Terrapin Z

@dutchzcarguy Not sure if you Facebook but this came through my scroll today.

Some SU info and parts from down under. https://sumidel.sitesuite.net.au/shop/category/carburettor-spare-parts

@zKars Jim, straight up the middle on a Z is about 21" and the ZX comes in about 24" Should be an easy way to see what you have. I hope that helps.

Mine is still in the parts car, with the trim off. I can get some measurements this afternoon when I get home from work.

Since there is more interest, I've post a couple of photos here. I seems the upper or back portion of the seat is not foam at all. but more like the "old horse hair" Something I did not expect. The seat or lower portion has foam and more horse hair on the underside near the springs. I know the stain looks funny but it is not that.?

Sorry this took so long. We had som kitchen appliance issues crop up and that took priority. I will PM the pics, LMK if you have any interest.

I'll take a closer look and get back to you.

I have an 82 NA 2+2 I am parting with nice seats, LMK if you have any interest.

It looks to me like you have it 90 degrees out.

The passenger side is slightly longer and a different end angle, as oppose to the drivers side.

I agree that is plausible, I intended to lubricate the cable when I serviced the brakes, but with the RT mount it was near impossible to get up in there to remove the cable as it does not just unhook. A 50 year old cable and yoke might not slide like it used to to balance out when new. I should have serviced that when I had the diff out 5 years ago. I can say that after using this technique the brakes do seem to work better. I made no other changes other then a re-bleed having replaced the springs on the front and rear. My brake handle never seemed to change after the 5 years of use. Yet now travels less than before. Could be a fluke I suppose.

621's on eBay Mine are all the 408 / 409 https://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-240Z-260Z-TRICO-LA87R-LD87L-WINDSHIELD-WIPER-ARMS-PAIR-WITH-WIPERS/224043080051?hash=item342a021973%3Ag%3AmFIAAOSw-Rle3~04&LH_ItemCondition=4

No, at least not for my adjustment. It is like Zed Head said above when I got to the point where I could not turn it anymore by hand it rests in the last notch. Thus backing off just enough to let the wheel spin. Don't force it! In fact, I was still able to pull the drum back off the shoes without "releasing" the adjuster. I did have to wiggle it some but it came off. When the drums are worn in they create a groove the shoe rides in, Then you have to release the tension to get over the edge of the groove. So make sure you don't have a groove first. There is a wear limit in the drum. When the have rotted in a field for 20 years then the rust holds them together and you have to beat them to get the drum off. You can always just get it close testing the distance the E brake arm moves to where the movement gets less and less, Then, switch over to the auto adjustment by pulling the handle up. Just try to get the adjuster arm movement the same on both sides. Mine move >5mm My thought was if you had one adjusted correctly and the other one not, the e-brake handle auto adjustment would not work right. The tight side would never let the loose side catch up. Then only one side would be properly adjusted and the weak side would do nothing. That is why I only had one drum on at a time when setting it up. To keep them even. This would also reduce regular pedal braking as the hydraulic side uses the same adjustment, just from the other side of the adjuster.

When I adjusted mine after really cleaning up and greasing the E brake adjuster. I put one drum on leaving the other side off. I also had the E brake cable off. I turned the star adjuster until I could not get the next turn out of it. Like Zed said above - that last tooth. I then could still turn the wheel and using my thumb engage the E brake lever. It only mover a small amount to stop the wheel turn. I then removed that drum and repeated the process on the other side. After mounting the wheels which spin quite well, It now only takes 3 to 4 clicks for the E brake handle to firm up. Seemed to work well for me.

I don't remember any of the rubber seal being exposed, at least on my 82. The only thing I see that would be what you are describing is at the fender edge. Here are pics of the passenger side with the side trim still on, and a pic of the drivers side with the trim off. You can see where the plastic pin lock the strip down. (circled)

Here are some pics of the bottom under the stainless trim. It looks like there was a plastic piece that had sticky tape to hold it in place. It looks like it went on first then the windscreen gets glued in after. there are some bulges that look to hold the stainless on every few centimeters. The piece is notched so it can make the arc of the windscreen and breaks very easy, It is also weather checked. I did get a small piece of it out for the pics. The ends have a locating pin that sits under the side trim. It looks like there was something like it on the top as well. It is also sealed in with silicone or some other adhesive. No bumps on the top but it had the butterfly clips as noted above.

Hi Mart, Looks like your car has been coming along nicely. I think you are right about changes in the years, 79-81 seem to be similar, and then 82-83 are their own style. This 82 is the only one I have an opportunity to take apart. I have seen 79's at the JY but did not pay attention to the windshield. In my 79 parts list they show two fastener strips (upper and Lower). The upper lists one > July 81 and another aug 81 > although they show the same picture. The lower is shown as all the same. Both slides show the plastic clips from your next picture but the descriptions are missing from the list (indicating NLA?) Sorry I don't have clear answers for you. I never took the bottom stainless off, I will see if I can pull that this weekend to see what is under there. Keep up the great work.......

There are 8 point sockets too. with the right size it should grip quite well. https://www.grainger.com/product/1AX12?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI55P0wur36QIVSh6tBh25RwitEAQYASABEgJguPD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMI55P0wur36QIVSh6tBh25RwitEAQYASABEgJguPD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!264955915865!!!g!439063557338!

It is an early 260 but it sorta looks like these superseded up to the later 280 at least in CPM mine is a 01/74 I can take measurements for you if you like. I'll send some pic's through the PM too.

@gotham22 I believe the "wrecking yard" in the other post would be https://www.zspecialties.com in Snohomish, WA. His name is Oliver. His website has been under construction for years, but you can call him. While I am not a "wrecking yard" I too am in WA state, and I have some parts cars and could offer something to you. The two I have both have some surface rust (nothing like your examples) and are off earlier cars. One is an early 74 260 the other a 73 240. I am not sure if there were differences in these from the 78 you have.

Nissan's making a 40OZ??? I'll try it!!

Thanks for the heads up @Zed Head. I really only care for the transmissions from the ZX. Not much else. Probably would be a good deal for this one.

The "P" in BP5ES or BP6ES is an indication of a projected tip. our cars need that to get the spark in the correct location. A B5ES would be shorter overall. The R mentioned above is a resistor. (BPR5ES) Heat range (the number 5 or 6) is the size of the porcelain as opposed to the electrode. Has nothing to do with the overall length of the plug. https://www.denso.com/global/en/products-and-services/automotive-service-parts-and-accessories/plug/basic/heatrange/

I looked for the black / red black wire combo, and did not find it in my 6/70. Usually the flat spade type wire by the passenger kick panel is for the door switch for the dome light. It comes out from the hinge bolt cavity. Just a possibility....

Ah, makes sense now. Is that a hose clamp exhaust hanger on there? All sorts of cool stuff.