Zed Head

A simple courtesy message seems easy enough to do. The blanket deletion seems heavy-handed. A bit authoritarian.

Edited - Disappointing. It was a good conversation. But it's Mike's forum at the end of the day. We just hang out here.

This doesn't seem relevant anymore although it is odd that the guy has not been back since he made his 3rd post May 13, 2016. Whoever the guy is.

At the PicknPull in north Washington state. Can't tell if there's an engine in it or not. https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/JN1CZ04SXDX755428

Notice how the guy separated Eiji out, and he is presenting himself as Datsun Spirit. Like Eiji is leaving and new management is coming in. Almost 8 years ago. Things change.

The diff would be worth a look, but it's probably an R180. The wheels look good. I recall similarities in the front struts but it might just be the shock/cartridges. But, the person who takes it will still have to get rid of the body somehow, difficult with no title. They could cut it up, but with today's converter problem there's more eyes on the scrap yards. Might have to bury the remains in the yard.

Do you mean the "baffle plate"?

Thanks for the work and the picture. That would be a replacement then, not original to the car. The early solid state regulators used to fail often and suddenly, based on what I've read on the various forums. The potting compound should not be cracked like that. Rotating machine! https://www.unipoint.com.tw/ https://www.unipoint.com.tw/about.php 1977 Nissan 280Z is still in their database but there are no parts shown for it. https://www.unipoint.com.tw/rm_application_search_list.php#

At least take the cover off to see how corroded things are inside. Pleeeeeaaassse.

Figured it out....

Kind of disappointing. You had everything in front of you to take the cover off, examine, clean up, adjust, but you went directly to replace. And you're not even sure that that's the part that needs replacing. It might be that alternator. p.s. the multi-quote thing doesn't work, or I would list the quotes that showed the path.

Yes, There are two round plugs but I think SteveJ means the big one. You can see the fastening screw on the bracket in your picture. Can't remember but I think that the big plate is removable, exposing all of the goodies underneath.

I don't think he can adjust away a spike on the meter. But maybe the mechanical points can be cleaned up. Should be fun, usually they just crap out completely. Worth a shot.

Bad regulator or alternator. Better check things out before damage is done.

Which head and pistons? You might have posted it somewhere else but it's been a while. The combination will determine your CR. If you use an adapter it will give you lower numbers than if you run the hose straight to the plug hole. Your numbers are low.

I put the springs in the shoes with the shoes laying on the ground then fold the shoes up like a book. Hold them up to the backing plate and open the book to get the shoes placed correctly. Then insert the pins and retainers. You need to be dexterous with one hand, holding the shoes in place with one while you try to get the pins and retainers inserted with the other, or use your knee to keep the shoes in place once you get them up there. If I was going to do it again I might use a bungee cord to hold the shoes in place while I put the pins and retainers in. One way to do it.

How would you shave stamped steel? Looks like a normal cap.

Edit - didn't mean to overpower grannyknot's post. The "antifreeze coming off the timing chain" just jumped out at me. Not right! Your first impulse was correct. There should not be coolant coming from the timing chain area at all. The coolant system is completely isolated from the crankcase. Your oil is ruined but the engine might be okay. Remove the valve cover again and see if you can find where the coolant is coming from. Cracked front (timing gear) cover seems possible. Did you have any problems removing the head? The two little bolts maybe. Did you remove the front cover?

Yes. Easier to just plug them to block fumes and leave them for someone down the line who might go resto on the car. Plus, they're good ports for electrical wires in the future.

Pumping the pedal will only have an effect if you get the TPS to full throttle "full enrichment". This will increase the fuel through the injectors by 27%. Kind of sounds like you have low fuel pressure or a leaking FPR or fuel pump. Pumping the pedal adds some fuel, keeping the engine going until fuel pressure builds up to where it should be. You could probably just hold the pedal wide open and get the same effect, except it would be scary when it finally takes off. The AAR will be just like holding the throttle pedal slightly open, except that you'll lose "idle enrichment", which probably isn't much.

p.s. The early 280Z electronic ignition was really not much better than points, the spark strength was the same but it was lower maintenance. 1978 is when they introduced the stronger ignition module. The GM HEI module is high energy and durable. It was used for decades. Make sure the 280Z distributor is in good shape. Most of them have rusted/corroded/gummed up vacuum advance breaker plates and/or blown vacuum advance diaphragms. But, you're probably running carbs, so you might not use the vacuum advance, many people don't. If so, you might want to just lock the breaker plate so it doesn't move on its own and cause timing to change.

This one is a good start for the 240Z's. Some people have tachometer problems when they switch to electronic ignition, but others don't. Always a good idea to study the instructions and understand what each wire does before beginning. It's tempting to just follow the instructions and match wire colors but often there is a step missing or just not quite right. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/gmhei.html

Tried to find a video of sound but there's nothing out there. Even the 400Z "proto" was a serious buzzkill. Maybe it's going to be electric.

Found another 33 at the beginning if this video.

Not clear what you mean by "at the beam". Power passes from the combination switch, to the fuse box, where it is split in to left and right, each side fused. High and low beam are determined by which is grounded. So there should be a power supply wire at each bulb that supplies power to the high filament and the low filament. The other two wires are ground wires back to the dimmer switch, one high and one low. I recall that one filament can be burned out but, because it is on a branch with the other, the other can glow dimly as there is a voltage difference across the filament. Sometimes called backfeeding, I think. Anyway, you might try checking resistance across the filaments to be sure none are burned out. One very dim light and one bright one are often a sign of a burned out bulb (actually one filament in the dim bulb).