add lots of extra fuel at the high end because when the vane is pushed open large air volume changes only cause small vane movements. If you could compare that between the two, and response rate to opening the throttle, that would be very cool. Pulsing of the signal would seem likely with the vane system also, something I believe the weight and the balance chamber were intended to damp.
  22. Zed Head posted a post in a topic in Internet Finds
    The eBay seller has other cars for sale, including a GNose Z. If you search his phone number on Google you'll find his shop downn Califormia. It's a Google world we live in now. harmony01 | eBay Another "Collectors Dream!". Giant open cowl hood, but no giant motor. Maybe a past V8 car? Wide rear fender flairs also. Datsun Z Series 240Z G Nose | eBay
  23. Zed Head posted a post in a topic in Suspension & Steering
    How about the TC rod? The wheel would move more forward and backward, rather than rotating, or both at the same time. Maybe you damaged a TC rod bushing or the rod is broken.
  24. Zed Head posted a post in a topic in Internet Finds
    The hood is a different color also. Not primer, but gray/silver with pinstripes. Looks like an accident. replacement parts purchased, and still being assembled. No mention of the bottom corner fender pieces and the center section either. Straight stories are hard to find with these old collectibles. The guy actually wrote the sentence below in the ad. "Body is straight with almost no rust and no collision damage that I can see. " Seems like when I ever see one of these I end up bashing the seller but they all seem to stretch the truth.
  25. Zed Head posted a post in a topic in Internet Finds
    There's a two party battle happening but the reserve is still not met.
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