Everything posted by Zed Head
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Vacuum lines Destination?
The pictures aren't the greatest but many of the vacuum operated devices are emissions related. Have you checked the FSM chapters? Download it from our download area. Some of the FSM's have a section devoted just to vacuum hoses. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/4-manuals/
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Battery not charging with new 60A internal regulator alternator
I think that there's a fusible link on the charge wire. It may have blown when the smoking started and saved you from more damage. Seems like you have something wired wrong and you should probably figure it out before replacing the link, if you can find it. It should be exposed, not buried in harness wrap, so that it can be replaced. I'd start from scratch and examine all of your wiring.
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Battery not charging with new 60A internal regulator alternator
Open to where? You mean no connection to the battery? Or the new alternator? Your car has/had an ammeter. That might be where all of your problems are centered, including the smoke. I commented in general terms about why things weren't working, but someone with an ammeter probably knows the details of your situation. We could could easily get the alternator to work, using two jumper wires, but not the ammeter. Plus, the short that caused the smoke might still be there. You didn't mention the smoke before. Was it before or after the alternator swap? Might want to write up a short history of why you did the swap, when the smoke appeared, and any odd things that might have caused problems.
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1976 280Z Restoration Project
I've wondered the same. I have a set of 280 ZX 2+2 CV companion flanges. I found a somewhat confusing thread implying that there's a problem with wheel bearing sizes. I wanted the six hole CV flange in my 280Z but I'd have to go backward to 240Z axles to use them. Side note - it's kind of odd that Nissan went back to a smaller axle for a heavier (2+2), more powerful (turbo) car. Here's the thread about bearing sizes. It also has another path to 5 lugs though, that might be interesting - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103344-280zxt-stub-axle-cv-swap/ On the topic of reinforcing the holes - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116276-5-lug-hub-stub-axles-conversion-for-240z-260z-280z/ Seems like some thought about where the loads are distributed and how clamping forces work would be worthwhile. People seem to be thinking that radially directed loads are the extreme ones. Not so sure.
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1970 Z for sale
Maybe we're in the similar words zone here. In the states I can take a napkin and write "sold to john doe for $400 one 240Z", put a date and signature on it and that is a Bill of Sale. Or maybe it's the same there. I wrote up a bunch of words but it really boils down tot his question - How would a person prove ownership of a car? There must be government documentation somewhere. Which of the Two VINs in question is on that official documentation?
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1970 Z for sale
I'm seeing things on the interweb that suggest that even though the documents may not be called "Titles", there are still official documents with the VIN on them in Canada, province-generated, just like the state-generated Certificates of Title that we have here. The owner may not hold them, but the government has registration records. So I guess the question would be "what is the VIN on the official documents?" Is that about right? Or which VIN do you own?
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Shaking, back and forth motion at 1st and 2nd gear
Darn it, the site is dumping on me. Edit and Reply function getting all tied up. I'll just post a picture and a link. Fuel 1973.... file Write the text and now a the file I attached earlier that had disappeared is back. The site is saving some weird stuff.
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Shaking, back and forth motion at 1st and 2nd gear
- Shaking, back and forth motion at 1st and 2nd gear
All of the links on SU's that I find say that 5 is too high and might cause problems. I don't even know exactly how the SU's maintain pressure but spec. is 3.4 psi according to the FSM. I assume that the mechanical pumps regulate internally, and there is an orifice in the carbs that provides back pressure. You'll need a pump that regulates pressure internally if you want to continue to use that method. If you don't, again assuming, you'll have to remove the blockages to allow flow and place a regulator in line, or dead- head the carburetors and replumb them, with a regulator at the T with the return line. From what I gather, the 240Z's all have a return line so there are lots of options. You still haven't described clearly how exactly your system is plumbed though. A regulator won't do you any good unless it's plumbed correctly. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/fuel/fp202.htm Converting to mechanical might be good for you, (like a pond) - Some good information in this thread from a year and a half ago -- Oil pressure uneven
There's a spot on his Facebook page to give some feedback - https://www.facebook.com/California-Datsun-Inc-1410415502525098/reviews/- 1970 Z for sale
- 1976 280Z Restoration Project
What are you using for the work, and how? A drill press maybe, with a template? Or something more sophisticated? I've heard that some of the older flanges can get out of true over time and use. You might check run-out and fix it while they're off and the lugs are out. Could save you future balance problems. It can be especially problematic for disc brake swaps since they're more sensitive to run-out, if you're planning that in the long run.- 1970 Z for sale
