Zed Head

Never mind. That wouldn't work.

Are you following the instructions exactly? The 1.5 turns?

Here's 1976. Just bolt it up and bleed it.

It's interesting that when Nissan went to the self-adjusting operating (slave) cylinder that they put a very light weight spring in the cylinder to take up the play. Which means that the gap gets reduced to zero, but with no significant force. I wonder if that has something to do with the noise that people often hear, that many have assumed is the countershaft bearing. Maybe it's the clutch fork rubbing on the throwout bearing. A person would have to hear the noise, open the hood and reach down to the cylinder and pull the rod back to be sure, I'd guess. Or get a helper to do it. Just a thought I had when looking at how the self-adjuster works. There is no 2 mm gap.

There's probably no countersink.

There's no real "sweet spot" to find. Pressure cannot be maintained on the clutch fork once the pedal is released because the fluid will return to the reservoir. The beauty of the hydraulic system. In other words when you make the rod longer once it touches the fork, (edit) and the fork is touching the pressure plate fingers, you're just using up potential travel if you extend it further. There's no reason for the clutch to slip. If it is releasing fully you should be fine. Good luck.

There are several. They call it a "friction kit". Use that term. https://www.fidanza.com/pages/catalog-search-sd

Fidanza's web site is pretty poor, the search engine doesn't find anything, but Google did. Here's an example of a replacement plate. Not sure if it's right for yours or not. Probably best to call them. https://www.fidanza.com/products/copy-of-flywheel-friction-kit-229501?variant=14995559841835

1976 Camaro will work. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1976,camaro,5.0l+305cid+v8,1035065,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172

Low fuel pressure comes to mind. Clogs, bad pump, bad filter. Easy to check. Very important.

The gasoline was fine. The injectors just didn't flow evenly. I drove it that way for quite a while. If you told use what "not great" means we could have more fun.

How long has it been sitting? Here is what my six injectors produced at full flow on my engine after I bought a long-sitting car. That's gasoline.

Have you calibrated your eyeballs?

Nissan wrote a book. It covers all years through 1980. Many possible reasons for not running great.

The last 1/2 inch might be the pilot bushing in the crankshaft. You haven't said if the fork is hitting the back of the hole. Looks like the vendor might be right. The 240 mm pressure plate does fit many different applications. I think I might have known that once in the past. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1990,300zx,3.0l+v6,1209686,transmission-manual,clutch+pressure+plate,1988

Could you post a picture of the receipt? Delete your personal info. Or post the link that you bought it from. Where did you get it? Fidanza drills their flywheels to fit multiple pressure plates. Might be that that kit will work with Fidanza's wheel. But if you were jamming the disc forward while bolting the transmission down it would be held against the flywheel by the shaft. That would be a problem.

I found the numbers at the end of that thread. Also added a post. I pulled the numbers from Terrapin Z's measurements, from the ears to the bearing surface. Wonder why there are four. Doesn't really make sense. 32.3 37.3 42.9 46.8

I pulled the numbers from Terrapin Z's measurements, from the ears to the bearing surface. Wonder why there are four. Doesn't really make sense. 32.3 37.3 42.9 46.8

I'd measure first. The labels in that picture of the four TOB's doesn't actually mean much. It's the pressure plate size that matters, for the Type B transmissions, not the car or transmission. I think that there is a 225 mm version and a 240 mm version for the 280Z's, and probably an early monkey motion 4 speed version for the 240Z's. Basically there's a tall and a short for what you're working with. Anyway, if you take a measurement and know what you need I think that somebody like @Terrapin Z would have one. He actually measured several in the recent past and posted the numbers. I'll see if I can find the thread. It might be at the end of that one I linked, not sure.

Just remembered that there is an assumption that the surface of the flywheel is the same distance from the back of the block across all engines and flywheels. It seems reasonable but maybe Fidanza's is not. I doubt that Fidanza would change that critical distance but you never know. Regardless, if the fork is hitting the back of the hole and the clutch fork is solid you need a taller sleeve.

Put your car description in this Signature box and click Save and people won't have to try to remember or search for what car you're working with. https://www.classiczcars.com/settings/signature/

I see now. I didn't look closely before. That's a simple measuring method, why did I make mine so complicated? If I adjust for the angle of the camera it looks like yours might be about 85 mm. So about 7 mm short. 29, 25, 24, and 16 seems to be the range of choices, so 13 mm covers the range, with 4 mm and 8 mm steps, about. Just eyeballing your picture it looks like you have a short one. I think that you need a long one.

Here's the real deal 6097. Is it somebody on the forum? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-85/

You have to measure down to the mounting surface of the pressure plate. It's shown in that thread. You have only measured to the top of the fingers, it's not clear how tall your pressure plate is. 92 mm is a number that should work on any transmission, because the clutch fork pivot ball is at the same distance from the back of the engine on all transmissions. The mechanisms of the clutch system fit between the engine and the transmission. There are many different TOB sleeve heights because there are many different heights of pressure plate. If the fork is hitting the back of the hole and the clutch disc does not release there's nothing that you can do to make it work except get a taller sleeve.

I watched the video again. When I first watched it I assumed/hoped that the "thunk" at the end of the stroke was from the pedal in the cabin hitting the floor stop. But I think it might be from the fork at the back of the hole in the transmission. Remove the rubber dust cover from the hole and see if the fork is bottoming out. If it is, and the fork is seated on the pivot ball correctly, then your throwout sleeve is probably not tall enough or the fork is broken or something. You've achieved maximum movement.