Pomorza

For reference how much did you pay for this rebuild. Mine is making noise in 5th gear and would like to know a ball park estimate here. Thanks Jan

Before you do anything I would have the battery checked to make sure that it has enough amps to get the starter going. From the diagnosis it sounds to me that your starter maybe in need of a good look over but test the battery first. Jan

Changed the voltage regulator today. Noticed two things. One the new regulator is roughly half the size of the old one. Secondly, upon opening the old regulator I noticed that one of the coils was burnt out. The little orange paper that surrounded it was all black and brown. So I'm guessing that was the problem. When I restarted the car (after stripping two of the mounting bolts) the voltage gauge sits right under 16 volts. When I turn on the lights it goes down for maybe a second and then returns to where it was. Thanks Jan P.S Pictures below of the old/new regulator for reference.

I'll use it on my next oil change. I did added about a third of a bottle of seafoam into the oil earlier and drove the Z rather harshly. (kept it in 4th on the freeway, shifted at four that type of deal, nothing too extreme). Afterwords I did an oil change using 10W40 and did another seafoam run through the intake. Smoked for a good ten minutes. Sounds seems to still be there but I'll check in the morning. I may use that lucas oil stuff next time I do an oil change. You said you substitute one quart of oil for that stuff? So 4qtrs oil 1qrt Lucas? Thanks for all the help Jan

Thanks for the advise. The oil pressure gauge always shows at least half. I haven't put a different gauge on it but I can't see how it can differ much from what the gauge shows. I can get a hold of a different gauge but I'm pretty sure that pressure is where it should be. As for the belts. I'm only running one belt (wp,alt, engine) so unless my BRAND new put is loud I can't see it being that. I have done a stethoscope the first time it did this and it SOUNDED like it was coming from the flat part of the transmission (right where it meets the engine). I can't envision it being anything clutch/transmission related as the noise is there with the clutch in and out. That and the fact that engine noises like to travel makes me believe its engine related. I was thinking of using that Lucas stuff. What exactly does it do? I have read reviews but again those are REVIEWS. Jan

Took the alternator to the repair place today. Tested perfectly. 60A 13.5V. Did note that the lower mounting bolts were loose. Reinstalled them tightly and made sure all is good. I'm still going to replace the regulator as it's still overcharging at times. Jan

I'm also going to run a bit of Seafoam through the oil before I change it. I can't see it being anything related to the valves. I've check them with you, I've checked them at home. There doesn't seem to be anything loose even when the car is at top dead center. This problem is just leading me to pull my hair out at times. I have alot of it so I guess that's what the idea is I guess. It seems that this car has a mind of its own. It'll do one thing on day and then act completely different the next. Thanks guy Jan P.S Please don't turn this post into a pissing contest about who knows what about whatever. It's not worth your time or energy.

It did yes, but now that noise is back. Its one of those WTF moments. I drove home and it magically returned the other day. We'll see how it runs after the new new oil change. Jan

That's not true. The sound was there before we changed the chain. That was our number one reason for changing it was that we thought (and with the amount of stretch it had rightly) that I had chain slap. Jan

is the video. It is a rather poor quality but about 6 seconds in you can hear the sound I'm talking about. I'm sorry I don't have a very good camera so this is as good as I can do it. You can hear it also everytime I release the throttle. Jan

While I agree with everything everyone here has said the issue is still why it went away and came back. If it was in fact the harmonic balancer or the cam chain/gear or tensioner how would running a thinner grade oil make the noise go way? And if it was something mechanical how did running sea foma through the intake make the noise diminish and finally go away? The harmonic balancer is tightened to 100 ft lbs or torque by two different wrenches twice. The cam gear is tightened to ~40 ft lbs again by two difference wrenches twice. I did the timing chain with the help of Z train and I'm positive that we did it right. I've checked and rechecked the cam and chain. It has a bit of play (the chain) but not enough to make the noise I'm hearing. I'll try to make a video tomorrow afternoon (2pm Arizona time) and post it here. From there I can only hope that someone has heard the noise before. At the moment I'm planning on switching back to 10W40 and running another treatment of sea foam and see where it went from there. For reference. The noise occurs using Valvoline 20W50 VR1 oil and a Fram TG filter. (and it is NOT the filter as I've run both Wix and higher end filters with no change). When I used mobile 5000 10W40 the noise did occur but went away after some seafoaming action. There's a post here someplace about this same noise. I can find it if that is needed. Jan

