Seanh

Yes, the F54 is the strongest engine block for our cars, and I would reccomend it for boring out to a 3.0L. However, it is found on ALL 81-83 ZX Datsun, not only turbos. The casting number can be found tword the bottem of the block, near the right engine mount I believe...

Would an electronic distributor from an 82 280zx Turbo automatic trans car work for me on my 72 240z? I want to convert to an electronic setup, but dont know if this will work.

Just getting perpared to pull the motor next weekend, so i thought I would ask. Where did you people bolt the chain to in order to lift the engine? Just curious so I didn't see any obvious locations. Thanks

When I do my little rebuild/refresh on my 72 240z motor, L24 stock, I would like to put a better head on it, its got an E88 right now. I was wondering if an N42 would be my best choice? How much can they be bought for? How much for new seats since they'll probally need them. Will this give me better compression on my engine? Any ideas on power gains over my high milage stock E88? Thanks

I seem to notice quite a bit of front end vibration on my 72 240z. Normally I would think wheels are out of balance, but usually this is only noticable high speeds, and I notice my vibration at most all speeds. I plan on eventually, when I get some more money, to replace the entire suspension. I'm wondering the way to go? I want full raceing, but still streetable suspension system. I dont care about ride confort either. I want all poly suspension bushings also. Solid where possible even, like the diff. mount. Can I get solid transmission and engine mounts also? What else would you reccomend? I want something like drag launch springs, where the weight it shifted to the rear upon take off and would like to get the front end off the ground if possible too. Do they make those spings for this car? If so, where can I get them and how much? (also would like them to lower the car a couple inches).

I want to replace the oil pump with a high volume one just for added insurance. I always use high volume oil pumps on all motors I build in the past. No, Mine hasn't failed yet, but I just want to be sure its in good order so I might as well replace it now since I have the chance. Is this oil tube part of the head or what? I'v never heard anything about it. Is it replaceable, if so, where can I get one? Thanks

Also, I have an E88 stock head on it now. Is there anything I can do to it? I will probally port it out myself, and probally a valve job and maybe new valves. Should I go with new spings and retainers also or are they nesessary? Is there a reasonably priced more agressive cam for this motor? Perhaps I could put a different head on there to yield more compression/better flow. What would you reccomend?

I moved this from the Tech forum, posted it there by accident... I was just wondering how long it takes to pull the engine out of my 72 240z? I'v never done it yet, but its developing a nasty oil leak on the front main seal, so I would like to freshen it up with some new gaskets and oil pump. I usually have school 5 days a week, but next 3 or more day vacation/weekend I'm wanting to do this. This engine is stock, dual carbs, all that good stuff, so it shouldn't be very difficult to do this would it? Only thing I'm worried about is exhaust. Where do I unhook it easiest? Thats the only think I hate about pulling engines is the damn exhaust, its such a pain! Thanks Also, what do you reccomend for oil pumps? I heard the L28 ZX oil pump is a high volume one, is that right? Thanks

Yeah, got it back on there and all is solved, car sounds great now. Well, except for my rear end mount thats clunking all the time, but that will get fixed soon enough. I jacked the rear end up pretty high, so tranny fluid wouldn't run out, so that wasn't a problem. I'v already had my nasty experiences with that stuff on my friends 280z. I just changed the fluid about a week ago, thinking perhaps it was low and that was causing my shifting noises, found out it was pretty low, but I drained it all and refilled it with new synthetic 80-90 gear oil. Thanks for all the help!

I dont have any junk yards for 400 miles around me. Just a salvage yard, and they don't have anything I can use, and find nothing more in the entire state of Nebraska, 5 spd, or 4spds. So I maybe end up just useing the stock tranny until my 350 is done, and not hotrod or drive too hard and hopefully it will last me as long as I need. But if anyone near me happens to see this post and live fairly close to me, let me know if you have anything I can use. Thanks

Alright, took the car home and pulled it out, which I thought to be way to easy, so I figure there will be more problems down the road since takeing the shaft out was too simple. But I got it down to NAPA and they said they would have it down before 5 tonight, so I'm happy. Yokes didn't look damaged too much, a few fresh scrapes, but nothing looks bent or seriously damaged, I'll you know how it turns out and if it solves my problems. Thanks!

Glad you guys told me that. I called NAPA and they said 8.50 per joint, plus the actual cost of the joint which is $17.50 each. So I'm on my way home to take the drive shaft out and they said they could have it done today, so thanks for the help!

Well, I tried doing that today, and the U-Joints are solid as can be...However, I can't say the same for my driveshaft...The forward u-joint in the drive shaft is my problem. Theres nothing left of it, and the drive shaft is about to snap in half. Junk yard has nothing in stock, but found one that can get here by Tuesday this week. So I think I'm going to order it if the other yard still has it in stock, waiting for a call to make sure and install it. Just wondering, they don't make a u-joint kit or anything for that do they? I pretty much have to buy the entire assembly correct? The yard wants $75 for the one they have, so I think I'll probally buy it. Thanks for the help in noticing it!

