Pomorza

I do have hot air from the heater on my feet and on the windshield yes, as I used it this morning as it was 20. The cable that controls the blower box flap (the thing on the bottom side of the blower motor housing that directs air, don't know what that is called), is connected to something but I don't know what. Since its winter I made it so that air gets drawn from the inside. What does the HVAC vacuum control port do? Jan

This describes my Z's idle the for the first couple of months I owned it. When it was chilly outside (or cold like it is today) I would start it and it would do pretty much the same the thing. I replaced the air regulator and it fixed right away. Personally I avoided fixing it as I thought it really didn't affect the cars driving (and I was not in the mood to spend $120). If you can live without it, it should be fine. I replaced my as it began bothering me on colds days when it would idle at ~500 for a rather lengthy period of time. Hope that helps Jan

When I bought the car the AC didn't work so I chose to remove it. That part or parts (hose and all) were not on the car when I bought it. I believe the previous owner removed it when it broke and didn't bother to replace it. Without the rest of that system is that part pretty much useless? Does it affect the cars vac at all? Jan

Hey guys Don't want to thread jack so I'm going to ask this in another one. What is the little thing that sits in front of the EGR valve.(picture included) Jan

Thirty years of innovations and it only just beat a 260Z and was crushed by a 300ZX. Jan

Hey guys I'm replacing the cold start valve and I'm on a bit lost on which one to get. Both places I went to asked if it was the "black" or "green" one. What is the difference between these two? Jan

Bill I did notice this. When I turn my car off, the pressure will drop to about ~25 or so and then start rising up, where it will reach ~30 and then stay there for a while. The pressure will drop over night to ~10 or so sometimes and other times it'll hold at 30 all night. It is rather confusing. Not the less, I have some sort of leak somewhere. cozye, since I'm already going to replace the pump it makes no sense to me not to do all the lines (rubber) when I'm down there. I'm one of those folks (its the engineering part of me) that thinks that if I replace one old thing the others near by are bound to fail soon. (it happened to me with the radiator and waterpump, one went and the other one followed) Jan

Since I got all the parts already,dampener included, I might as well replace it wouldn't you think? I'm tempted to say that my fuel pump is nearly 20 tears old, as all the paper work indicates that it was replaced sometime between 90-96 so I am willing to bet that the pump isn't in the best shape anymore. Jan

Exactly what Z train said. We start the car after I drove to Ztrains place after letting it sit for, oh ten minutes maybe. Problem was clearly there. While sitting trying to figure out problem we revved the engine a few times (4 or 5 maybe) and the said problem went away. To be honest it sound that FastWoman is right on this one though. Z train, although the issue was there and the plugs were dead on, as you told me since the car "fixed" itself it is possible the plugs would show any sort of lean/air mixture. I'm going to go ahead and replace the fuel related devices as I have nearly everything but the actual pump. (I have the dampener, regulator and the CSV) Jan

A question for you guys. If one was to unplug the cold start valve and start the car should it run differently? (when cold) Jan

Yes I didn't read that. I got similar lenses.

I bought these when I first bought the car. I personally think they're awesome as they really lightened up the road. My next investment is this for the lights. Jan

Hey guys I'm in the market to replace the fuel pump in my Z. Do you guys have a particular brand you prefer. I bought from the local import store but it says on it it's remanufactured and I don't know if I'm really comfortable putting it on the car. Wanted your guys opinion. Jan

Hey all I'm planning on rebuilding my transmission in the near future. Does anyone have a good source of transmission parts? Thanks Jan

Sorry mate, twas rather tired when I wrote that response and didn't take the time to realize that you'd already answered my question. Pardon the lack of brain activity.....

Guys, if you look at said picture on post 25. I broke the piece that the rod connects to on the door handle. Jan

Hey guys In the next few weeks I'm planning on replacing the master and slave cylinders on the clutch as well one of them is leaking. Does anyone know where one could procure the rubber hose that goes between the slave and the master. Mine is in pretty bad shape and since I'll be down their I might as well replace that too. Thanks all Jan

That is exactly what I'm saying mate. I drive the car, get it nice and warm. Park and come back in say 20 min. Restart and have horrid idle as explained. I drive off and it clears up. The injectors are brand new and I don't think they are leaking. Will test the cold start valve this weekend.

I have not tried to back it down. He reassured me a few times as I asked him to make sure it wasn't running lean. It only seems to do it when i restart it and only for a few minutes. I just drove to wallyworld and parked for about 20 min. Came out and started. Again had the rough idle condition and backfiring. But after a few seconds (before I even got out of the parking lot) it cleared up and the car drove fine. Jan

I will do all test (electrical and such) this long weekend. Here's two issues I wish to discuss. 1. I have a leak at the sending unit of my Z. I'm not sure how this would affect the car but I'm going to fix it nonetheless. 2. Due to emissions in Arizona, I've had my car run through a exhaust analyzer a number to times by my mechanic. I've asked him multiple times if I was running lean at any time and he stated that he has the car set to run exactly as the manual says and even a tiny bit rich as the timing is advanced to ~17. Jan

Hey guys Since about six months ago I've had issue with rough idle when restarting my car after a long drive. By long I mean long enough to get the car to operating temp for a bit. Symptoms are these. The engine won't be able to hold idle steady and when I give it throttle I get backfiring in the intake or right at the manifold. I originally though the problem was my injectors as three of the six were leaking externally, so this past weekend I replaced them with brand new ones. (there's a thread someplace on here about it). This didn't really solve my issue at all. To be honest it seems as if it got worse at times. My fuel pressure at idle sits at about ~31 and when I give it throttle (rev to about 2k right quick) it'll pop up to ~35. I've been told that this is a common problem with 280s as the fuel rail gets rather hot and the fuel vaporizes in the line. Is there any way I can rid myself of this issue. Jan

The fuel injectors that I bought are from MSA. Supposedly they are made by a company called Pacer and are brand new. I can't complain as they are not nearly as noisy as the older ones were. The previous injectors I had were made by python (or well it was written on them) and were not all they great. As you can see from the photo there is a difference in the size of the new ones and the older ones. I pulled both the fuel rails when I did this and would suspect that this maybe the easiest way to do it. Of the old injectors only three (3) were not leaking at some point. All three were leaking externally and I suspect at least one was leaking internally. Things I've noticed. The Z starts better. I only have to hold the key for a split second and bam that car is on. Secondly the fuel pressure stays constant after letting it sit at ~32. The throttle response is a bit better. I haven't take the Z for a long trip but it seems that all the new injectors are at least two times quieter than the one I removed. Thanks Jan P.S If anyone needs me to explain the process I used I'll be happy to

Hey guys. I finally bit the bullet and bought new fuel injectors for my Z. I ended up replacing them earlier today. Took many pictures of what I've done but can't find the device that gets them off my camera, I'll post them later. Car seems to drive as it did before, with some odd running on restart which I had before. Jan

Well since we're discussing what we got for Christmas I got a bottle of 12 year old Glenfiddich and a nice glass to drink it from. Other than that I got to spend the day with my family in Florida. Jan

There is a hair of truth to the statement Cozye. I don't have pictures but, when I did the eibach spring and tikico strut update to the Z the front was lowered about an inch yes but the rear raised 1/8 of an inch. Both me and my friend who helped me do the update were astonished. We were worried that, because of my oversized rear tires, the spring would lower the car too much. Well it didn't. It actually confused the two of us for a bit. I'm going to have to say that it depends on the condition of your previous suspension parts. Mine were 34+ years old and were no longer really doing anything but taking up space (I was able to move the struts in and out by hand very easily). Jan