Terrapin Z

@MorunoGarage I sent some pics and info.

You are in North WA state, go cherry pick it. 😬 time to rebuild the hoard.

That is an interesting list of "pop up sellers" I have seen these kinds of scams a lot recently. When someone posts a want ad then these people all have one available. All new members with no posts. Glad to hear you are pursuing the money sent to the last "seller" Best of luck on that. Since it was a nice sunny weekend I went out and took some parts off the 76 280Z parts car, for future sales. I did pull the pedals, and seem to be missing 1 spring. You should have that same spring on your brake pedal. I will get some pictures this afternoon, as I am headed to work for the day. I will PM the pics and a price. I will also look into the shipping to Spain.

I have a 76 with the front bumper on it. It is not in perfect shape most of the rubber is cracked, and there is a bent up part on the drivers side, so inexpensive. Let me know if there is any interest. I'm in WA too. Exit 82

As said above if you linked the funds through a credit card, ask the card company. I get the impression you linked your bank. I will confirm I have the whole set of pedals, and send pictures for you to decide you would like to proceed with another set. No rush, take the time to give @mikegreen008 the opportunity to make this right for you. Refund or the parts. 54 days on the forum and no posts. @Mike should also be aware of this activity in my opinion. Good luck, as well.

Did you need the whole pedal box with the two pedals? most of the actual boxes are set up for auto or manual applications. Normally you would just need the two pedals, springs, and mounting bolts. Not sure of your situation. I think I still have a set if you're interested. Size and weight make up the freight price. Taxes are usually on your end when you pick it up. Sorry to hear of another scammer, they seem to be coming out of the woodwork in the classic car world. I am sure they are all over the place when there is need for goods. If you sent as Goods and Services PayPal should cover you. Friends and family is always a risk.

I saw that one too. A bit far for me. I wondered if it still had the transmission. A 2+2 car.

There is a L shaped piece shown in the diagram. It does look to be a different shape though. No reference number for that one of course. As it was just laying there, It might have come from further up in the dash. I am sure others will know.

Here is a good one for 00027.... It is for sale, sorta near me. Anyone figure out what the letters or numbers correspond to?

As Zed said ^ They are behind the plastic panel in the rear, and the one on the right rear, where the vent tank sits. If you are not using the tank I would look for some rubber caps to seal them off.

Thanks for the functional pic's @CanTechZ I agree completely the intention was to exhaust the cabin pressure / flow. I was only stating there was no direct path between the two points. To @Zed Head's point making some seals is the only option going forward.

The way I understand these to work is rather funky for such a well designed car. The large panel vents into the car from the chamber in the hatch just openly. The smaller slit in the two vent pieces are also open to that chamber. crafting the vent to the outside of the car through the chrome vents on the large slit. The tubes are just for draining water out. Which drains right onto the hatch sill, promoting rust. There was no direct connection from the big panel to the smaller pair of vents. These also let in a lot of fumes that billow around the back of the car. At least that is what I determined from refreshing my S1 hatch vents. No wonder they went to the B pillar vents.

I have a 73 which has the "B" transmission, that I am cutting up. I am pretty sure the mounts are the same, but not 100%. They look very similar. I can't think of a reason they would alter them over the years. If you think these might work let me know and we can work something out. I can take more pic's and measurements if needed.

Also of note in the drawings is the location of the stopper screw. Early has it on the side #19 Late has it on the bottom #17 I concur that it is an early M/C GLWS

I have one as well, @z3beemer, just as a back up to 240Z415.

Those air horns though.......🤣 😂

Most bike shops I worked at sold a product call Kreem. A white three part coating. even back in the late 70's and 80's https://www.kreem.com/fueltankliner.html

Only $110.000... I like the edit screen on the pictures, classy. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-Datsun-Z-Series-/324935428381?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Not racing but pacing......

Mart, the thing about FB is most people don't know that to put some car make and models in the ad, you have to scroll all the way to the bottom and select "other' it will then let you type in what you really have. Most just pick from the list and try to get close. 240SX comes up a lot for the Z's.

I took a look at my parts dash and when I pulled the reset knob off there was no clip on the outside of the dash. The inner clip was there and keeps the cable at the correct length though the dash. The manual does not show one either. The knob does fit tightly and may be the only thing that holds the reset cable end to the dash. Something to try before going through a lot of effort.

When I did my set of Toyota calipers I seem to remember having to notch the backing plate about a 1/4 inch.

I have always found the 10mm snap off just fine with a standard socket, no impact gun needed. 😅 How about that double deep though???? 😎

The quintessential set......

A 72 in Tacoma "Does not run" $1000.00 🙄