Terrapin Z

There just happens to be another CL seller with the RHD dash, pedal box, and wiper set up selling at the same time. Just coincidence from what I understand. The seller I bought from said he offered the RHD parts guy a dash cap but no sale. Ironically one the extra pieces I ended up with was the RHD dash cap, Which would be needed if one were to purchase the RHD parts form seller number 2. You are correct about the bumpers, they came off a 72 roller I found in a front yard near Napavine a few years back.

I ended up with that bunch of CL parts. The guy had a RHD Fairlady he had sold for 21K and for some reason the buyer didn't want the parts. This seller just wanted is all out of the garage. I ended up with a lot more than was in the pictures. Well worth the $ and drive up to Bellevue. The throttle piece had the cable but not the knob. I just saw a complete choke/throttle on Ebay sold for $350

My parts car has that pan. I think it is a Canadian car as it had no evep. tank. It is a 7/70. #9885 E31 block.

That really sucks, that is a nice car. I understand your reward completely. I know this is too late now, but perhaps for others. A fuel cut off switch at the tank works great. Sure they steal your car but only get 6 blocks and it dies. they can't restart and then bail. You get your car back with some break in damage and a hot wire, but you still have your car. They would have to be top notch thieves if they come and tow truck your car away. Thats serious planning!! I wish you the best of luck in the recovery Scott.

I have one from a 70 if you are looking for a proper fit.

I have just pulled the dash out of my 70 parts car. Should be the same bracket. I hope these help you out.

She is dusty and dirty and has not run for quite a while. But..... She fired up with little effort, and settled into a nice idle. Looking forward to putting on some miles this year. She turns 45 this year. I hope this is a great year for all the Z's out there.

I haven't been on here for a while but have a 70 I intend to post in the classifieds for a part out. I still have the pedal box if you are interested Glassguy.

Those look like possible options to try Namerow and Blue. Seeing how I am not in it for any real $ I might just give the sawdust epoxy a go and see how it turns out. I'm in no big rush to get this done. Originally I was thinking of adding some wood stain to the epoxy. I am not sure how that would react together chemically. The sawdust shouldn't have any effect on the epoxy in that sense. Now I need to find some dark cherry wood or some deep mahogany to cut up and make sawdust out of.

Thanks for the offers Jim and Jim. I have a 72 wheel that is an easier clean up. I was just trying to find out if this S1 was even fixable to the point where it look proper, not necessarily a show piece. I just hadn't seen any posts about fixing any crack in the "wood" part. Seems to me like zKars Jim said big $ and a lot of work to make it look right. Fortunately, I am not in it much so it might just end up on Ebay and the the bidders decide what it is worth. Seriously though, has anyone attempted a repair like this, even just a small outer rim crack? Just curious now.

I did a bunch of searches using different text and could not find any threads regarding repairing cracked "wood" on the steering wheel. I have a series 1 wheel and when I removed the cheesy wheel cover I found these cracks. My thought was to fill them with some stained epoxy. I am just not sure how that would work out especially the the spoke meets the "wood". It looks like the rust goes under the "wood" and I expect would keep rusting and splitting the connection. I saw a lot of posts for cleaning the "wood" and repainting the spokes. Just no repairs for this. Any input would be great. Thanks

Duh I forgot the link http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/2380761313.html

Saw this the other day and asked what the vin was. 19K is a bit steep but hey "no rust" and look at those mudflaps:D

Another one....... http://stlouis.craigslist.org/atq/1813582563.html

I just saw those as well. they are on C/L with some saab signs http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/clt/1875645283.html

When I was looking for different ratios for the rear end I found this site helpful. http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html There is some 5 speed id charts on the bottom of the page. Good luck

The best place to start, Get the brakes Steering and suspension working right first. Then the run-ability, and then cosmetics. IMHO Welcome to the forums, lots of good info here. I sure learned a lot. The "clubs" button on the bar up top has a Seattle club and a couple in Portland.

Here are some shots without carpet or seats, and the belt mechanisms separate. (from my parts car). The pics are of the drivers side. The pics of the receiving end are well represented in MikeW's post. The only thing I had that I don't see is the nylon strap that goes under the center console, and holds the two center receivers. I hope this helps you out. Dave

Nice job S30driver, You did fine job cleaning up that bumper and fitting it to your 280. I applaud your efforts. That looks so much better than the stock bumpers. IMHO

If you know a good body man I have a donor car with decent quarters. The center of the roof is a bit wavy. I's make you a heck of deal on the parts, getting them to you is another story though. But I thought I'd offer. http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/showcat.php/cat/500/ppuser/19508

Sounds like you have a handle on it. I'm sure you can get it as good as having that kit in the first place:nervous: I'll get an exact weight on it and let you know tomorrow.

I think it pretty cool myself. First time I've seen it.

Curtis240Z is correct in the fact that there are spot welded on washers on the inside of the cross brace. I also agree that you should replace the whole thing. JMHO. I'll sell you the one I have, with the bolts and nuts if you want it. It just has the ding by the rack mount. PM if interested Dave

What you have in you car is a camber adjustment kit from Specialty Products http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=83115&cmd3= When I took my car in to get it aligned at Les Schwab. the guy pulled that exact kit out saying it was the oldest parts he had and was shocked that he had it at all in the first place. Check out the installation instructions, what they do with that is cut a larger hole in your front cross brace 54401-E4100. install the eccentric and adjust your camber. You can never go back, once the hole is cut the stock bolt will no longer fit. To be stock again you would need to get a new cross brace.

What you have in you car is a camber adjustment kit from Specialty Products http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=83115&cmd3= When I took my car in to get it aligned at Les Schwab. the guy pulled that exact kit out saying it was the oldest parts he had and was shocked that he had it at all in the first place. Check out the installation instructions, what they do with that is cut a larger hole in your front cross brace 54401-E4100. install the eccentric and adjust your camber. You can never go back, once the hole is cut the stock bolt will no longer fit. To be stock again you would need to get a new cross brace.