I get your point. I'll try to get a video up later this week if I can find the time. Jan

I don't see sludge being in the oil passages as I've run two different desluging agents in the engine. I've inspected the cam and all the oiling holes look good. When the car is running (with valve cover off) there is equal amounts of oil coming from the cam oiling holes. Jan

Hi all Three months ago I did an oil change in my Z. I decided to run a lower weight oil (10W40) as, well it was on sale. In the past (I'm sure you guys might remember) I had a rather interesting noise coming from the top end. Well after this oil change I ran a can of seafoam through the intake and the noise all but disappeared. This evening I did another oil change. I went back to the 20W50 oil I've used in the past as 104 degree summers do nice things engines here. Well the noise is back. Same marble sounds when I release the throttle. Usually appears around 3K or so and lasts until idle. The cam itself is rather loud now. I don't understand why oil weight has this affect on my car. I ran a tad bit of sea foam through the intake but it didn't solve any of the issues. Does anyone have ANY ideas what this can be? It is driving me nuts when I rev and I hear that BLASTED rattle. It scares me. The chain and tensioner are new, BRAND new. The valves are all adjusted the right way. I've checked and rechecked and rechecked. Thanks Jan

I was actually thinking of going there myself. Thanks for the help guys Jan

Battery terminals are clean and shinny. Jan

It is externally regulated. Jan

Went to the parts store earlier today. Batter test 100% good. I asked them test my alternator (with the car on) and their testing devise stated that I have low output. So I'm guessing a new alternator/regulator are in order huh? Jan

To be honest whichever. Keeping the regulator is fine, not having one is fine. At this point I wish to get the car working to a point where I'm not afraid to drive it without the light on. Jan

I may indeed check all the electrical work to the car. None of the fuses (other than the A/C one) has ever reached a temp higher than what I would like it to, that being hot or something. I am running aftermarket headlights (H4 replaceable bulbs to be exact, 55W I believe) so I can see how it can draw more power than the stock ones. What is the best place to get alternators/regulators. There's a place here in Tucson that rebuilds alternators which I'm considering instead of getting new one. Did forget to mention this. I replaced all four of my fusible links about a week ago as one of them broke in my hand (literally). I bought replacements from MSA and they seem to work great. I believe I have a green two reds and a black. I don't know if this makes a difference to my Z's issues. Thanks Jan

I'm pretty sure it is the regulator but you guys tell me to make sure. I connected the positive to the one screw on the alternator with the wires going to it (with the black cover) The ground wire I connected to the ground on the on battery (+). With the car running (lights off) the DMM read roughly 13.25 but was very very erratic (dropping up and down .5 volts). When I revved the car the it continue rising up to and maxes out at 15.5 volts. With the (lights ON) it idles at roughly 13.1 volts again rather erratically. When revved (to 3k maybe) it hits 14V roughly. Again all the readings were very erratic so getting a good reading was hard to to do. Hope this is enough to let you guys know what it is. Jan

Ok so I need to use a DMM on place it on the alternator output to the battery? Sorry I'm familiar on how alternators work just not on how the wires are set up. Thanks Jan

Hey guys. In the past couple of weeks I've noticed that my volt gauge is not stable when I'm driving. At idle it sometimes jumps a bit (to the left and right). When I drive it does evens out but sometime it'll jump up to 16+ and then back down to where it should be. Any ideas? Jan

I used a hose clamp at the bottom of the leaky injector and that "fixed" the problem for now.While fixing the injector I noticed that all the injectors have "Python" written on them. After talking to a few people I come to believe that all six of my injectors are replaced with OE "replacements" . Jan

I think I've discovered the source of the sqeaking. Has anyone ever done this. Is plain ol' white lithium grease ok or should i use wheel bearing grease? Jan