Pomorza

Zed Head. Yea I understand the fuel pressure drop after the pump is off. I run an updated EFI system so I can pressurize the system before having to start it. Thanks for the advice Cheers Jan

Let me rephrase that. I've did a really quick google search last evening on adjustable FPRs for 280z. The third link down was Zcar depot which has a whole rail and FPR setup. The FPR - based on their information - runs at 40 psi. Clearly this wasn't an intensive attempt at research but I figured a few people here might have updated their fuel rails and was wondering what FPRs they use - I guess I may have asked the question incorrectly. Cheers

Hey mates Has anyone updated their fuel rail to something like the pallnet or similar and run an after market adjustable FPR? Which ones do y'all use? The ones I'm finding are all 40 PSI + which is ever so slightly above the stock 36 PSI. Thanks Cheers

Hey mates A few months back I completely R&Red the cooling system on my Z. New Radiator, hoses, pump fan and fan clutch - everything but the radiator was from Zcardepot. Also did the thermostat and gaskets there. The cooling system works wonderful the only issue I'm running into is that the fan is on, all the dam time. It was never like this before I replaced the clutch and it seems a bit overkill to me (I know I live in Arizona but still). I know these clutches can be rebuilt but has anyone run into this issue with a brand new clutch? Thanks Cheers.

Hey mates Since the temps are over 100 here in the desert I figured this weekend would be the perfect time to replace the u joints on the half shafts (axle shafts). I spent most today getting the U joints out of the axle shafts. Before putting the new ones on I ran into the dreaded "while I'm here" moments and inspected the boots. While they aren't in the worse shape both seem to have small tears in them. Replacing these requires disassembly of the axles, which I went ahead and did. Does anyone have an recommendations on what type of grease to use on the inside of the axle shafts? The FSM doesn't really define it in a meaningful way other than multipurpose. Would plain wheel bearing grease do the trick? Thanks Cheers Jan

Hey mates This up coming weekend I'm going to be replacing the shocks on the Z. While I have the front struts out of the car I figured (..you know while I'm already here...) I might as well do the strut bearing - the bearing on the top of the strut. Does anyone happen to know off hand an off the shelf part number for these? How difficult are they to do? Thanks Cheers Jan

Mate that looks fine, I can more than likely fix that. If you're serious about sending it let me know Cheers Jan

@grannyknot DMed you

Hey mates Quick question. Is there any difference between the steering column covers between years (as in will a 240 one fit on a 280)? The lower section of my 76' was left in the Arizona sun (...yea smart on my part) and deformed to the point where its unusable. Thank you Jan

The charge light was not on no. By no charge I mean the gauge was showing me 12V. When I got to work and turned off my headlights the fan started blowing a lot more. The L wire on the T plug, which wire would that be? Cheers

Hello all This morning - it was 28°F - while driving to work my alternator decided that it had enough of my crap. Gauge showed absolutely no charging and the fan was having a hard time blowing any amount of air with the headlights on. Got to work turned the Z off. Got a DMM out start the car and magic the alternator works again. Its been making bad bearing noises in the past couple of weeks so upon arriving home I decided to just swap it out with a refurbished one. Come to find that the little capacitor looking thing - I'm guessing it would be the condenser is no longer connected to any part of the loom. So a few questions. 1. Is the condenser needed? I don't actually have a radio in my car and I've read that this is what this is for. 2. My voltage regulator is rather new - its 9 years old and its the newer type regulators (i.e not the massive one with the posts and all from the 70's). Are these prone to going bad? 3. Anyone ever have an alternator stop/start working randomly? Cheers Jan

It was just a flat piece and I figured it out literally a few minutes after I posted this. There is a tube that runs under the throttle body that allows air from in front of the butterfly into the intake - and this flat piece sadly does not stop this air. Ruined a perfectly good throttle body gasket to figure this out. Would filling this with some good old silicone do the trick (black RTV letting it dry over night) or should I do a more thorough job? Cheers Jan

