Z Kid

There is a local guy here who I know has a couple of coupes and a fair few bits, let us know what parts and I shall ask round the car club and see what pops up. Cheers Chris

You'd be surprised, basically all parts are available for them here in Australia if you are willing to pay, but pay you do, and they are repros, there is a resto shop here and his rule is if he can sell 20 units, he will make them, but boy does he charge, a tad over 50k is the going rate for him to restore your GTB, he has three in the workshop as I type. Cheers Chris

Looks awesome there, absolutely love your car. Cheers Chris

I kinda upsized to the Z gradually, I had my first car the landrover, then I bought a 75buck N12 Pulsar, slapped a new box and a lick of paint on it, and sold it for enough to buy my first Z and parts car. Kept the good bits off the parts car, sold the rest and made enough money to get a start on the Z. Worked killing chickens for a few months, bought the bodykit and a cheap 1600 (now awaiting paint and then being sold off). Its good being a student living at home, apart from the car money, and beer money life is almost free .

Well I lasted 8 hours 47 minutes and 4 seconds, and still 50 percent of people hold the button longer than me, when I say hold I mean wedge the mouse under the keyboard and go to bed

From my experience, only one of the ignition bolts is a headless one, so you undo three, slide in a cold chisel give it a whack and the steering lock is off, you can start her up and drive her off no problems.

Here we have a company that "Base Dips" I assume its like a giant tub of brake fluid, but the advantage is that it does not in any way affect the properties of metal. Might be something to look for?

And here I was considering a GT40 style roofblister or hacking away my seat mounts, and there are midgets who actually want the whole lot closer to their head

15X8's? wow thats huge for the front, just a couple of questions, how do you propose to smuggle them under the guards, and do you thing a rim that wide will have adverse handling effects on the Z? I am currently looking for a set of wheels, well kinda looking, I have a contact who brings stuff in keeping his eyes out over there so we will wait and see. I was thinking 7's with nice deep dish would be more than ample to fill the front flares, and 7.5's or 8's heaps for the rear? Looking Good Chris

Kats that looks amazing, even more amazing is the quality of the restoration, very rarely would anyone bother about something such as the jubilee clips, let alone the correct screws for them, I hope one day my car will have a similar level of detail. (deep down I know it wont, but if I aim high I have something to fall back on ) Keep up the good work Chris

More than happy with second hand, its a LHS rear off a 70 model, just need a lens in alright nick (no big cracks etc) email or pm me if you can help. Cheers

I dont suppose you want to sell the 1600 lenses if they are rear ones do you

What you have to remember is that half of the Victorian homocides are caused by slightly trigger happy police . The guns bought back, were as halz stated simply the auto and semi auto, and a few other more high powered versions that were previously obtainably, and really unnecessary. Even quoting those figures, you need to look at the actual numbers, a big percentage increase would only be one or two people in the whole state. Getting shot here is not nearly as common as it seems to be in the US. (give or take the odd resteraunt massacare). I have a slight farming background, and in reality for everything in australia that you are going to want to shoot at, a high powered bolt action 22 calibre rifle with 10 shots will get at least 8 of them. Fully automatic weapons are just a cry that someone is compensating for being found lacking in other areas. Cheers Chris

I think all R31's which came to Australia had a solid rear end, but I am pretty sure there were at least some of the japanese models which were fitted with an IRS rear end, and NZ is the king of grey imports, so you could get lucky.

Damn you K drivers, I keep seeing K's around and thinking I should buy one and stash it away for a rainy day, its all your fault

Its from the net so I have no idea of accuracy but hey maybe there is something in it? Greek word, "auto," (self) and the Latin word, "mobils," (moving). "Car," on the other hand, comes from an ancient Celtic word, "carrus," meaning cart or wagon.

That would explain why when they crack, they seem to crack along the grain, however calling it wood is like calling a saussage meat isnt it? Its a half truth, kinda is but it isnt.

Sounds to me like it could be a dodgy earth, ie only a secondary earth is working and its not giving enough power to turn it over, it then heats up and gets worse?

Incidentally while we are on useless flying facts, the US replica/rebuilt original wright flyer is put together all arse up, they built an exact copy and tried to fly it here, turns out all your controls on the rebuild are on upside down, scared the $^!# out of the poor guy trying to fly it here. Found it out looking back at original photographs.

I remember doing a project on this at school at one stage, did the plane actually clear the ground in Dayton? I thought they moved elsewhere because it wouldnt get off the ground totally at their first location? On the car, do you mean the first one powered by an internal combustion engine or a steam engine? The first automobile (and origin of the word) was sometime in the 14th century, and it was a cart powered by four slaves moving capstans. Then you had the dutch using windmill powered land vehicles in the 16th century. Evans was the first to apply for a patent, but I dont think he was the first to try the idea of a steam powered car, I think that honour goes to Captain Nicolas-Joseph Cugnot in 1769.

I am on my way to U Pull it to search for a new wheel hub to suit a trailer, what kind of car should I be looking for which would have an L14 motor, and I will have a look round?

Cool, it all sounds promising, well more promising than me, I have two Z car gearboxes, one a known bad one, with synchro issues and one a great one that I test drove, only problem being that a certain family member cleaned out the shed and moved them both to a common location . Good luck with the swap.

I have an L20B (four cylinder) short block sitting here on my verandah, are these the rods you are after, if so I can go and grab a couple more from the wrecker to make up a set of 6 if you so desire? Cheers Chris

From the parts book as far as I can tell, all 260Z manual cars, both two seater and two plus twos in the australian market had a final drive ratio of 3.7 (37/10). Interestingly however the book lists the post august 73 automatic cars as having a 3.36 final drive ration? while pre aug 73 had the 3.545 ratio? So I hope it helps, but not totally sure. Incidentally I have seen a couple of Z's fitted with the presumably inferior boxes out of 4 cylinder datsuns, so really the box may be from anything?

Just out of interest, how wide are the spacers on the rear? I was thinking of getting something about 7.5ish for the rear, but still want a bit hanging out to fill the flares.