Zed Head

Depends on R180 or R200. Illustrations in the Suspension chapter.

Actually, it doesn't seem like that would be the cause of your problem, but I don't know for sure. The L wire would be running to F or N which might be a short and pull enough through the Lamp to blow the fuse. The S wire might be doing the same but that should happen as soon as it's plugged in. CO, SteveJ, or Dave might know the circuit well enough to say. 240Z circuits are bit odd. Either way, you'll need a ZX alternator to use with Dave's ZXP plug. You could just get the right one and try it. Worst case you waste another fuse.

Those are both external. The F and the N of the "T" plug tell the story. Internal uses S and L. I'm using an ancient 1981 280ZX wrecking yard alternator on my converted system. My parts sore alt crapped out and never had much juice at low RPM.

Never mind.

Aack. The 77 used external. I think that you mean that you should have used a ZX alternator with Dave's ZXP plug. The 77 alt is essentially the same as a 240Z alt. 78 and up is what you want with the plug.

File the flats smooth and parallel, really clamp the vise-grips on tight (I use full-size, for leverage and more grip area), get a good view of the nut using bright light, then put some force on it while watching for any slippage. If it slips at all, stop and reset. Clean the flats of the nut with crab or brake cleaner and dry them off. Any oil film will allow slippage. Use a torch or heat gun to heat up the female side. Leave room for your knuckles, when it goes it will feel like it broke. If you're doing the junction, put vise-grips on the other side also. Don't depend on the fitting on the strut, it will round out too. If you use two vise-grips, set them up so that you can squeeze them like a motorcycle brake lever. Or press them together with two hands.

I was just trying to give another description of how the throwout bearing collar needs to match the pressure plate. Since it's hanging on the nose of the transmission when it's pulled people, myself included in the past, tend to think it's matched to the transmission. The 1980 Maxima transmission is the same one used on the 280ZX. The Maxima manual is just not as commonly described. The 1980 Maxima used a 2.4 liter L6 engine. I think it has the same ratios, but not positive. Hard to find Maxima information. Edit - actually they have still been using the 1979 ZX ratios,which are the same as 77-78 280Z. 3.321, 2.077, 1.308, 1, and .864. Don't forget to consider your diff ratio. Here's a table from the interweb, but it's not quite completely right. Shows 280Z in one entry with 3.592 first, which is not correct. The rest seems on though. http://newprotest.org/projects/510/gearRatios.pl

Should bolt right in. Several threads on this forum about bending or cutting/welding shift levers so you don't have to modify your console or car body. The clutch is an assembly of parts that is separate from the transmission. There is nothing to "match". Keep all of the parts you have or make sure any new parts you get are meant to work together. But don't worry about the transmission, it has nothing to do with them, as long as the tip of the pivot ball is where it's supposed to be.

Check inside the fan housing. Mine was full. The top of the glovebox was the toilet area, apparently.

There's a P90A head for sale on Hybridz for $200. North Carolina "P90a head complete with cam and all rockers. $200 "

You have a completely different animal than a 1983 280ZX turbo engine management system. Better be careful, these engines blow head gaskets or break rings easily when turbo'ed. The Z31 ECU uses a CAS also. Open a 1984-87 FSM EFEC chapter to see the details. Your Crane ignition box might be wired for universal trigger, but that's probably not what's under the distributor cap. The ECU triggers the ignition. You have more than a little bit of time and effort in front of you. Should be fun though.

1983 turbo systems use a CAS to the ECU and the ECU controls the coil. The universal magnetic trigger implies that you don't have the 1983 turbo system. What's controlling the EFI on your engine?

Interesting that you got Standard. Eiji didn't bore a size over? Might check bore size with your guy. Break-in depends more on the rings I think. But most products come with instructions. Follow those.

I used a piece of string to figure out how long the parts store line should be, and wood screws on a board to bend it. Lay the old line on the board, put some screws inside the bends, bend the new line to match, repeat for each bend. The advantage of the board and screws is that if you place them right you won't over-bend, plus you can go slow and see when you're close. Beware though, average line will work harden so it's only (easily) bendable once.

We need that part number though for the AC Delco kit. The pictures on the interweb don't show that it comes with the washers, sleeves, and nuts. Much better than the Moog set, which is just the rubber. Just post the correct orientation and it's a nice little informative story.

Weird that eBay won't let you search for a seller, only an item. Tried to find pioneer556 but got nothing. Did find a P90 head from him though. That's a lot of money for a bad head. Probably get a whole car with the head for that money, somewhere. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-280ZX-Turbo-Cylinder-head-P90A-1981-83-rebuilt-/331837762669?hash=item4d43126c6d:g:XZcAAOSw2ENW64YW&vxp=mtr

Thanks for completing the circle. These engines are very susceptible to detonation damage and to detonation. Even the best parts can't withstand detonation.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/comprod/ball&socket/index.htm

The distance piece is supposed to match the bearing race in the hub. Its purpose is to match the inner race distance with the outer race distance, of the ball bearing assemblies. Described in the RA chapter, I think. Letters are stamped on the piece and the hub and should match. There's also a table showing specifications. Attached the 1982 chart.

There's a factory washer that's thicker and more rigid than average, and designed to fit against the step on the rod. And another to go on the other side of the sandwich. What you took apart is an aftermarket kit, designed to make the front control arms more stable. The factory rubber is pretty floppy. You might be able to get replacements for the spherical pieces and kep using what you have. If you go with the ES urethane you'll want to only use the front and use factory rubber on the back. The rod ends tend to break off otherwise, from flex fatigue.

Much better but is that for 1972? My snippet was from what's supposed to be the 1972 BE chapter. The fuse panels are different so that should give a clue.

Maybe Horn Relay is the horn button mechanism. The switch shown is a manual switch, releasing power from the fuse panel to the horn and back to the combo switch through the coil shown. Can't find a Horn Button on the diagram. Your best bet is to just check for power at H on the fuse panel, then probe the parts at the horn button area for power. SteveJ probably knows. A title change might catch his eye. Others might know also. My horn has always worked and I have a 76.

There does appear to a fuse for the horn at the fuse panel. Worth checking first. Have to say though, that I can't understand the horn relay wiring diagram provided by Nissan. They show the solenoid, the switch and the horn all connected to the same spot in the relay. And the relay sends power back to the combo switch. Since the horn is grounded at its mount that would have the horn on all the time. Odd. Unless it's set up to work like a transistor. GB provides power to actuate the horn through the switch and the fuse. Using the same ground circuit, the horn itself.

Detonation breaks the ring lands, and the edges of the pistons. Powerful explosions on the tops of the pistons. Once you get a fracture it can propagate. I have a vision of somebody not realizing what that engine noise was and just driving and driving with timing mis-set or low octane fuel. Basically beating the heck out of the piston tops. I filled my 1969 GTO with low octane and it was torture putting around at part-throttle waiting for the needle to get close to E. Should have siphoned it out. I had the intelligence of a high-school kid though. Could be that over-heating was involved. That might warp the head and blow the head gasket, which would explain the new head. It might have had damaged pistons when the new head was installed.

You can make your horn beep with a piece of wire, or a screwdriver, from its state of disassembly in your picture, if it's connected properly and they work (they're behind the grill). The power is there, and the horn button and its metal parts just provide the ground. This is not the problem you started with, but good that you redefined it. Could be that the horns themselves are disconnected.