Zed Head

Aren't you still using the stock EFI engine management? 1978 computer, AFM, etc.? The stock EFI system runs off of a "programmed" fuel enrichment map after the AFM opens a certain amount or the throttle is wide open. The map doesn't work well with modified engines, apparently. I haven't seen a specific reason why, but I would guess that it can't be balanced for both high air flow (RPM) performance, and clean running elsewhere. It will be either gassy and rich most of the time, but fun when wide open, or run okay most of the time but down on expected power at WOT. Jeff G and Diseazd would know more. In short, most people say get your engine management right before modifying the engine too much. If you put the N42 head back on the N42 dished-piston engine, you can drive it while you build the other one. Some people say it's okay to use the square port header with a round port head. I've matched gaskets and it seems tight but if the exhaust port liners exit inside the edges of the square header flange, there shouldn't be any dramatic flow hindrance.

Seems like it would knock severely with 34 degrees at low RPM. Any gas at all while driving and it should be a knockarama.

That's some good information. Copied and saved. I don't really have any experience with the R180's. Interesting that the 720 is snap-in. Can you swap yokes on the half-shaft? Put the 720 snap-in yoke on the 240Z half-shaft by separating the two at at the u-joints? Create a new hybrid half-shaft? Just an idea. if John C. was fabricating hybrid axles in the past, that's probably the best route.

That is my understanding. I'm positive it is for the 280Z, I have a set in the garage with 3038 stickers covered by 3012 and 3013 stickers. John Coffey stated the same in a past thread when he was in a sharing mood. I saved the statement, but may not be able to find the thread. There is one caveat though. I just saw a set of Z car Tokicos on eBay that did not have spacers. They looked old, even though they were selling as new, and one of them had lost its pressure. So it may be that the early Tokicos did not use spacers and the later ones do. They were black, not blue. So if that is the case, and you have old Tokicos, you may not have spacers to swap. You might not have a path forward until you take your old ones apart. Edit - here's the eBay ad, for as long as it lasts. They look old and blown, and they're black, and I know for a fact that my newer 3013's are blue and use a spacer. If you use the magnifyer you can see 3013 stamped in to the body, whereas the newer ones use a sticker. So the question for you would be "how old are my Tokicos"". http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-280-Z-rear-strut-inserts-new-pair-/251775021713?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a9ef5f291&vxp=mtr

I wouldn't let the stubs float. They could get jammed if they get far enough out and cocked. You're not really saying if you have a 720 diff that uses snap-in axles but I'd guess that's what you have. The snap-in axles are fairly common. I'd find a set of those, if that's what you have. I've seen where people used a cutoff disc to grind a groove for the circlip. It doesn't see any repetitive work, it only holds the axle in one spot. If you get it in there, with a circlip on it, it shouldn't be a problem. All you need is the dimension to grind the groove.

Dang. I can see how it can be confusing. Rossiz is using "mechanical" to describe cam shaft timing. But many people use mechanical to mean centrifugal, or RPM-based, distributor timing. I tend to interchange the words, even though, technically, the vacuum advance mechanism is also mechanical. The three most descriptive common words would be cam-, vacuum-, and centrifugal-, timing (please nobody bring up the centripetal v. centrifugal thing). Regardless, all of the "timing" events are described in relation to the piston's position in the cylinder, which is described by degrees of crankshaft rotation before or after the very top (TDC) of the piston's travel in the bore. I would do what you planned and see where the cam timing is. It should be close to zero (within ~8 degrees, I think) with the sprocket and groove marks aligned. If it's not, then your damper has slipped or some other weird thing is happening.

The cam sprocket position won't affect the timing mark on the damper. The damper mark is tied to the crankshaft. But aligning the notch and groove should give a fair idea if the timing mark is even close to TDC. You could also build a piston stop and determine where TDC really is, then make a new zero mark. That would work for you since you have the dial-back light.

Pretty easy to take a string and get a measurement, The only specific needed is year of Sportage. Everything else is pretty obvious. Remove old seal, press on new seal. Trim excess. You could take a string or a tape measure out to a Sportage and generate some knowledge? Both the Z and the Sportage hatches are big. I think that Sportage hatch would have to be huge to do two doors and a hatch on a Z with two Sportage hatch seals. Plus, you won't have the 90 degree bend from the Sportage door seal that makes the whole thing so useful. I'm thinking that you'll need two doors and a hatch to do two doors and a hatch.

34 degrees at idle would be a high number. Many engines would be hard to start with that much advance. Is this a stock engine or could it have a mix of damper pulleys and timing tabs? Could be that TDC is not represented by the timing marks. New toys = new problems. Although, if you like the way it runs it's not really a problem.