Hi mates This afternoon I took the throttle body of the Z to get rid of the BCDD - it hasn't worked since I bought the car and I got a block off plate for Christmas. Took everything part and cleaned with engine degreaser, water and then blow dry with air. (I don't have a TPS I use aftermarket EFI so there are no sensors on the TB). I left it out for about an hour to let it dry even more. Put everything back together - I used RTV sealant on the block off plate and have a new gasket between the throttle body and the intake manifold. I noticed the idle screw was in as far as it could - the throttle body was as shut as it could be. Start the car and the damn thing goes to 1700 RPM right away. I've tightened the bolts down as much as I'm wanting to as I don't want to break them. Any ideas? Thank you Merry Chrismas Jan

Shims? I did not know that the hatch had shims, I didn't see any when I took mine off.

To explain the last time I did this which was a few years ago I took the hatch off - in the process almost breaking it - installed new seals and waited a few hours for them to dry in place. Then I put the hatch back on and when I went to close the hatch the freshly placed seals were literally ripped off by the hatch closing. I live in Arizona so it doesn't rain very often but when it does my whole interior gets pretty wet. Both the inner and outer seals broke on the top, but just along the top.

Hey mates It appears that the one piece rubber outer hatch seal - the thin one that goes outside - is broken an allowing rainwater in. I've had issues installing these in the past - I've broken two right out of the box when I shut my hatch. Is there a special way of doing these where they don't break? Is there any rubber seals I should avoid? Any place to get OE ones? Cheers Jan

The gears all looked to be all in order. I'm going to take it apart this week and take many pictures on the disassembly and reassembly.

Sweaty I used dry graphite lubricant on everything. I just don't really know what to do. It keeps getting stuck and thus I don't know my miles - and I'm really anal about knowing how far my Z drives and such.

Hello all This past Wednesday I noticed that my odometer had stopped working - both of them. If I remember correctly - and someone please advise if I'm wrong - but the trip odometer has to work for the actual odometer to work . So I reset the trip odometer and all was well (both were now working) until it reached 1.0. Odometer froze. Moved it a bit with the reset tab and it kept on, until, you guess it 2.0 where it froze again. Got home yesterday, pulled the speedo out, cleaned all the gears and lubricated everything but the numbers themselves on the trip odometer. Replaced everything - in the processes loosing the one tiny screw that holds the reset cable on. Drove it today and all was well until it reached 5.0, at which point it yet again froze. Reset it and it would go a few miles and then freeze again. Before I dismantle the speedo again and lubricate everything has anyone ever had this problem and how did you fix it? Thanks all jan

I run a wix filter, which I'm sure has an anti-drain back valve, but I'll give it a try. The pressure takes a few seconds to get up but no different then before. Its possible I have a faulty oil filter so I'll give it a shot on the next oil change, which is coming up soon

Its an N47 head so I don't believe so.

Hey mates So for the past couple of days when I start in the Z in the mornings - and in the afternoons after work - it makes a very quick knocking noise - lasts about three seconds maybe four. Once the noise goes away it doesn't come back. Engine doesn't seem to be low on power, isn't smoking and isn't consuming anymore oil then it already does (I have bad valve seals). I adjusted the valves about five months ago and other than the #6 exhaust valve they were fairly dead on before I did them. The only change in my maintenance has been to switch oils from Rotella T to Amsoil 10-40 (the one with high zinc - which actually makes the car run cooler and does - according to my arse dyno - give me more power). Any thoughts? Suggestions? Cheers mates Jan

Hello ladies and gents Well the most dreaded thing has happened, the unit itself is now leaking. I replaced the o ring a few months back and everything was peachy. Came out this past Monday to find a fairly largish puddle of fuel under my car. Took it to the shop today and long and behold the unit itself is leaking. Being that's its a 76, it appears that these aren't really available anywhere. Does anyone have any suggestions other than JB welding it? Is there a aftermarket replacement I can use? Cheers Jan

A bit over a week

That's what I was expecting. Thanks mates for the response.