Zed Head

Anybody out there know why spell check would stop working on the site? Seems to have happened right after a Windows update. It's checked as on in Settings but doesn't work on any forum type web sites. Still works in Outlook email though.

Interesting low number 1970 on BaT. The seller is not really pushing the uniqueness angle. He says $10,000 reserve, but BaT says No Reserve. He might get it anyway, if a collector/restorer gets interested. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-115/

The gasoline does not soak in to the metal. If you fill the tank with water once and empty it it will be purged of all flammable material. Gasoline is partially soluble in water, so any crevices, cracks, or rusty spots will be extracted of their tiny amount residual liquid gasoline. Dry ice would work well too, after all of the liquid gasoline is removed. If there is liquid left in the tank the CO2 will push out the vapors but the liquid will revaporize once the CO2 is gone. One reason that CO2 works well also is becuase it displaces the oxygen. No oxygen, no flame. But CO2 is also dangerous for that reason. Closed spaces and all that, plus the possibility of freeze-burns. Water is cheap, safe, and easy. The hardest part is getting the insides dried out afterward. I'd just use water. CO2 is great for underground tanks because they're big and you'd have to pump out the water if you used it. But a Z tank can be tossed around pretty easy. Why is my spell-check not working anymore... p.s. I've taken some classes where these types of subjects were studied.

More heat? Make sure the heat is focused on the parts that need to expand. The casting that holds the outer race or the bearing inner race. Not the axle shaft. Looking at the drawing, a torch flame on the casting/housing is your best bet. Inner and outer so the bearing races get hot too. If the grease isn't smoking there's room for more heat.

It's a no reserve have fun big bumper last year 280Z driver. Not a 71 collector model restoration worthy investement. Don't get too carried away in the critiques. It's for the guy who wants a drivable hobby car. Or a quick flip. Buy it, get it running, keep another Z on the streets, make a few bucks.

Here's a good basic 280Z for somebody that wants to get in to the Z world and drive one without spending too much. Lots of nickels and dimes waiting to be spent but it should be pretty easy to get back in to good running shape. Might even make a good "will it run and drive XX miles" video. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-158/

Measurement of the inside diameter and pictures of the surfaces will tell the story. There's a limit, it's marked on the drum itself. Borrowed this from an eBay ad. He wants a lot but didn't provide the critical information. A shop won't turn a drum beyond the limit.

I actually did check all of the washer part numbers on the internet. None of them came up as the "D" washer shape. Who knows. Maybe they were only "D" on the assembly line, and normal as a replacement part https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-washer~08915-43610.html

I'm really just here for the puzzle. Can't find them on carpartsmanual but they do seem to be a thing. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-112/

Where would a "D" washer be used on a fender? I didn't even know what one was so I got on the Google. And there are several shapes/types that are apparently called D washers. Maybe add some description? https://www.google.com/search?q=d+washer

And don't forget to run the clutch disc up and down the main shaft to be sure it moves freely.

Might as well pile on with more stuff. How does the nose look, where the throwout bearing rides? They do wear, but you have the cast iron cover so it's probably fine.

If you have a new shaft seal installed then just clean surfaces and a new gasket should do it. Here's an odd thing I ran across once though - the clutch fork pivot pin threads leaked fluid. It took me a while to figure out the fluid ran down the fork and off the end of it to the ground. A weird leak. If you had that out, or even if you didn't, I would use some thread sealer on the threads. The lock washer is not a sealing washer. Also, don't forget the countershaft bearing shim.

I was just properly defining the words. You can't have a good debate if people use the wrong words.

Thanks for the follow-up. These weird problems need examples. Good luck with the project, you're at the right Z forum.

I discovered this exact problem on a completely stock 1978 parts car. It would not actuate the injectors if the tachometer was disconnected. Apparently, some 280Z's will and some won't. I confirmed it a few different times on the 78 and my 1976 car. You'll find people that say theirs starts just fine without the tach and others like me who say it won't. After I switched to a different ignition system it didn't matter if the tach was connected or not it always started. So it seems like the ECU is very sensitive to what's happening on Pin 1. Short answer - you're probably right and it will probably start right up if you connect the tachometer. It's probably not the ECU. You did all of the right testing too. Good luck. . . .

Yes. As stated.

If the goal is to just get a few seconds of power to the pump when the key is turned on you could tap in to the pump power wire anywhere. It runs down the outside of the floor under the carpet on the passenger side on the 76's. You could even backprobe the plug, there's a connection there. That's what I did to power the brake warning check lamp relay.

Here's some expensive examples. Is the goal cheap, effective, or both? https://www.delcity.net/productsearch?search=time+delay+relay&x=0&y=0&it=

I was showing that the 280Z instructions are different. I didn't look at the ZX instructions. Looks a lot more complex.

I was incorrect. Apparently Nissan says the molding is removable separately. I must have seen comments from the internet instead. I'm sure it's much easier with newer still flexible rubber. Here's 1978. "Be careful not to deform the molding". They knew.

I don't know much about it, but I do remember painfully prying out my metal trim to try to get under the edge of the rubber seal to seal a leak (it didn't work). Then realizing later, after reading various accounts, that you're supposed to cut the old seal out and the trim comes with it. In other words, the metal trim is only meant to be installed with new rubber. The system is not designed for non-destructive disassembly.

It should. Most do. The old original FPR's are known to leak down. It just takes a little bit of rust at the seat surfaces.

If the AAR closes to the same spot consistently, but idle speed varies, then the problem is not in the AAR. My AAR worked correctly, and idle speed was consistent after warm-up. In the end, I was lucky enough to experience an engine with everything working correctly. But I also went through the phase of looking for alternative solutions. The factory parts will give consistent cold start and warm-up to a properly idling and performing engine, if they are working as they were meant to work.

An AAR that works correctly is pretty satisfying. It just works. Your varying idle speed might be due to one of your other problems, not the AAR. If you apply 12 volts to the AAR pins and it doesn't close completely, it's broke.