Zed Head

Are trying to sell a car, indirectly? The post you replied to is over two years old. If so, say so.

Consider the GM HEI module swap if you want to go inexpensive. It might be the best value for the money out there, but does take a little bit of wiring work. Combine it with an HEI coil and you'll have a true high energy system, designed for .040" or greater spark plug gap. At least one of your options above (Pertronix, no offense to users) is electronic but not high energy. If you have a dual pickup distributor you're going to lose one of them in any case except a stock replacement. Not really a big deal, the second pickup is an emissions and convenience item.

Here are some pictures of the Eiko bulbs, and a comparison. My only "small-form" bulb is labeled LIFE 12V3.4W. The Eiko bulb is labeled 12V4W3E. My camera can't capture the look of the filament, only the size of the glow. The Eiko filament gives a nice wide glow, compared to the LIFE bulb. I don't know if LIFE is a Nissan vendor or aftermarket from the past, I pulled it from an old gauge. So it's old v. new which could also be a factor in brightness. The Eiko bulb slipped right in to the fitting, no issues. One possible down-side to the Eiko bulb is that it does not have a supported filament. Apparently that can affect longevity in a vibratory environment. Who knows... I won't be installing these for a while. The dim 1 watters will do until I have some reason to remove the gauges. The Eiko bulb is on the right in the attached picture.

How about putting the clip on the shaft without the handle? It should sit deep in the groove, firmly placed, not easily removed but loose enough to wiggle around. That's how it will be when it's in the handle.

14 hours left! Looks like i***0 has an automatic bid set up. I asked a question but Gas Monkey never replied. Bidder Click here to know more about anonymous user IDs Bid Amount Bid Time i***0 ( 13Feedback score is 10 to 49) US $7,160.00 Feb-06-14 16:40:12 PST d***2 ( 5 ) US $7,060.00 Feb-10-14 20:56:23 PST z***a ( 3 ) US $6,860.00 Feb-09-14 07:25:54 PST

The pre-ZX Z cars had two fuses for the headlights. left and right. If one burned the other light could still get power through "back-feeding" from the other light. You might check your headlight fuses. If you don't have it already, download the Service Manual for your car. Index of /FSM/280z

That video is perfect. 9.5 second build-up, action, end.

siteunseen may have inadvertently steered the discussion off-track with Post #2. The question is how get the handle on, not off. Handle in hand, clip in place in its two slots ready to expand as it passes over the nose of the splined crank shaft, press the handle on to the shaft and the clip expands and slides down the shaft, closing up again when it gets to its slot on the shaft, locking the handle in place. The only reason to not be able to do this is either that the clip is not expanding far enough to slide down the shaft, or it's catching in something on its way down, or that the shaft is bottoming out in the handle hole before the clip gets to its slot. zKars is right, this is sounding way more complicated than it is. Put clip on handle, put handle on shaft, press and pop. That's all there is to it.

Might just need a little lubrication. Smear a little bit of oil or grease on the tapered portion of the splined shaft that the clip has to slide over.

They do use salt in the Portland Metro area, along with gravel and sand. Magnesium chloride (a "salt" in chemistry terms, not the common usage). They add a corrosion inhibitor to it because it's worse than sodium chloride for causing corrosion. You can see the stripes on the road when they lay it down the night before they expect some ice. The rain that usually follows though will wash away the salt. But the worst thing about driving around the Portland area after an ice or snow event is the small rocks thrown up from the gravel. It takes a few days for the sweepers to clear the roads and you'll hear them pinging and popping off the car and windshield until they do.

Here's another clue - the stock springs have quite a bit of preload. You would have had to crank the compressor down quite a bit before they could be set free. The Tokico springs barely have any, just enough to fill the space. You can press the top hat on by hand, it you have the weight, if I recall right. I have them on the back of my car, the front is waiting.

I've had a couple of stock spring sets off and they were black with a colored stripe, about one inch wide. I assume the color had some meaning. Red might be Tokico. It's a bright red. I would test a section of paint with some acetone, MEK, or similar and see if the black is soluble. Don't know for sure but the manufacturers probably use a two-part epoxy or urethane, or a powerdercoat, that wouldn't be soluble. If you're lucky the white ID numbers are two-part also. 5022-F and -R are the 280Z Tokico lowering spring numbers. The stock 77 springs jack the back of the car up pretty high. If your springs were stock you would probably notice.

jfa supplied a link in Post #2. The specs are on Planet Bulb's site. I assumed hours, based on other bulb specs, but it might be minutes! That would be a little over a day though, so unlikely. The model is A 72.

Definitely not Z weather in the Portland OR area. This is coming on top of the foot of slightly melted and refrozen snow - ...FREEZING RAIN ADVISORY IN EFFECT FROM 4 AM TO NOON PST MONDAY FOR THE PORTLAND AND VANCOUVER METRO AREA..

