Zed Head

Not sure what you're saying. You said that the voltage went away. "Checked the fuselink and i have a positive 12v current on the pins from the terminal, but i have no continuity from the other". Plus you're getting continuity (resistance) and voltage measurements mixed up. Good that you're measuring but it's easy to get things confused. You could very well have a light connection inside the fusible link that opens up as soon as current flows. And voltage is not flow, it's just the impetus for flow. What do you see with the key On? On the pictures - those are just wires. Google "280z fusible link" and look at some pictures to see what you're looking for. You might also follow the thick white wire back from the start to see where it goes. It also used to be attached to the fusible links block. Here's one picture - Post #6. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/22763-78-280z-gauge-problems.html

The collar does not match the transmission. It must match the pressure plate (aka clutch cover). This stuff is all over the internet, numerous threads about major problems when parts get mismatched. You might browse around a little before you put things together.

As I said, the fusible links can fail with no visible outward damage. They're designed that way to avoid fires and melty stuff. Your two green fusible links are either bad or have bad connections. You need to replace them, they can't be fixed. Follow the white wire from the alternator's B terminal. You'll probably find a Maxi-fuse block, or some inline fuses,or the fusible link block. That wire used to go to the fusible link block when it was bolted to the side of the relay cover. The fusible links look a like a short piece of wire with a female connector on each end.

I think that you have the change direction backward. Timing is advanced when cold, and goes to the set point when warm. So if you set it to 10 when warm (using a timing light), it will advance to 20 when cold. Advanced timing gives more time for the cold fuel-air charge to burn. If you set your timing to zero, that could affect engine performance. It would be very sluggish.

You didn't give enough detail to give a good answer. Can't tell if the coupe is the L28, or the turbo, or if you have two cars, or just one car and two engines...etc. The flywheels will all bolt up, but the pressure plate, clutch disc, and throwout bearing collar all need to match in order to work properly.

You have at least one bad fusible link, maybe more. But, the only links I see in your pictures are what might be the EFI harness links (two green ones), which would power the injectors and the ECU. They fail internally, so squeezing and taping them won't work, they have to be replaced. I don't even see the other four links. Did someone replace them with fuses? I don't see year of car either so I just copied a picture from 1978.

Article, not a survey... Manufacturing moving from China to US: survey

I've never done any of these. But here's a few comments for discussion. 1. remove the head and check it and the pistons/rings - removing the head and checking its parts for wear should be pretty easy. You can check the cylinder bores for wear, at least the ones that have the pistons down, but you can't tell much about the rings and pistons with just the head off. This is assuming that you plan to do only the head and have locked the tensioner in place, so can't spin the crankshaft. 2. re-ring the pistons - requires removing the oil pan and rod end caps to get the pistons out. But, ideally, the cylinders would be honed, which, ideally, means the crankshaft is out also to make room and keep things clean. People do replace just rings, but it's a halfway job. 3. rebuild the head - depends on how worn things are. Valve seats, valve guides, valve seals. 4. refresh timing components - easy, it's all bolt-on stuff. 5. full rebuild - what patcon said, but from what I've seen on the various forums, it's hard to find a shop that really knows what they're doing. Many seem to make mistakes on shaving the head, installing the cam and rockers, keeping parts in order, etc. Plus the fact that aftermaket parts don't seem to last very long. Just some thoughts, open to criticism. I keep seeing threads from people who seem to know what's needed but can't find a shop to get the work done right. "New" engines or assemblies destroying themselves in relatively few miles.

"Vapor lock", maybe better described as the "hot start" problem, happens when things get really hot. Five minutes is barely warm. The "waited 10 minutes" part means something. Is it really 10 minutes or does one just seem like ten? One could be a fuel feed problem, ten is more likely something cooling down. Someone posted on this recently, maybe you're just reposting (?). But one possibility on the dual pickup cars, is a bad advance control circuit in the ignition module. You could test by shorting the water temperature pins so the the engine always seemed cold to the ignition module, and always used the advanced pickup. I think that I posted a different solution last time, I'm not 100% clear on what happens inside the module. Shorting the switch should work though if that's the problem, locking in the advanced pickup control. Edit - remembered the reason for the PO's solution on my car. On mine, one of the pickups was bad. So the PO wired them together so the module always used the same pickup, no matter what circuit the module was using. So, it could be the "late" pickup or the circuit in the module. If you only have one pickup, this is irrelevant.

I would pull the glove box first and get a good light in on the hoses. If it's just hoses then you can pull the heater fan and its motor and do that work instead of messing with the heater core. MY 76 still had the original hoses and they were almost porous. No actual big leaks, they just seeped coolant through the pores that had opened up.

