Pomorza

@grannyknot DMed you

Hey mates Quick question. Is there any difference between the steering column covers between years (as in will a 240 one fit on a 280)? The lower section of my 76' was left in the Arizona sun (...yea smart on my part) and deformed to the point where its unusable. Thank you Jan

The charge light was not on no. By no charge I mean the gauge was showing me 12V. When I got to work and turned off my headlights the fan started blowing a lot more. The L wire on the T plug, which wire would that be? Cheers

Hello all This morning - it was 28°F - while driving to work my alternator decided that it had enough of my crap. Gauge showed absolutely no charging and the fan was having a hard time blowing any amount of air with the headlights on. Got to work turned the Z off. Got a DMM out start the car and magic the alternator works again. Its been making bad bearing noises in the past couple of weeks so upon arriving home I decided to just swap it out with a refurbished one. Come to find that the little capacitor looking thing - I'm guessing it would be the condenser is no longer connected to any part of the loom. So a few questions. 1. Is the condenser needed? I don't actually have a radio in my car and I've read that this is what this is for. 2. My voltage regulator is rather new - its 9 years old and its the newer type regulators (i.e not the massive one with the posts and all from the 70's). Are these prone to going bad? 3. Anyone ever have an alternator stop/start working randomly? Cheers Jan

It was just a flat piece and I figured it out literally a few minutes after I posted this. There is a tube that runs under the throttle body that allows air from in front of the butterfly into the intake - and this flat piece sadly does not stop this air. Ruined a perfectly good throttle body gasket to figure this out. Would filling this with some good old silicone do the trick (black RTV letting it dry over night) or should I do a more thorough job? Cheers Jan

Hi mates This afternoon I took the throttle body of the Z to get rid of the BCDD - it hasn't worked since I bought the car and I got a block off plate for Christmas. Took everything part and cleaned with engine degreaser, water and then blow dry with air. (I don't have a TPS I use aftermarket EFI so there are no sensors on the TB). I left it out for about an hour to let it dry even more. Put everything back together - I used RTV sealant on the block off plate and have a new gasket between the throttle body and the intake manifold. I noticed the idle screw was in as far as it could - the throttle body was as shut as it could be. Start the car and the damn thing goes to 1700 RPM right away. I've tightened the bolts down as much as I'm wanting to as I don't want to break them. Any ideas? Thank you Merry Chrismas Jan

Shims? I did not know that the hatch had shims, I didn't see any when I took mine off.

To explain the last time I did this which was a few years ago I took the hatch off - in the process almost breaking it - installed new seals and waited a few hours for them to dry in place. Then I put the hatch back on and when I went to close the hatch the freshly placed seals were literally ripped off by the hatch closing. I live in Arizona so it doesn't rain very often but when it does my whole interior gets pretty wet. Both the inner and outer seals broke on the top, but just along the top.

Hey mates It appears that the one piece rubber outer hatch seal - the thin one that goes outside - is broken an allowing rainwater in. I've had issues installing these in the past - I've broken two right out of the box when I shut my hatch. Is there a special way of doing these where they don't break? Is there any rubber seals I should avoid? Any place to get OE ones? Cheers Jan

The gears all looked to be all in order. I'm going to take it apart this week and take many pictures on the disassembly and reassembly.

Sweaty I used dry graphite lubricant on everything. I just don't really know what to do. It keeps getting stuck and thus I don't know my miles - and I'm really anal about knowing how far my Z drives and such.

Hello all This past Wednesday I noticed that my odometer had stopped working - both of them. If I remember correctly - and someone please advise if I'm wrong - but the trip odometer has to work for the actual odometer to work . So I reset the trip odometer and all was well (both were now working) until it reached 1.0. Odometer froze. Moved it a bit with the reset tab and it kept on, until, you guess it 2.0 where it froze again. Got home yesterday, pulled the speedo out, cleaned all the gears and lubricated everything but the numbers themselves on the trip odometer. Replaced everything - in the processes loosing the one tiny screw that holds the reset cable on. Drove it today and all was well until it reached 5.0, at which point it yet again froze. Reset it and it would go a few miles and then freeze again. Before I dismantle the speedo again and lubricate everything has anyone ever had this problem and how did you fix it? Thanks all jan

I run a wix filter, which I'm sure has an anti-drain back valve, but I'll give it a try. The pressure takes a few seconds to get up but no different then before. Its possible I have a faulty oil filter so I'll give it a shot on the next oil change, which is coming up soon

Its an N47 head so I don't believe so.

Hey mates So for the past couple of days when I start in the Z in the mornings - and in the afternoons after work - it makes a very quick knocking noise - lasts about three seconds maybe four. Once the noise goes away it doesn't come back. Engine doesn't seem to be low on power, isn't smoking and isn't consuming anymore oil then it already does (I have bad valve seals). I adjusted the valves about five months ago and other than the #6 exhaust valve they were fairly dead on before I did them. The only change in my maintenance has been to switch oils from Rotella T to Amsoil 10-40 (the one with high zinc - which actually makes the car run cooler and does - according to my arse dyno - give me more power). Any thoughts? Suggestions? Cheers mates Jan

Hello ladies and gents Well the most dreaded thing has happened, the unit itself is now leaking. I replaced the o ring a few months back and everything was peachy. Came out this past Monday to find a fairly largish puddle of fuel under my car. Took it to the shop today and long and behold the unit itself is leaking. Being that's its a 76, it appears that these aren't really available anywhere. Does anyone have any suggestions other than JB welding it? Is there a aftermarket replacement I can use? Cheers Jan

A bit over a week

That's what I was expecting. Thanks mates for the response.

Hey mates I've begun to have an issue I'm hoping someone can help me with. My drivers side door locks itself when the door closes, great when I'm being lazy but not so much when the keys are still in it. I took the door panel off this but don't really see anything wrong. Anyone have this kind of issue and how did you solve it? Cheers

Has anyone ever bought parts from http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/? They have new aftermarket parts which seem to be what I need, but would like everyone's opinion if possible. Thanks Jan

Hey mates It has come to that time when my interior door panel has, broken is a nice way to put it. Is there any difference between the 280z door panels? I've found replacement ones - new ones apparently - but it states they're for 77-78 280z, and mine is a 76. Is there actually a difference here? Thanks Jan

Hey mates This past Saturday I replaced my old and destroyed rear strut mounts on my 76' Z. While I was there I readjusted the rear drums as they seemed quite loose. Everything seemed fine until later this evening when I went for a cruise. At red lights it seemed that the brakes would stick - car wouldn't move back when the car sat on a slight angle. When I got home the driver's side brake was quite hot to the touch. I've been having issues with these brakes for months now and am really at my whits end. I've adjusted and readjusted these a few times now. I've replaced everything on these but the wheel cylinders and those aren't leaking. Could my master cylinder not be releasing pressure? Would fluid shoot out if when the bleeder was opened if this was the case? Thanks guys Jan

Do you happen to have a wiring diagram or pictures of how to set up the relays - I'm assuming there's going to be two.

Hey mates This past weekend my headlights went out on the Z. I updated to an H4 conversion when I first got the car but since I'm already in there I do have a few questions. Is there any issue running a higher wattage bulb on the stock harness - without a relay? Thanks Jan

Zed Head The shoes are a year old and have 10k on them. There's plenty of material on them. Other than being a bit glazed I don't see any issues with the shoes. @hodgium-maximus The squealing only occurs when I use the brakes and only really at slower speeds (coming to a stop for example). It does get louder the more I use the brakes. Jan