LeonV

Well done Steve! Some ITBs would look sweet in there someday.

Same as my 2mm (0.080") shaved P90, FWIW...

During acceleration, a lighter flywheel will deliver more torque to the wheels than a heavier one... I run a 10lb flywheel in the Z and an 8lb flywheel in my S2000. Anything heavier is sports-car sacrilege as far as I'm concerned!

The bushing in the ZX shifter is designed that way for NVH considerations, i.e. vibration isolation.

Such a bummer, I'll be on the lookout.

A smaller choke could help with a tip-in stumble but not an off-idle stumble. That's controlled by the idle/transition circuit. Tip-in is a function of the main circuit.

Happy to be able to help!

I might know the (edit: one of the previous) owner, I'll see if it was his...

Happy to be able to help! I decided to test the stock clutch when I put it all together and it's held up beautifully. Stock engagement but rev-happy and holds the torque without issue, at least so far. Gimme a shout if you need any help, Bob.

To echo Chuck, the "racing" versions will have the above quote engraved into the outer face. They are likely not certified for curb-strikes and the like, in order to make them street legal. I'd find some road-legal wheels, they shouldn't be too difficult to source. Watch the forums and classifieds as they come up once in a while, 15" examples are usually fairly affordable.

I have a feeling that the touchy clutch engagement is due to the clutch and not the flywheel. I'm running a 10lb Fidanza with a stock clutch (at 194hp/180lb-ft at the wheels BTW) and engagement is nice and smooth. FWIW...

Let me know when you're ready for tuning, Bob. I can get you a discounted rate on dyno rental at Works Motorsports at Sonoma Raceway. I've tuned a few Megasquirt setups and would be happy to assist.

Correct, S30s use JIS fasteners. I'm not at all interested in stainless for the reasons stated earlier so if you can offer a comprehensive (or piece-wise, i.e. "engine", "suspension", etc) kit with zinc-coated (yellow and/or natural) JIS fasteners, it may just make for a compelling product.

Agreed, it's nice to have reliable, modern tech under the hood. The Rebello motor should be a ton of fun! I went a slightly different direction with my current Z, using 123ignition for timing. Still a distributor but it's digital and I have discrete control of the timing curve. Considering getting the Jenvey Weber look-alike throttle bodies if I go EFI at some point down the road. Keep us posted on your project!

Glad I could help luring you to the dark side.

Looks like a fun project, Bob! If you don't want to run a stock damper (nothing wrong with them unless old age has fatigued the rubber) I'd suggest running the BHJ Dynamics damper Dave sells. It has an integrated crank trigger wheel but looks like it may be a bit late for that.

Thanks for those Alan!

Brutal is the word to describe it. Damn!

Interesting, thanks for the data.

I'm not sure plastigage would work considering it tends to stick to whatever crushes it but it's an interesting thought. I could try using something like lead solder which will keep its shape after deformation and hopefully not remain in the combustion chamber. My strategy would be to set a dial indicator to the block and zero it to a plate mounted to the head. Without messing with the indicator, pull the head off, remove the gasket, and reinstall the head flat to the block. The indicator will say what the compressed gasket thickness is. Knowing that deck height is 0.021", piston-to-head clearance can be accurately calculated. Of course, this involves pulling the head...

No worries Steve! If (when) I pull the head off again, I'll try to get a measurement of compressed gasket thickness so I could give you an accurate, true-to-life number using the OEM HG. I'm assuming when you say 1.25mm gasket you mean uncompressed? Let me know if you need any help with your build!

Doing ok so far, I have about 2000 miles and 12 dyno pulls on it. Hopefully it stays together!

You bring up a good point, Steve, and I can't give you the exact number because I got antsy and never measured compressed thickness of a new Nissan HG. However, here is some data I documented a few years ago from my build thread on HybridZ: Like you say, maybe the Nissan HG compresses less so my piston-to-head clearance is possibly somewhere in the .017-.022" range.

Very nice, I bet it pulls great!

Hi Steve, good question. We skimmed .004" off to deck if I remember correctly. Like I said, it was an experiment and one of the things I wanted to learn is how much piston-to-head clearance I can get away with. There is a lot of (conflicting) info out there but I think I remember reading Bryan Blake's old posts about him running really tight clearances. Seems it's working well so far! Now get that L28 going, you won't regret it. Thanks Andreas! I was very happy with those numbers, considering my stock S2000 made 200whp on the same dyno and much less torque. I was bummed because I didn't have a full set of other e-tubes to test out. I was about to put some F16s in to test but only had 4 on hand. Too bad about your dyno session, time to get back in there! Dave cut me a good deal, I paid $1500. I'm local so no shipping was involved. This was for a valve job (including guides and valves), head porting, manifold porting (including pinning the manifold), and assembly. I brought the head to him fully disassembled. Even if it had cost more it would be well worth it, IMO.