If you have a DC hertz (DC Hz) setting you can get some numbers and do math. Your coil will fire 3 times per crankshaft revolution, and the meter should pick it up from the coil negative to ground. I've used my Fluke 115 that way to determine that my tach was off by 200 RPM. The tachometer function on a higher grade meter probably uses the same measurement but does the math for you.

This is from Hybridz, but people here might be more interested - L24 Motor and Tranny $100 - Parts for Sale - HybridZ

You should start your own thread and put a little more work in to describing the problem. Can't tell what the question is. The caps and exclamation points don't really add anything.

1973 240z

Found another Vizard article where he shows actual dyno results with a module change (stock coil though, apparently). Above 5000 RPM (V8 engine, = 6,667 L6 RPM), he shows a dramatic change. But he's still promoting MSD and Performance Distributor products. Just odd that there's not more out there on this. Chart #9: Twelve Engine Output Tips - Dandy Dyno Dozen - Stock Car Racing Magazine All Pages

Re Post #10 - there's apparently more to the intent of the thread than just a rant about product quality. It explains my cognitive dissonance though. It can lead to whole separate discussions easily, you can get in to Imperialism, and Isolationism and all kinds of other isms. It can get messy. To the quality issue - it would be nice to keep track of what's good and what's bad. I have an Airtex E8312 fuel pump on my car that's worked fine for probably 50,000 miles. With no prefilter. Just saying, there is some good coming from there. (Pretty sure it was made there but not positive).

I've always wondered where the 4500 RPM limit "rumor" about GM's HEI module came from and finally found the source, in a book David Vizard authored called "How to Build Max-Performance Chevy Small-Blocks on a Budget". The relevant pages are actually available on the internet - [h=1][/h] How to Build Max-Performance Chevy Small-Blocks on a Budget - David Vizard - Google Books I was a little disappointed after reading all of the the various things that Vizard has written. In the end it seems like he's using the old technique of selling aftermarket products by pointing out "flaws" in existing product. I think that he started by selling MSD product, then went to DUI distributors. He even plugged Pertronix in one article. In some of his latest stuff he's lowered the "weakness" limit to 3300 RPM. Ignition Systems Cheat Sheet for the Chevy Small Block Small-Block Engine Build - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine Page 3 Looks like he's "currently" selling Blue Pheonix Plasma stuff - He's selling oil additives here - Oil Extreme Just filling in some gaps before I lose all of the links. If you read some of his original writing, it reads like good science but is short on actual measurements. The weak spark limit seems to be a supposition based on "module voltage output". He never actually measured if there was a misfire, just said that there should be. For the record...

Check the T plug, specifically the S wire. Maybe it has lost contact at the alternator. While you're there, make sure it reads battery voltage with the engine off. Use your meter.

Now that you're done kicking the dog, do you think the problem was solely because of the pump quality or was there rust running through it? Why did you install the filter? In other words, do you think a Made in America (or Canada) electric fuel pump would have lasted longer? The next level of constructivity would be to suggest a better electric pump. for those that don't have a supply of old mechanical pumps. Just trying to end with more information that people can use. Mr. Gasket = bad, what = good?

See what you can reach with it just sitting on the ground. You might be surprised.

Fluke Corporation is an interesting example of how the off-shore manufacturing model could work. I bought mine about seven years ago, a lower-end 115 model. I just looked to see if it had any "Made in..." markings but all it says is "Designed in USA". Not Made. It's of very high quality. But it was more expensive than most other options.

Constructive - give us the brand name so that we can avoid the product. Nonconstructive - vague generalization about country of origin.

I got sucked in to this conversation, so would like to end with something more constructive, along the lines of the car-based advice we all tend to give to new members. There is no simple solution. You just have to put the work in to get the results. Complaining doesn't get anyone anywhere, and just makes everybody involved feel crappy.

Doesn't matter how you word things if you want people to join you in simplistic thinking. I'll bet that G2 filter he threw on there was made in China. Rationalize that.

I had a double post here, but why waste a good reply. Here's something funny to think about. The people complaining here are the same type that will complain about how expensive and hard-to-get things are when trade with China is tariff'ed down to nothing. That's how business works. The reason we can all run down to the one of three or four auto parts stores , open 'til 8 every night, and pick up a new part for a few dollars is China. That's fun to think about. Future thread - RIPOFF Parts stores. "I went down to the only parts store in town, which is only open 10 -2, and had to pay $10 for my part that used to cost $2. What a rip! Stupid American union workers!!! I'm going to start importing black market parts from China. We need to do something about these overpaid ripoff American companies!"