Only curious. cbuczesk asked about the title VIN number but you didn't answer. Down here in the States most DMV's (Dept.'s of Motor Vehicles) do a VIN check by looking at the dash VIN. So if the dash VIN doesn't match the title whoever buys it will need to jump through a bunch of hoops. If you don't have the title, still many hoops required.- Building A L28 (Na)
Maaaann, I thought I was learning something new but now I don't know. You know I love a puzzle so I went to the Owner's Manual, and found the section. In both 77 and 78. Copied 78 here. They even describe it like I do, by my "bonus" function. They mention the seat belt buzzer and timer. Not trying to one-up, just curious. Maybe your wires are crossed (in the car, not your head). Sorry Swede, This may actually be useful in the end when you get in to the swap. If you get done and your relay is still whining, we'll know more about what to do for it. Maybe it's actually your seat belt buzzer whining.- Possible Fuel Starvation
I ran a loop in mine. Let it project then loop it around to the destination. EFI system but same problem. If you put enough loops in it your gas mileage will probably increase.- Building A L28 (Na)
Reread your post here and I think the incongruence is on the intent or the description of the intent by Nissan. Whether they intended it to show that the engine is running with the key on, or not, it does do that. As long as the brake lever is down. If the engine is running and it dies on you, the red brake light catches your eye pretty quickly. Alright, back to The Swede's issue. The alternator swap.- Building A L28 (Na)
The light goes on when the key is turned On, right? That's the "check" function. Then when the engine starts, it goes off. Pretty sure that's the same for all of them. Otherwise the light stays on all the time, or it never "checks".. So, key on/engine running = no light, key on/engine stopped = light. Multi-function. Maybe you're saying that 77 gets its brake check warning lamp relay power from somewhere else? I was just commenting on the function of the light. I powered my light from the fuel pump power so I have the original function plus my bonus function.- Building A L28 (Na)
Just thought of the other function of that light, the one that I've mainly used it for - ignition switch is on. Or - what happened? Oh, the light's on, the engine must have quit.- Building A L28 (Na)
This is why we don't past after midnight. Captain's right, it's just a bulb check relay. I'm usually the one that rights out all the words for that thing too... For a small function, it has a lot of design effort in it, and can cause fairly significant problems. It's a weird little sub-system.- What a Difference a Day Makes with RedBird
Goodbye old problems. We'll miss you...- Building A L28 (Na)
No harm, besides maybe driving around with your parking brake on. I've generally thought that its other function, of showing a brake pressure imbalance, was kind of worthless. It shows up in the brake pedal anyway.- Building A L28 (Na)
Do your colors match 76? As you note, the goal is to get the L and S wires what they need and the rest get disconnected. So a meter will tell you which is L, power with the key On, and which is S, power directly to the battery (actually to all of the loads on the system). But be careful if you have the 76 wiring, the brake check warning lamp relay is also powered from the yellow wire and will drain your battery. The external regulator must have competed that connection when the regulator powered up. I had to rewire the relay. You'll know if you have that problem because you'll hear the relay click when you reconnect the negative cable after making the connections.- Building A L28 (Na)
The external regulator also routes power to the L terminal and contains the S wire connection. That's what the rewiring is for, in the AtlanticZ writeup. I would follow the AtlanticZ writeup, there are others out there that might disable your brake warning lamp relay. I did this work on my 76 and if I was doing it again, I would just cut the plug from the old bad external regulator (leave a good amount of wire to work with, crimp the relevant wires together there, cover them with heat shrink tubing, and then plug it back in. Nice, clean, weatherproof. Don't forget to put the tubing on before the crimping. Soldering would work also.- Finishing rebuild, head back on, setting timing...
Are you talking about ignition timing or cam timing? Which marks, the notch and groove or the damper pulley marks and timing tab? How near is nowhere near? 100 degrees or 10? Maybe you have 240Z damper with a 280Z timing tab or vice versa. What parts are you working with? Another thought - the damper woodruff key is not in place. Wild guesses...- Check your T/C rod's nut!
I don't have any nylon-based lock nuts on my 76 car, and it was essentially all original when I got it. And I have a bunch of old manifold nuts from a variety of apparently factory stock Datsuns, from the two cars I've owned and wrecking yard parts, and none of them are the crimped lock style. They're all plain old nuts. I also have the MSA nut/stud package and they're just nuts, no lock. The TC rod nuts are the crimped lockers, but not locking much any more after multiple removals. And the transmission mount cross member (aka rear engine mount) nuts, the ones on the long bolts, are the crimp style, but have plenty of lock left in them after several removals. In the immortal worlds of Adam - "I reject your reality and substitute my own". A safety wire or clip through a hole on the end of the rod would be a simple thing to do. You'd save the nut and washer if it got loose while you were trying to figure out your squirrelly steering problem. - Shaking, back and forth motion at 1st and 2nd gear
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