Zed Head

How did you "fail"? Might give a clue for some good advice. Search "Arne" and strut replacement and you might find a thread on the 240Z. I think that it was Arne who wrote something up. Yes, you should be able to just swing out the strut and get the job done. It's actually harder for the 280Z's because the strut is longer. Also, yes, the FSM procedure doesn't really work. Nissan didn't know that their spindle pins would be almost impossible to remove.

Ignition modules fail in different manners, but there's almost always heat involved. One trick people use to test them, for the ZX module, is to spray them with some sort of cooling spray or applyi ice to cool them down. Stumbling could be ignition or fuel related but the EFI system will compensate for heat so simple overheating shouldn't really cause stumbling. On the other hand though, if your air-fuel mixture is on the edge of lean, maybe the extra heat pushes it over. It might be worth your while to try the potentiometer in the coolant sensor modification. In your case it would in the CHTS circuit. I haven't seen ZX people with the problem but many 280Z people have added a little resistance to add a little more fuel to the intake air and found good results. The Z's may have been tuned to perfection and today's gas pushes them over, but maybe the ZX's have it too. It's a cheap easy test.

The 123 ignition's electronic ignition module should look the same to the tach and ECU as the factory electronic ignition module, and the commonly used GM HEI module replacement, or even Mallory Unilite, I would think.

I think that the key is to bend the end of the line to get the fitting entering the bore squarely before you try to get the threads to catch. You'll think that you can torque the line enough to get it started and it will pull itself but it won't. Just bend away until it looks perfect and it will probably drop right in.

I also had a lower right hatch leak. It was actually coming through the window seal, but traveling a pretty good distance. What I determined was that the water was leaking in at the top of the rubber, between the metal and the seal along the top edge, running down the open channel between the metal and rubber and coming out inside. I sealed/glued the rubber to the hatch frame all around the seal, top and sides. A new seal probably would have done the job. It's working, in the meantime. I had a similar leak at the windshield, but in-between the glass and rubber. The old rubber just gets stiff and doesn't conform anymore.

Don't forget to check directly at the sensor. Mentioned in case you're still at the ECU. They're not too expensive though so the money spent is almost worth the clean pins on the sensor, by themselves.

I've had the heat-related needle sticking on a running engine, and seen the same from others. Haven't seen a fix yet though, for the original equipment. How about a cooling fan for the gauge? Typically, when it's hot out the gauge will follow RPM up but won't come back down until things cool. I have noticed though that my tach sits 200 RPM high occasionally with just the key on. I'll have to watch the heat and see if there's a correlation. I've never heard of one that just rose on its own with heat. Is the key On? Where would the electrical impulse come from to get it started? I ended up swapping a 78 tach in to my 76. Font mismatch!

I'm thinking this really is 72OJ, under a different name. Couldn't stop talking about how sexy his car was then, now he has to talk about his sexy girlfriend. Somehow, sex always enters the discussion. I've looked and I can't find any confirmation that the LS1 is much lighter than the L6. Most people consider the transmission as part of the package. When you do that the car gets heavier apparently. Here's a thread that he (you) might remember. Post #9. - Weight of an LS1 and an L24 - Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board - HybridZ See how the discussion devolved, then died. I predict that there will be an LS engine of some kind in this car, if this thread is really about finding a nice Z for a step-son.

That's normal. The ECU adds more fuel when it's cold. An unplugged CHTS circuit looks very cold to the ECU.

I picked up some brass and aluminum round stock at the hardware store for that kind of work. I'm decent with hand tools but still managed to gouge the hub when driving the old races out. It's a pain to get in there and clean it back up before installing the new bearings. If I was doing another set I might even get some flat stock that's barely smaller than the hub and notch the sides so it locates inside the race. Actually, I don't remember gouging the hub myself but still found gouges after they were out. Could have been the guy previous, who knows. Nevertheless, easy to gouge.

Sounding more and more like 72OJ. You've already decided that the LS1 swap adds "value". You're really just here to find people who agree with you. Nothing wrong with that, at least you're not randomly posting in other people's threads about how great your car is. I think that that is the real reason 72OJ got banned. It will be interesting to see what your step-son ends up with and how much he pays.

Actually, the ground wires are very important and often overlooked. The black wire on the AFM body seems redundant but who knows. If the air temp sensor grounds through the AFM body and the AFM body doesn't have good conductivity through the mounting bolts then that wire becomes important. The EFI harness and ECU also ground through the second, smaller, black wire at the negative post. All of the electrical connections are potential failure points on these old cars. Blue just linked to a good resource in this thread - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s130-zx-discussions/52710-help-please.html#post460982

Not clear how you could get readings on the other pins but not the air temp. sensor. The wires are all run into the harness at the same spot. Odd. The coolant sensor will have a much bigger effect.

