LeonV

It has 4 wheels.

The only differences are the gland nuts and rear strut length. Diameters are the same. At worst, you'll have to put a piece of SCH40 pipe, cut to length, underneath the rear strut (which is what Tokico does, BTW). I would not call the differences between inserts significant. The main difference lies in the strut housings themselves. The 280Z had a thicker housing which made its OD larger than the earlier ones.

I'd also be happy to take the grease seals. The front hubs for my 240Z are torn down, ready for new bearings and seals.

First thing I would do is switch the front tires around. If it pulls to the right, you have a wheel/tire issue. Uneven tire pressures and differences in rolling diameter will cause pull under braking. If the car sat for a while and/or the tires are old, I wouldn't be surprised. EDIT: Agreed with Zed on the booster causing a stiff pedal. Most likely, either the diaphragm is torn or the check valve in the vacuum line going to the booster is installed incorrectly.

Sounds like a vacuum leak and probably an exhaust leak as well. Does it only happen during decel?

Mine is "mushy" but I live with it. Eventually, I'll take a look and see if I can make it better. It's a ways down the to-do list though...

Aha, there's the problem! I wonder why he set it up advanced and not straight up. Besides that, if it was truly 3 degrees at the cam sprocket, then that's 6 degrees at the crank. Holy cow! Way too much cam advance (unless you want to kill top-end), of course the exhaust valve is going to hit. Again, I'm not denying the builder's ability, just seems like a strange series of decisions. I would've set the cam straight-up, and then slowly advanced it to see where I run out of clearance. Then, when you dial in the cam, don't dial in more advance than it physically allows. In the end, it probably doesn't make a huge difference to you and you'll enjoy the engine either way. I was just curious as that statement really threw me off.

It could come out pretty nice if it actually had wheels that fit, and the rear bumper and spoiler removed. That interior material has to go too, looks like a living room from the '60s.

Longer. That does bring up a great point, however. How does such a mild cam manage to have valve-to-piston interference issues? I was very surprised when I saw this mentioned but refrained from posting. L-gatas have had much wilder cams put in (think .550" lift, over 300deg duration with 13-14:1 comp) without interference. That doesn't make sense to me, especially with relatively close lobe centers. I'm not saying he's wrong, but I would immediately think that the cam is timed incorrectly (too advanced) after having detected interference.

I hope so! A friend from work may be coming with his son, hopefully he'll snap some for me. He had an Isuzu Bellet (GT or GTR) at one time, but unfortunately got rid of it. Wish he still had it!

With the longer-duration cam, cylinder pressure at low rpm will probably be lower. However, at high rpm, cylinder pressure will definitely be higher, otherwise you wouldn't be making any more power over a stock cam! What a longer-duration cam does is it moves the peak cylinder pressure point to a higher rpm (where intake inertia and exhaust scavenging effects are stronger). The longer duration and overlap periods make for more reversion at lower rpm, thus dropping cylinder pressure where there is not enough intake inertia or exhaust scavenging to keep the mixture flowing into the cylinder. EDIT: This relates to detonation and preignition because of the shift of peak cylinder pressures. By shifting peak pressure to higher rpm, you give the mixture less time to self-ignite. This is why longer-duration cams can be effective in suppressing detonation when compared to a stock cam at the same compression ratio. Higher compression increases cylinder pressures at all points and the longer-duration cam drops cylinder pressures at low rpm. If the superposition of these is not much higher than the stock cam/compression combo (at "low" rpm), then you might be okay. This is starting to get into the details but I wanted to shine some light as to the physics of the phenomenon we're discussing.

Should be a really fun engine, although I would have some concerns about detonation with such high compression. You might be ok on 93 octane, depending on your advance curve. Basically, you won't get the engine's entire potential without advance being around 32-35 degrees (empirically determined by dyno testing). The open chamber heads (e.g. N42) tend to be at the higher end of that spectrum. If you have to dial down spark advance because of detonation or preignition, you're losing power. The cam and advance curve have to be really well-matched to the engine in order to take advantage of the high compression. Hopefully you don't run into issues, but don't be surprised if you do. Good luck!

I know, I know, but I don't think my fiancee will be happy! I'm bummed that I'm missing this.

Looks like I overlooked the fact that I'm leaving for vacation on 6/30. I'd love to go but I'd have to miss a day of vacation!

Makes me want to go to AN plumbing on my triples! I'll second the float comment, I finally set mine using Keith's optical gauge this weekend. Front carb was 2mm low, middle was perfect, and rear was 1mm off. I set them correctly, and although the difference in float height was relatively small, the effect it has on driveability is huge. The vacuum signal in the main ciruit is just strong enough to lift the fuel up into the venturi by only a few millimeters so float height is critical.

I wanted to add that you should watch "Love the Beast", Bana's car documentary, but looks like the site locks you out from editing your post pretty quickly. Love the Beast

Eric Bana.

What, no one's ever heard of the Milliken MX-1 (Camber Car)?

Why get a $400 distributor when you can get a $400 crank-trigger ignition system? Unless you're racing and the rules dictate that you must use a distributor, a crank-triggered system would be magnitudes better than any distributor. IMO, either go Pertronix or the 280ZX dizzy for a low-budget electronic ignition system, or crank-trigger if you have $400 to throw at the ignition system. *Megajolt controller not shown This is what my dog, Bo, thinks of distributors:

That's partially true, but only for the 280Z. All 240Z's came with R180s.

Caster angle is also changed, magnitude depending on the severity of the bend.

As long as the bend is "small" and doesn't affect caster.

I know jmortensen did.

Good find, that stuff is great!

I installed ES poly bushings everywhere (rubber on rear of TC rod) in my 260Z a year ago. It took some effort but they feel great. Besides that, I used a generous amount of the supplied grease and have had zero squeaks. The grease is marine-grade and won't dry out, degrade or squeak like the other stuff.