Zed Head

The Crane 6300 instructions above imply that the OE ignition module, in the OP's case the ignitor or power transistor, is used to trigger the Crane system. Basically, the system needs to be set up with the stock power transistor, then the Crane box is inserted in between. Might be possible to replace the PT, but that's not what Crane is saying.

And, to be clear, when Crane says magnetic trigger they mean a variable reluctor trigger. Which is a sine wave of varying voltage, from very low (below 5 volts) to very high (well above 12), not a square wave. Many people do run the GM HEI module on the square wave from the 280ZX turbo ECCS system, even though it's also designed for GM's HEI magnetic trigger. Maybe somebody has discovered that the Crane will do the same? I think we'd both agree that it's not intended for this application. Not even sure how it got in there unless somebody put together one of those name lists. This isn't the best learning project for the OP. But there's a lot of interesting stuff there. Summit always has the best information - http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/crn-6000-6300.pdf Edit - wrong part number. Fixed.

This thread isn't really about the Crane system at all. The OP might be better served to go back to an ignitor until he gets the basics sorted. Here's a document showing similar to what he's dealing with. Already pretty complicated. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/280Z31-INJ-MAF-88ECU-UPGRADE-6pg-Revised-12-11-13.pdf

Not sure what you mean by "CPS". You really need to browse through the Z31 EFEC chapter to see how the ignition power transistor is triggered. Your Crane box is taking the place of the power transistor. It doesn't get power all the time when the key is On (if that's what you meant by CPS). No offense, but you are way behind where you should be to safely get that engine running. And I mean safe for the engine. You thought you had a magnetic trigger in the distributor because you have a magnetic trigger Crane box, and now you're checking for power at the Crane box with the key on. You have enough information to figure it out but I don't think it's going to happen on an XBOX. As I said, no offense intended. Your stumbling and fumbling at this point though. A good computer and internet connection is an important tool. Edit - you probably meant CAS instead of CPS. Diagnosing the CAS is a problem that everybody has. The best description I've seen is on Hybridz. Scroll down to "Dizzy Wire Colors!" - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/23244-megasquirtnspark-mssmsns-installation-guide/

He'd be using the 5 volt square wave from the Z31 ECU, if anything. He has a lot more to think about than just the Crane box. Better understand all of it before taking it out on the road. And he said he has an " in cockpit crane retard control". Which would be the Crane HI-6 TRC CD. Lots of stuff to figure out.

Who knows what else has been done to it - http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/5562702804.html

I've done similar things in the past. One of the great things about these old cars is that they are primitive enough that you can understand things at a fundamental level, to fix problems. Ponder how duct tape on the outside is going to withstand the pressure from the inside. It's not really doing anything. The "SS" brake lines are really just brake hoses with a braided metal protective sheath in place of rubber (which is probably fiber reinforced). More durable, but most likely have little effect on performance. I have a set up front myself, but don't know if I'd buy another. When your brakes were slowly dying, the first thing you should have done, probably, is to bleed them. And, as I understand things, when the reaction disc is missing the symptom is an on-off brake action. Probably why they call it a reaction disc. It moderates the reaction. The disc in in the booster, not the MC.

The chest pounder says that some flow back to the pump when the thermostat is closed is necessary to prevent cavitation. Since you've closed off the manifold/carb route maybe another line is needed. I wonder if How to Modify book has some suggestions. Edit - nothing there. They run open flow restrictors. I don't even know why that "jiggle valve" piece is there. http://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hcc/2005/02/Some-Like-It-Hot/1281095.html

The various transmissions out there have a variety of switches. Reverse, top gear, neutral.

I would pull the front bearing cover (the small one inside the bell) first. There's a guy on Hybridz who posted last week saying that he blew up a countershaft bearing. If it was the front bearing you could probably devise a way to pull it alone and replace just it then run it as the used transmission that it is, without tearing it down. Or, you could pull the front case/bell and replace just the two front bearings. Rebuilds are always a matter of degree. There's another guy on Hybridz who basically blueprinted his transmission, every measurement in spec., then modified it even further for high RPM shifting.

