Zed Head

The shiny links are only there for the first installation, to make it easier. After the chain is installed, they'll only be right every X number of rotations. It's the notch and groove, and ignition timing mark, that you use after the engine's been rotated.

Does anyone know why Bob Is The Oil Guy? Isn't it just another forum with people like us on it? I see articles with names attached, but no credentials. And who, exactly, is Bob?

Cool document. If you don't add it to the Downloads area I probably will in a few days.

Worst case, use the front case to make a more modern transmission. Sell the servo synchro parts to the racers out there that are also in your boat. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm

I was thinking more along the lines that an engine that sits will get a small amount of surface rust on the cylinder walls, maybe a valve seat or two (two or three of the valves will be open while sitting), and the oil will drain from the rings and cylinder walls. Even in brand new engines. If you just went straight to a leak-down test on an en engine that's been sitting, without spinning the engine or running it, results would be expectedly iffy.

Weird. Plain old 77-78 ratios but with steel servo type synchros. What do you do with that?

Here are some sources. You're going to need a bigger phone. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/ http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/F77ZCAR-WIRING1.pdf

I'm going to sound a little bit parrot-like, but we could use a better description. You said that you tested the harness and popped the circuit break on two of the contacts. Hard to understand. Do you mean that you blew two fuses? We don't call them circuit breakers even though that's what fuses do. And proper testing procedure doesn't blow fuses. So that's an issue.

I saw Namerow's comment on flow direction but didn't ponder it deeply. If direction was determined form the test procedure , maybe that's where the question develops. Direction for testing probably wouldn't matter. The flow diagram shows flow from the housing, through the manifolds, and to the water pump outlet.

Interesting also to note that Nissan put so much effort, including a page and a half in the FSM, in to a tiny device that hardly anybody knows about. It must be solving some problem. Automakers are notoriously cheap.

I used it until I picked up a very worn ZX 5 speed, then I went to a mysterious controversial blend (SWEPCO 201 w/ATF). MT-90 works great in good condition transmissions. It even fixed a 3rd gear high RPM grinding problem in a 1978 5 speed, over plain old Valvoline 75W-90 gear oil. I used my leftover MT-90 in my Pathfinder 5 speed. Works great there too.

Thanks for adding. Hope I'm not blowing up biodi's thread. It looks like the servo synchro problem has been confusing people for many years. Found another old thread that suggests improper fluid can cause problems. SWEPCO raises its head again, JMortensen's favorite from his Porsche days. Maybe the Redline MT90 isn't the best for this transmission? Who knows. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=508611 p.s. I think that baulk essentially means "stop", which is what the rings do in a relative way. So both servo and borg warner style should both be baulk rings. People seem to be using "baulk" to differentiate. Anther confusion.

Odd - http://www.partsbase.org/parts/nissan-c010022500/

What's the pressure plate number? Just for reference. And, maybe, at least, you can get the right pressure plate for the odd disc and have a set. We all like pictures too, if you have them.

How long has it been since it last ran? Results from cold dry cylinders may not be very representative.

That's the thought. I'd use a momentary switch, button or rocker, so that you couldn't leave it on accidentally. Being down in TX though, you will probably rarely need the CSV. And Megasquirt probably has a Start enrichment function that adds fuel during starting, by adding injector open time. You might check the documents.

I've pondered just using a priming button. A squirt or two per start. Like pumping the gas pedal on a carb with accel pumps. After a few starts you'll know what it needs. Seems like the same could be done with the injector circuit. They probably used a separate valve to allow better vaporization before the cylinders. I only think about it because I've recently discovered that my battery is weak. Cold weather starts were more difficult and I have no CSV. A battery charge helped, of course, but it got me thinking.

I don't want to pile on. But, Mobil seems to be avoiding the whole yellow metal issue entirely. They've written their documentation in a vague way, that leaves the question unaddressed, directly. Just saying, you're probably fine. But Mobil is not going to say, one way or another. Corporate baffle-speak. http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_Syn_Gear_Lube_LS_75W-90.aspx

I added my SWEPCO file to the Downloads area. You should add your OilTek file. More info is always good.

That's a good find and an interesting paper. Unfortunately, and I hate bring out my inner cynic, it's somewhat typical of what a consulting firm will produce for a customer. It seems to address an issue but doesn't really get there. Lots of pages, but questions still unanswered. Seems to support the products of the company that paid for the report. Page 17 is the page we'd all look at for the "yellow metal" issue in manual transmissions, the synchros. But they use a copper corrosion test. Yellow metals would be alloys of copper, not pure copper. Alloys have different properties than their components so the copper test doesn't really mean too much. Also, a synchro undergoes high speed friction in use, so a simple chemical attack test would not be the best indicator of potential problems. Still, worth reading. Just add a grain of salt. Here's an old paper, attached. I found that actually calls out the "yellow metal" problem. Same issue though, it's written by the company selling the product. Here's another interesting thing - the Royal Purple product that failed the copper test, Royal Purple Max-Gear 75W-90, is called out specifically in their ad copy as okay for GL-4 manual transmissions. Hard to imagine that they would do that since it opens them up to all kinds of liability. So, in the end, we're all still wondering. http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/max-gear/ SWEPCO GL4 and 5 TG_199508.pdf

Could really use a better description of what happened. What you were doing, what the wiper motor was doing, how you were testing, what exactly you did just before it stopped working... You have a really unusual problem so I'd guess that absolutely nobody on here has ever experienced it. A guess would be that you kept pressing the button on the stalk, which activates the washer motor, and a certain number of wipes of the wipers. How many times did you press the button, what happened when it stopped, etc. Are you saying the the wiper stopped working when you pressed the button, or stopped working completely even when you turned the wiper switch. Unclear. Could be that you just burned out a relay or timer. Have you been in to the FSM yet? There are many diagnostic procedures in there.

I should have looked at more pictures. There's a Nissan FS5C71B 5-speed gearbox in the link below. Might have parts and know some potential buyers. Kind of far away though. http://lescollinsracing.com/transmission/gearbox

By the way, it doesn't seem that your rebuild kit will work, so that question might be answered. And your rebuild guy now knows more arcane Datsun transmission stuff.

So is the consensus growing that this is a Nissan Competition 5 speed with the tail shaft converted to slip-yoke? Still need the ratios to be more informed. Thanks for the puzzle. Found some more links. http://www.datsunroadster.com/PIC_PAGES/PARTS_INFO_PAGES/synchro_info.htm Doesn't look like a Roadster box - http://www.datsunroadster.us/PIC_PAGES/PARTS_INFO_PAGES/transmission_types.htm Here's a Comp box for sale, with the flanged tail - http://510forsale.blogspot.com/2009/11/1969-datsun-pl-510-road-race-car-for.html