Zed Head

I have a brass electrode cap on my engine. It's BWD brand, made at the same place as Standard. Turns out Standard makes two styles, a brass electrode model, and a T series aluminum. The T series is the economy model. Arnie probably found one and won't be back.

Assuming the transmission goes with it? We just had a whole discussion about the manifold thermostat, which can be seen in your picture. Looks like a 72 or higher L24, or an L26. Look at the flat spot above the starter for stamped/engraved letters and numbers. It will say either L24 or L26. Could also be an L28 that's had carbs installed. Not much information. Since it has no running history, it's worth less than one coming from a car. A Pick n Pull wrecking yard would charge about $250 but you'd have to remove the engine yourself, let alone find one, so yours is easier. If you just want to move it quickly, $200 would probably draw a buyer, just to have it as a spare. The 4 speed transmissions aren't worth much though. Everybody has one left in their garage after swapping a 5 speed in.

Exactly!

Interesting that the BMW's they're on use the newer style fuel pumps. Similar pump and engines overall to our Z's. Must serve some useful purpose. Looks like your local auto store might be able to get them, but you might have to ask for AC parts.

Blocking the heater hoses and the manifold line would answer some questions. Super easy. No down side, in Panama when it's 80 degrees outside.

They have them at OReilly auto.

Alright site, you made me feel bad. Removing all of my comments, useful and otherwise. He/she can start anew.

I was fixing it while you posted. I fixed the bad one.

Do over.

They really weren't that bad...

Never mind.

Where?

How did you even see that? Most of us would have just put the thing together, there would have been some odd noise during the first few clutch disengagements, and the rivet tops would have worn off. Problem only discovered, maybe, years later. Also, is it possible that you were looking at it with the disc backward? The normal contact spot, if the disc is backward, is the hub on the fly wheel bolts, but if you were just looking at disc and plate, you wouldn't notice that.

Lesson - don't make decisions during happy hour. Ponder, yes - decide, no.

Pretty sure that's a 1975 280Z brochure. The caps on the rear strut towers, one fusible link, regulator exposed, and the writing about "all the traditions of the 240Z and 260Z updated". Still makes me want to buy one. And where's my "surrounded by tinted glass"? Pretty sure my 76 doesn't have any at all.

When the wheels are hanging the u-joints of the driveshafts/halfshafts have too much angle and will bind. Clang, clang, clang as they pop around. If you want to test it on jacks spread the load with some wood under the control arms, to load the suspension and get the drive shafts in a normal position. If you want to just check u-joints, it's best to use a screwdriver to pry the joint around with a bright light so you can see any movement. Also look for rust dust around the bearing cup seals.

The shiny links are only there for the first installation, to make it easier. After the chain is installed, they'll only be right every X number of rotations. It's the notch and groove, and ignition timing mark, that you use after the engine's been rotated.

Does anyone know why Bob Is The Oil Guy? Isn't it just another forum with people like us on it? I see articles with names attached, but no credentials. And who, exactly, is Bob?

Cool document. If you don't add it to the Downloads area I probably will in a few days.

Worst case, use the front case to make a more modern transmission. Sell the servo synchro parts to the racers out there that are also in your boat. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm

I was thinking more along the lines that an engine that sits will get a small amount of surface rust on the cylinder walls, maybe a valve seat or two (two or three of the valves will be open while sitting), and the oil will drain from the rings and cylinder walls. Even in brand new engines. If you just went straight to a leak-down test on an en engine that's been sitting, without spinning the engine or running it, results would be expectedly iffy.

Weird. Plain old 77-78 ratios but with steel servo type synchros. What do you do with that?

Here are some sources. You're going to need a bigger phone. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/ http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/F77ZCAR-WIRING1.pdf

I'm going to sound a little bit parrot-like, but we could use a better description. You said that you tested the harness and popped the circuit break on two of the contacts. Hard to understand. Do you mean that you blew two fuses? We don't call them circuit breakers even though that's what fuses do. And proper testing procedure doesn't blow fuses. So that's an issue.

I saw Namerow's comment on flow direction but didn't ponder it deeply. If direction was determined form the test procedure , maybe that's where the question develops. Direction for testing probably wouldn't matter. The flow diagram shows flow from the housing, through the manifolds, and to the water pump outlet.