I've found that the rubber jack stand covers HF sells are helpful in reducing damage from the odd shape of the stand head. The 3 tons were high enough for me, if I recall right. Gotta get out that tape measure. I also have a collection of wood pieces of various thicknesses and shapes that I place between the stand head and the car part, when appropriate. They spread the load, top and bottom.

The engine blocks have letters and numbers stamped-engraved on the upper right back edge that identify what they were when they came from the factory. The heads have letter-numbers molded in to the lower front right edge. Those are what people use, not year of car. Too much modding and swapping to tell what's what by year. The interior parts are probably all 77 and most of them are probably unique to 77 and 78. I'd start taking pictures and posting them here. Even if somebody pays a visit, you'll need to do that anyway. Heads are typically an assembly of head, cam, and valve train. If it's bare, it's worth less than complete, for example.

there are four different mustache bars out there. they have part numbers painted on them. if yours isnt red yet you could check that number

Now you know where the 98.5% came from. Escrow was the word I was trying to think of when I suggested using an agent. As far as US versus Europe, I think it's easier to sue somebody in the US. But a good escrow transaction makes that unnecessary. The deal's not complete until both parties are satisfied. It unwinds if conditions can't be met.

Dave WM just tore his transmission down. The FSM goes in to pretty good detail about how to do it. When the cage comes out the bearings can all move to one side. It basically just increases the slop in the bearing assembly. The bearing is in the adapter plate. If the transmission works fine, why replace everything? Old factory parts are often better than new aftermarket. Sqwawk. The rebuild parts market for these transmissions is full of misinformation.

considering your early vin number issues maybe somebody just jammed the diff in with the wrong parts. mgith want to start over

That's not a bad idea. I don't know if the console is ABS or some other plastic, but ABS cement would probably do the job. I would add some reinforcement, like glass mat. I have a cracked console too. Might give that a look.

Don't overlook that eBay ratings are essentially worthless. They can be gamed, most sellers will never give a negative rating to another eBay user because they'll get false negatives back in retribution. So a 98.5% could easily be an actual 75%. Not to cause undue worry, but using an agent to ensure a proper and legal transaction might be worth the fee. There are lots of scammers out there, who use the fine print to make their money. And eBay, PayPal, etc. will only go so far in resolving a dispute. People get screwed often through internet transactions.

Are you sure it's the throwout bearing? It's common, apparently, for the transmission countershaft bearing to do that. Everybody has it.

you posted a picture of how it came out of the car in your own build thread. could be the body is not quite right. you could take a measurement. maybe someone will take the same to compare.

Lifetime warranty, endless exchanges! All I need is my name and phone number at OReilly and they can tell me if I get free exchanges. No receipt necessary. My "brand new" replacement reman alternator has been sitting on the shelf in my garage for about 4 years.

We have a Cool Hand Luke situation here. F and N are the T plug terminals. You circled what could be used as E, for ground (the whole case is grounded). So that would be right. I would take the T plug off and measure resistance to ground from each female pin. Maybe you pinched a wire or have a short in your regulator. Then you could also measure power there with your meter, and the key On. Edit - added an F and N picture.

I don't think that's right. Resistance between F and ground (E) should be 5 ohms, according to FSM. If you have F connected to ground that might be your problem. F is for Field and is a wire that gets power when the key is On.

Hey, I'm not sure I'm writing right. It is clear that the 77 alternator IS NOT the alternator to use with Dave Irwin's ZXP plug, right? Or are you still using the external regulator? If so, that 77 alternator should function the same way, just put out more amps at full output. When you mentioned Dave Irwin's pug, I assumed that you were using one. Maybe not.

If those two were sitting in front of me I'd measure resistance to ground through F and N on both. If they're both the same and they both worked with the external regulator that would tell something. Alternators do short internally sometimes. Still need the right alternator though, in the long run.