LeonV

I don't know if the Mikunis are as open to Keith's designs as the Webers are. A couple of members from this site did some testing but I'm unsure whether there was a final result?

...and into the books of the Department of Redundancy Department.

Do you have oil in the SU domes? Check for vac leaks?

John Coffey is an admin at HZ and a member here. If I were you, I would also try to send another email to HZ.

Not quite. The octane rating used in the US during the '70s was RON (Research Octane Number). There is another method of determining octane rating called the Motor Octane Rating (MON) which is a more stringent test, i.e. MON is always lower than RON. Today we use AKI (Anti-Knock Index) which is simply the average of RON and MON. 91 RON is equivalent to 87 AKI. With that said, I'm not sure where you got the 96 octane number. The 1973 FSM (I surmise your Z is a '73) recommends 87 AKI/91 RON on page GI-3. With combos different from stock, recommendations are thrown out the window and you use what works, e.g. set timing on the dyno while making sure there is no knock.

Excellent, that's a very good spot for the aux return spring.

The owner's manual recommends the modern-day equivalent of 87 AKI, no need to use premium unless the engine is modified in a way as to require it.

The Uni-syn is junk compared to the Weber SK tool. I got mine online for about $35.

Fantastic pictures and info! Thank you Alan and Takeuchi-san for sharing.

Nobody said it was advertised at $1k... It was mentioned that it's a good deal for a sub-1000 serial number. EDIT: I do see tlorber's post is not worded very well and I'm not sure which he means, VIN or price.

Progressing nicely!

Nice job, looks great! She'll be a beauty and sound good too when back on the road.

That is just fantastic work! Молодец!

You can always call MSA and ask where they get their seats from. I'd also try contacting the shop you'll be using to see if they have a source. They might if they've worked on the L-series before. Good luck!

Hey, if the "it's going to be the kid's car" is just a cover to get it by the wife, I'm all for it!

I wouldn't get my kid a Z as a first car either. I'd like to think that I was pretty responsible when I was a teenager but I could only imagine if I had a sports car as my first car. They are just too "provocative". Stupid friends will try to coax you into things, it'll be tempting to drive it faster, to "race", and then there's showing-off for the ladies at school, etc. When the time comes, I see myself getting my kid something slow and boring as a DD. They will find a way to damage the car, no matter what. On the other hand, father-son projects are awesome and if the kid understands the value of the car by putting his blood and sweat into making it into what it is, then use it to go hit some autocrosses and learn car control. I still don't know if I'd trust a teenager with a sports car, even if they are responsible and mean well. Reasoning and proper critical thinking skills usually don't kick in until at least your 20s.

"1 tuff z" on HybridZ sells a lot of replated parts, I'm sure he either has or can get you a nicely plated inspection light. Replated s30 240z, 260z, 280z parts for sale - Parts for Sale - HybridZ

If I were to buy a 1st gen RX-7, it has to be the GSL-SE (EFI, CLSD, 4-wheel disks, and stiffer suspension). It's a fairly light car with a willing engine, and should get ok fuel economy if driven conservatively. With that said, I'd never consider it as a first car for a teenager.

What does this have to do with rear control arms?

I see no good reason to go to shorter air horns.

Thanks, glad you are taking in the info! My goal was to have as many people as possible understand exactly why and how this stuff works, instead of constantly perpetuating myths. I dumped a ton of info into that thread and now just reference it whenever necessary. You definitely won't get it all from one read-through, it took me a lot longer than that to learn this stuff!

Glad you found it useful! Feel free to ask questions if you need clarification. As for exhaust fabrication, that was easy. Step 1: Install header Step 2: Print out photos of Fairlady Z432 exhaust Step 3: Take the photos and Z to exhaust shop of choice and toss them a few hundred bucks I told the exhaust guy how big I wanted the pipes, what kind of mufflers to use and where, and had him put in a couple O2 sensor bungs and exhaust tips to finish it off. When I replace it, I'll be going to a single (2.5-3") with either the stock manifold or header and quieter mufflers.

I wouldn't wrap, it's too time consuming and traps moisture. If you're that worried about heat (you already have a heat shield, right?), put a header blanket on it. I believe MSA sells one.

Excellent!

The stock intake manifold on EFI Zs isn't as restrictive as you think. First get rid of the restriction in the head, then it might be worth it to look at the intake. Simply trying to cheat the system by upping pressure or changing fuel injectors when putting in a bigger cam won't work, at least not well. The fueling curve will be much different. Headers won't give you much of anything on a stock engine, performance increase from compression without changing anything else are also minimal as well as limited, port and polish won't do much either without supporting modifications. A lightweight flywheel, on the other hand, is a great upgrade! It's not as easy as it sounds. Basically, if you want to keep stock EFI, it's not worth it to heavily modify the engine. If you plan on serious modifications (e.g. headwork, cam, etc.) then either triples or standalone EFI give you performance and ease of tuneability. There are other ways of improving performance without doing engine work, besides giving it a good tune-up and making it run as good as it can, including closer-ratio trans, lower geared diff, lightweight flywheel, big exhaust (keep stock manifold).