I'm almost sure my trans is going out on my 72 240z, so I'm looking for a 5spd to hold me over until I am done and ready to install my 383 V8 in 4 months. I need the trans, and pretty much anything else I'm going to need to put it into a 72 with an original 4spd. Preferably I would like to find a descent used clutch also, that is if my current 4 spd. clutch won't work with the new trans. Thanks

Alright, I have a 72 240z with the stock engine and stock 4 speed in it. I recently noticed that when I let off the gas in any gear, I hear a clank noise, loud, not the small rear end thud from bad mounts (I have that too). But I'm almost sure its comming from the tranny. When I'm stoped, and let the clutch out into 1st gear, I hear the same noise. It sounds like metal on metal noise if I had to judge. Also, when I slip the trans into nuteral while I'm still rolling, I noticed vibration in the shifter that is consistant with rear wheel spin. I'm guessing off the top of my head that the output side of my trans is going out? If so, can I drop a 5 spd from a later model year datsun into it? Anyone know where I can find one, cheaply. I'm building a 383 V8 for it, so I only need something to last me around 3-4 months until my new engine is done. Thanks

Alright, thanks a lot. Check will be mailed tomarrow, let me know when you recieve it and ship out. Thanks again!

Called my local salvage yard, we have no junk yards here, and they dont' have anything...

I really need to get a drivers side window regulator for my 72 240. If anyone has one sitting around to sell me please let me know. I'm really haveing a hard time finding one. Thanks!

I'm going for atleast a mid 12 second car, with a 5spd and 4.11 LSD rear end. How hard is dropping a V8 into this car? I would love to have that, that would be sweet, if the work isn't too difficult and would be cheaper then what I'm going to spend makeing a L28 run this fast. What do you think? What would I have to do to drop a V8 into this? Thanks

Yeah, I just checked again and it was a 240 not a 280. I am talking to a local guy about doing something like that to my datsun next year...His latest car is an 89 Conquest TSI. He pulled the original 4 banger turbo motor and built and dropped in a Mopar 402 stroker engine into it. I'm looking at the possibility of him putting either a 340 or a 402 (360 stroker) into my car. He said it could be done, about as much work as his, but its possible. He did his for around $5,000, not including the cost of buying the car though. Runs a 9.61 1/4 mile while pulling the wheels off the ground atleast 7 inches. On street tires however my car can whoop his butt brutally, he just can't hook up for nothin...

Well, I was going to use an L28 engine and rebuild it to high performance, but that plan has fell thru, I can't get that engine. I still want to build up a performance engine for my 240z, but I don't know what I can do. I wanted an L28, but I can't find one locally. I was wondering if there would be any difference in useing a different engine to build up. I am going for a 280 engine atleast. Would it be alright to use one off a regular 280z, like the L26 engine or something? Or is there something special about L28s that I should wait for as long as it takes to find an L28? Do anyone live near me (I live in Nebraska) know where I could find one? Thanks

I would second that idea about the condensor being bad...I will replace that as soon as possible now that I think about it...I think the complete cause of my problem was the points going bad. I replaced the coil and points, but neglected to hook up the radio capacitor like it was before when I changed the coil. I only got the car a month ago, and it was wired up with the radio cap on the negative side of the coil, so I wired the new coil up like that, and still got no spark because it was the points going bad also. So I played with the coil, and finally changed the points but didn't hook up the cap to the negative side, so I got it running, but ran like crap since the cap wasn't hooked up like it was before. So yeah, I will change the condensor coil and try takein goff the radio cap and see what happens and post it here... Thanks for the huge help yesterday in trying to get it running, couldn't have done it without ya!

Have you guys seen the video clip of the 280z with the blown LT4 vette engine in it...Its damn sweet, shows the engine off for a while, then shows the car doing about 50 or so down the road, downshifting and white smokeing and fishtailing leave 2 very thick lines of rubber as far as he stood on the gas. That video was what made me eventually want to get a z car...Its very inspiering...

Well its finally alive...I feel really dumb, but the entire time the problem was that I didn't have my little radio capacitor noise reducer thing or whatever that thing is that hooks to the negative side of the coil hooked up...I was out working on the car when my parents came home tonight...Mom walks over to the car and I show her how it wasn't running very good and start it up...She looked at the engine (doesn't know a thing about it) and sees that little wire off the negative side of the coil not hooked up...Shes like, Oh theres your problem right there...I laughed and said fine, hooked it up, started it up again and I'll-be-damned...the thing started right up and reved perfectly...I just about wanted to nuke the car when that happened...All this time it could have been running, but I didn't even think this stupid little cap. needed to be hooked up to make it run, but obviosly it does...But yeah, all apears to be good now...I went ahead and replaced that torn up grounding wire while I had it apart, and cleaned up all the grounds in the distributor...I think another contributing problem was my connections all over, they were just caked with grease, so I crimped some new female connectors on the ends of all those wires also. The $300 beast runs once again... BTW, anyone interested in replace their coil might want to look into this one I bought...Its the Accel Super Steet Coil, available at Advance Auto Parts for about $32.00 and it usually kept in stock. Very nice unit for the money I believe...Time will only tell how durable it is, but the power it puts out is nice...

Something else that may be of help here...I just checked restances again around my dist... It appears, with the points OPEN (apart) that I'm getting only 5-6 ohms between the two coil points...I would think this should be infinity right? There shouldn't be any continuity between the points when they are open should there be? And, once again, If I pull my negative wire off the coil then the resistance becomes infinity, but as soon as they coil wire is hooked back up its back to 5-6 ohms...I think this is my problem area here... How exactly does the points ignition work? Do the plugs fire when points are open or closed? Is the coil supposed to have constant power and constant ground while the car is running? Or is the coil switched on and off for each fireing of the plugs? If it is, how? thru grounding or thru power?