If you didn't put a new bend in the spring end for the perch seat then you ended up at the same height with the same number of active coils. You just cut the seat of the spring off. The picture of the cut piece kind of shows that. Easy to miss since "coil" is a fairly generic word.

Could you connect power and give it a test? Or test unpowered to see if is grounded, either directly or through a device (60 ohms is a typical device resistance). If you find power you could remove fuses until it goes away.

Look here at the bottom of the Motorcycle Tank section. There may be other rust removers that can be sprayed also, this is just one description I found. Evapo-Rust rust remover description page Here's the click-through: Evapo-Rust rust remover chassis testimonial I think that you could make a solution of Naval Jelly and paint it on also. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_naval/overview/Loctite-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver.htm

Check out the bid history. Starting price was $500. I think that's what they would have taken for it. People are paying for the name. Edit - actually the car doesn't look too bad. Might be worth $6-7000 to the right person. Anyone know what the little mini-console is next to the driver's right knee? i***0 ( 13Feedback score is 10 to 49) US $6,760.00 Feb-06-14 16:40:12 PST d***c ( 272Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $6,660.00 Feb-07-14 05:01:02 PST i***0 ( 13Feedback score is 10 to 49) US $5,000.00 Feb-06-14 16:10:07 PST p***d ( 42Feedback score is 10 to 49) US $3,502.00 Feb-06-14 14:06:28 PST f***g ( 950Feedback score is 500 to 999) US $2,777.41 Feb-06-14 15:56:31 PST d***c ( 272Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $2,666.00 Feb-06-14 12:41:13 PST e***u ( 50Feedback score is 50 to 99) US $2,300.00 Feb-06-14 12:51:56 PST o***o ( 46Feedback score is 10 to 49) US $2,225.25 Feb-06-14 12:38:36 PST d***c ( 272Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $1,666.00 Feb-06-14 12:41:00 PST l***i ( 100Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $1,550.50 Feb-06-14 10:52:17 PST 1***a ( 272Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $1,500.00 Feb-06-14 12:37:36 PST y***r ( 401Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $899.00 Feb-06-14 12:32:48 PST e***u ( 160Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $797.77 Feb-06-14 12:30:27 PST e***h ( 308Feedback score is 100 to 499) US $777.77 Feb-06-14 10:42:42 PST p***u ( 591Feedback score is 500 to 999) US $750.00 Feb-06-14 08:36:33 PST 4***e ( 1141Feedback score is 1000 to 4,999) US $560.00 Feb-06-14 08:56:43 PST Starting Price US $500.00 Feb-06-14 08:30:00 PST

Maybe you have bad connection on the S wire. The internal regulator uses the S wire to set output, raising output until S is at the set point. You can test it by running a jumper from the S terminal directly to the battery positive or the starter solenoid lug. If voltage drops to normal, then your S wire has a bad connection. I've had a bad connection right at the T connector on the alternator. You might just clean that up and make sure it's tight also.

How about a link? Found it. Search Gas Monkey on eBay. Looks like they've been hauling garbage in it, full white trash bags in the passenger compartment. Even the pros can make a bad For Sale picture. I don't really see the water damage. Only one picture from underneath, can't tell. It has an R180 diff. Offer half, it's the Gas Monkey way. Then split it and you're at $4,500. Still might be high for an old stock 260Z with a four-barrel. Need more info.

I'll plug one in to a spare tachometer that I have along with a factory bulb and compare. Should be able to get a good idea of fit and a picture. They're shipping ground so it will probably be late next week.

18 degrees F, snowing and wind gusts in the 20's, in the Portland OR area. Not too extreme but unusual. Many car accidents.

Just ordered 2 boxes, $14.19 total. Probably should have got three. Shipping was $9.99. The LEDs look tempting, especially considering the power savings at idle and longevity. But inexpensive wins out today. And the Eikos are rated at 4000 hours. They look good. Thanks for the recommendations.

jfa, thanks for the info and the link. FastWoman had referenced that bulb (the Eiko bulb) also in another thread. That's a great price. I assume that the bulb doesn't look like the picture, since they seem to be showing a Sylvania 53 bulb, probably just for shape. How was ordering from Plant Bulb? SteveJ, where did you use the LED bulbs? Gauge illumination? I used a clear LED although I wanted a diffuse style. They were out of those. And which did you use, they have several options? From what I've seen, and when i was first looking for bulbs a few years ago, the BA9S options of the right size bulb come and go. The only ones I could find recently were either 1 or 1.25 watts. Many of the online higher wattage options were out of stock. Also, many bulbs that look correct are just low durability, low hour flashlight bulbs. Hard to find a good option that will give the right light and last long.

Here's a link to JMortensen's diff opus. Says the R160 is a straight bolt-in swap for an R180. Also has a comment about capacity. Differential / CV / LSD / HP / Torque / R160 / R180 / R200 / R230 / Diff Mount - Drivetrain - HybridZ