Zed Head

I think that I actually have a 76 that is steel, and a 78 that's aluminum. Either way, good luck with it. I'd use a file rather than a grinder, just for the precision. Manning's last chance. Got to root for the old man.

I ran something like that on my defrost circuit. The circuit has a 20 amp fuse. The Google says 12.5 amps at 150 watts / 12 volts. 10.9 at 13.8 volts. The most effective thing that I did for my back window fogging problem was to fix all of the cabin leaks and get everything dried out. I also used Rain-X on the outside of the back window. Sometimes it's the outside fogging that's the worst.

http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1982-nissan-280zx/manual-transmission-transaxle-fitting.html http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-Speedometer-Pinion-Gear-Assembly-17-Teeth-NOS-RARE/281911519035?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35220%26meid%3D73b6c4a5b3be48ba88030b8c78c06b1a%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D272044749214 (iffy, the guy doesn't know about the different slots) http://www.partsbase.org/parts/nissan-3270778000/ (click the + sign and it will show other cars that use it)

You can spin the cog body/housing 180 degrees and grind a new slot to clamp it. It's common. If you don't have the housing pressed all the way in and clamped the teeth won't mesh. You might also eyeball the gear inside the trnsmission, they get damaged easily. Plastic also. That would be a bummer. Nissan and MSA call it the "sleeve". Weird that you have a bigger gear, the 21 tooth. that worked. Maybe there's a whole other option out there for using the Z sleeve in the ZX transmission, bigger gears. Is your sleeve steel or aluminum? I have 280Z sleeves that are steel, and ZX that are aluminum. Might be a clue. Have fun.

Maybe it's just the connection points then. Found some of your old posts on the subject. Good luck.

How about a link to the part you bought? Something. Can't tell what you've got, plus I wrote a whole thing only to find out you haven't even hooked up the cable. I'd search the web for it, but there's a football game on. Remove the cog housing clamp and spin the housing to see if it grabs.

Post some part numbers, or pictures, or something more descriptive. Can't tell what you have, besides number of teeth and diameter. Where'd you buy it, what are the part numbers, what was it spec'ed for, etc? I've had problems getting the speedometer cable to engage when reattaching it. Get it all put together and it doesn't work. There's enough room in the sheath to get it screwed on, but not engaged on both ends. I've found that pulling the cable partially out and fitting the end in to the slot, then pushing both back in and screwing the clamp on works best. The speedo end seems more forgiving. If you do it this way you can also twist the cable by hand to see if it the gears have meshed.

I can't remember the details but I think that the 240Z and the 280Z use different methods for powering the head lights. The dimmer system is different I believe. Dave Irwin wrote a few posts about how a 280Z relay setup would be more difficult than the 240Z setup, if I recall right. I think that he offered but didn't get a bunch of takers. I've looked at mine and I think that you would need three relays - one for power to the lights, and one each for the grounding of each filament, high beam and low beam. The extra difficulty, besides the fact that 280Z lights don't seem to be as bad as the 240Z lights might be the reason Dave and nobody else has put one together. Plus the fact that Dave Irwin has a 240Z, not a 280Z. I put a single relay on the power supply side for my 280Z, and find that the grounds in the dimmer switch don't really need any help. So, one relay in front of the fuse box takes the load off of the switch on the column, and the dimmer switch doesn't have much resistance to worry about. The running lights are a different story, I had to dig up in the harness to find the power supply wire to get a relay installed there. Those are the two contacts on the 280Z column that get hot and pitted, the running lights and the headlights. Anyway, if you search back through Dave Irwin posts and check the 280Z diagrams you might change your mind. Or decide to go for it.

Somebody here must need this. Looks like a decent price if it's not messed up. http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/pts/5401558443.html

Another Series I car. Since it's been a topic of discussion recently... http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/5389878929.html

Don't know how this guy is but representing someone else's work as your own isn't a good way to start. Pretty pretty pretty sure the first car was done in Chicago. Kuro's car. http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/5412520106.html

There's a Z-train on Ratsun. Tucson, AZ. Active today. I'm just a newbie.

Still surprised, yet not surprised, that the ZTherapy guys didn't chime in on the thread.