The clicking is from the fuel pump relay. It's probably turning on and off because the switch in the AFM is opening and closing. You might have a vacuum leak or maybe the engine just needs a tuneup. One thing you can do to keep it running while you problem-solve is to turn up the idle speed. It might be a little aggravating to idle at 1100 RPM or so but it will get you by while you troubleshoot. The "fixing itself" is probably just the air-fuel ratio changing as the fuel pressure drops when the pump turns off. It causes RPM to rise, fuel pump turns on, richness happens, RPM drop, repeat. The mix is extra rich when the engine's cold. leans out when warm. Just a possibility. The small details add up. Check all of the hoses to the intake manifold.

That's one weakness of the way the FSM is written. They have a set of quick tests, then a set of more detailed tests. But with a meter at the ECU connector you can just go directly to the full test. You might just have bad connections, not bad relays or sensors. The coolant sensor harness has two bullet connectors in-line, on the top of the intake manifold, that could be disconnected. You can either find and trace the wires or go directly to the sensor and measure resistance across the two pins. I would just go directly to the sensor myself. It's cramped but you can get in there. You can also measure the air temperature circuit at the AFM before you try to replace it. Eurodat had to fabricate a way to use anther sensor in his AFM. It would take some work but may not be necessary in your case. Odds are good that your parts are fine it's just the wires that need work. Best to confirm, once you start wrenching things tend to get broken. Sorry to hear about your colleagues Chas. It wasn't tied to MH17 was it? Things are getting strange in the world.

Without knowing which mystery wire you reconnected and where you found it under the dash there's no way to really know what you did. The car probably started on fuel from the cold start valve which is powered independently via the Start circuit, I believe. You didn't show any test results so it's not clear what "tested bad" means for the EFI relay. If it runs and you don't have any loose wires hanging around, you might as well get the sensor installed, let it run and tune it up. It won't run when warm without the coolant temp. sensor. BUT, it's not clear what "not good" means. Why don't you post some numbers? And make sure you didn't actually measure the thermotime switch. They look similar. Making progress. Your AFM numbers are sketchy, they should be 180 and 100, not 220 and 127, but they're not far off from the 1.8 ratio. It might be okay, those numbers work for some people. If you have a lean condition you might be able to fix it with a potentiometer on the coolant sensor circuit.

This web site looks interesting. A few V8 Z's. Didn't see any LS1's but haven't made it through the pages. 240Z | Makes | Z CAR TRADER ? Free Datsun/Nissan Classified ADs

Could you post some links, or an image of the page data? I looked and only see six 240Z's for sale and a price range, but that's it. That would be a good resource and could answer his questions. I'd like to browse through it myself. Datsun 240Z for Sale | Hemmings Motor News Research Classic Car Pricing | Vehicle Price Guides | Hemmings Motor News

I'm fairly new to the site, but I don't think this is true. Your uncle may have told you this, and may have even believed it, but I an familiar, through his posts here, with the person that you're talking about and I can't see him doing this. I'm also familiar with your uncle's postings, here and on other forums, and can say that he is a very self-absorbed person who would be much more likely to misconstrue honest opinions as attacks on his character. If you want to start fresh, as yourself, you'd be best off to leave your uncle out of the discussion, and not take on any of his burden. You can't fix his past, and it won't help your efforts. It's taken a lot of posts to get to the true purpose of your thread. Kind of disingenuous. Not really a good start.

Do the inner bushings on the control arms. They might be so loose that the new bushings are pushing things out of shape. Could be also that your sway bar ends are too tight, torquing the loose control arm bushing. I've seen where people loosen or disconnect completely the sway bar when diagnosing an issue. Might be worth doing to figure out a cause and/or to get you by in the meantime.

There are a few sizes shown here - Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Front Axle (Knuckle Arm, Road Wheel & Tire) Looks like the dealer might have them too.

I have to compress mine a small amount to get them in on my 280Z. If you can't move them at all by hand you won't be able to install them.

So you're trying to figure out how much to pay. Does he want a V8 240Z or is he looking for an investment? Or is he looking for a car to show? Asking other people how much something is worth rarely gets a common answer. If you want opinions from people who've probably seen, built and driven more LSX powered Z cars, Hybridz is probably a better forum. But the overall "answer" will probably be about the same.

Why are you asking? Are you planning to buy one or modify one?

There is no real topic here.