The transmissions are all the same internally as far as the speedo gear. What matters after that is the tire diameter, not the wheel, and the diff ratio. Are you running low profile tires? A typical 205-70-14 tire is a little over 25" in diameter. That's what I have, with a 3.9 diff, and a white gear (I think. I had to search to find one). My speedometer is very accurate. http://tire-size-conversion.com/tire-size-calculator/ By the way, here's an archived file that used to be available on one of the Z sites. http://www.oocities.org/inlinestroker/ratio.html

I think that you just add the dial-back to whatever shows on the pointer or timing indicator. If you only have a zero then you just move the dial until you get the light to zero and the dial reading is your timing. But if you have the indicators then just move the dial until the light hits a mark, then add the two together. Very useful for seeing timing at full advance, when the light is typically off the pointer or timing tab. If you know that you have about 34 degrees full mechanical, for example, you would set the dial to 30, rev it up and should see around 4 on the engine's indicator (assuming no vacuum advance). You can experiment to verify. Set the dial to zero and see 10 on the normal indicators, set the dial to 10 and the indicators should show zero.

Good luck. I took another closer look at your first picture and it seems like everything is actually there, just dirty and hard to see. Many posts later, it looks like a non-issue. You just need a B-style shift lever, the nylon bushing that sits on the end of it, the pin that holds the lever in place and its clip, and the two nylon bushings that the pin slides through. If you posted a side picture, it would all be clear.

I just went out and took a picture of a spare transmission for comparison. It's the perspective that makes the hole look bigger. Can't be sure without the side picture but it looks like the "ears" are broken off of your shifter control arm, on the 5 speed. Do you actually have that 5 speed, the one in Post #1, or is that someone else's picture?

Actually, it's not clear what 5 speed you have there. The hole seems too big. Maybe a post-83 5 speed, a 71C.

You're right, it is. I glossed over that when pointing out the difference between the two you have. Take a picture from the side.

You'll need a "B" style shift lever. Anything from 1972 to 1983 will fit the transmission but may need bending or cutting and rewelding to fit the car. Put a Wanted ad out there and someone will have one. You might also need a longer driveshaft, if you have the forward-set differential. Can't remember when they stopped doing that. Here's a link or two with a picture of the shifter you'll need. You can get them much cheaper. zspecialties might have a stock lever also, for cheaper than their short-throw. Call them. That price is kind of ridiculous for a cut and weld on an $8 salvage yard piece. Don't know what's going on there. Not good. http://www.datsunstore.com/shifters-shortened-throw-p-1790.html http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/20-1050

Is the fuel pump mechanical or electric? Could be a voltage issue at the pump, at idle. Low fuel supply. But your description is a little unclear. You said "at idle" first, then "at any given moment". Two different situations. When at idle then at any given moment the RPM drops along with power.

Here's another good site. Looks like you have the early "A" style 4 speed. You'll probably have a problem with the shift lever hitting the edge of the hole in the body and console. People have bent shift levers or trimmed the holes larger to make it work. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/AandBtranny.htm

That doesn't seem right at all. It's just a nut, it doesn't weigh much. Did you talk to them by phone or just order through the web site? I ordered some window seals by phone and shipping was very reasonable. I hope they're not going to the dark side. Anyway, glad you have the part coming and hope it works out.

Did you order overnight shipping? That's a decent company, I'm sure they don't bloat the shipping costs. The owner's name is Oliver and he's a member of the forum.

Expensive, but available - http://www.datsunstore.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=mainshaft&osCsid=d9dd0c23dff1ed0b33ecc8b135da3d0c&x=0&y=0 Lefty cheapy, righty spendy. Seems backward, but may be because of what jmortensen says in Post #6.

Since you have a set of Tokicos you could buy the HZ3038 part number and just transfer the gland nuts and spacers (rear) from your current set over to the new ones. 3038 is the base shock, the other part numbers indicate the gland nut and spacer combinations. The 3038 seems to be available, just by looking at a quick internet search. One of the forum members seems to have them - http://www.futofab.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_images.tpl&product_id=66&category_id=17&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=81

I used Hylomar for the gasket. It's non-hardening. You might build a little stand or support for the rear half of the transmission so you can stand it on end. Then lower the front half on to it. Easier to align things. It's not what I did when I put mine together but it's what I would do if I did another. Don't forget to put the transmission in to a single gear before putting the front case on. Otherwise you'll push both shift rods at once and lock it up. That's why I appreciated the Hylomar. Someone from another forum suggested Hylomar. It works well since the case is not pressurized and the surfaces are finely machined. Some heat on the adapter plate will help the gutter go in. It helped mine come out.

Broke it. I had set the adapter plate down on the gutter and squished/squashed it. I heated up the bend and straightened it out but it was too late. After I drove it out and tried to fine tune the bend, it broke. You do need that part. Oil supply is important. If you get the right parts guy at the Nissan dealership they can find it.

I think that I have one from an old parts transmission in my garage, if it didn't get damaged. The parts are in a box. If you get in a bind, I could probably get it to you. I'm on the west side of the metro area. It would probably fit in an envelope and be covered by a stamp or two. Let me know. Not a big deal.