Here's the two wires you could jump to power the pump. Notice that one side is always hot so the pump will run as soon as you jump those two. To be safe, measure battery voltage on one side, and pump windings resistance on the other, to make sure you have the right pins. You could also determine which is direct to ground,and avoid that one. You can also see how disconnecting the oil pressure switch will cause the pump to run. Assuming that "on" means closed. Disconnecting causes open or "off".

I think that CO may be implying the right thing, that the relay is okay. You might be on a wild goose chase, from seeing a red herring. I have had the fuel pump relay problem from a dirty AFM switch, on my 1976 car. What happens is the car will start just fine, run for about 3 seconds, then die. If you turn the key to Start real quick you can keep it running, but the grinding noise will stop you from doing that many times. But, for 1978, Nissan used the alternator and oil pressure to determine if the engine is running. So AFM switch wouldn't be the fuel pump issue with a 1978 car. But, on top of but, if it won't even try to start without starting fluid, it may not have anything to do with the fuel pump. The simple test, if you get stuck, is to hot wire the fuel pump or the pump relay or its connector, to keep the pump running. If it's a relay or pump power problem it will start and run. I've heard, but not tried it, that with everything connected correctly, removing the oil pump wire will let the pump run when the key is on. Easy to try. If it doesn't work, just jump the two spots in the fuel pump relay connector (the other relay not the one you're looking at now) that power the pump, with a short piece of wire. Also, the initial buzz that you talk about it not a design feature but some kind of odd timing phenomenon. CO and others have discussed it before. It's not a priming pulse, it's just an accident. Not supposed to happen.

In line with CO's observation, that is a fine looking set of solenoids. Look brand new. Why did you even start testing it? I notice that you said EFI issue, but you're testing pump control.

Rockauto shows it as unavailable if you try to buy one but if you click on the part number it will show all of the cars that used it. Looks like they show too many, but they also call it an AC compressor relay, so maybe it was used in two spots on some cars. https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1209934&parttype=3180&a=www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2B1982%2BNISSAN%2B310%2B1.5L%2BL4%2BElectrical-Switch%2B%2526%252338%253B%2BRelay%2BA%252FC%2BCompressor%2BRelay&blanktemplate=true

You could put a paper filter in front of the K&N.

The factory used as short a section of rubber hose as they could. Point to consider. I thought you wanted metal to follow the original metal path. You could run rubber hose all the way back to the tank and the car would drive. Heating would help but all tubing has some degree of work-hardening from its initial production, and forming to shape. You'd have to heat the tube to red-hot then let it cool. But then that section would be softer than the steel on either side. The final bends will be hard to get right, either way. 3/32" is tiny. Are you missing a digit?

K&N says that theirs makes more power, and they off a Million Mile warranty!! http://www.knfilters.com/air_filter/2011/ford/f150_svt_raptor/6.2l

Can we fit the SVT F150 filter on to our Z cars. How big is it? I'd take a shot at it. And is the same technology used in other Ford filters or just the SVT? Good stuff, real world, thanks for sharing.

I used a piece of "repair" tubing to plumb in a fuel rail. 45 degree single flares (SAE style) on the cut ends of the stock tubing. Worked very well, no leaks. Most stores have a large selection of lengths hanging behind the counter. Buy a length of repair tubing and a flare fitting to match and you're ready to go. Many stores have loaner flaring tools if you don't have your own. Example: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOE0/800156/N1650.oap?ck=Search_N1650_-1_-1&pt=N1650&ppt=C0290 The compression fitting shown would work also. I had compression fittings blocking my CSV pipe on two old fuel rails. 36 psi isn't much, even 90 wouldn't be much for a compression fitting.

I was talking about this comment - " only 2 days had passed since I'd put gas in, but not a half tank". Put a tub underneath and see if enough leaks out that it doesn't evaporate way. That would be a lot.

It is a messy place, for sure. Very exposed though so I don't think you'd get shot as long as you stayed in the open. What did you say on the note?

You seem to be implying that gallons of gas had leaked. That the gauge was much lower than expected, at 1/2, and it was still leaking (the gravel was still wet). If the tank is leaking and the gauge is at 1//2 then the filler hose is unlikely as the source. Could be one of the hoses to the fuel pump.