LeonV

Changing properties of a spring will change its spring rate. It doesn't matter whether a spring is linear or progressive, when you start cutting coils the spring rate will increase. Simple physics.

The Hillborn system definitely won't fit. Extrudabody and TEP are two that I can think of off the top of my head.

From http://www.oocities.org/inlinestroker/index.htm You can also find the procedure in the FSM.

Download the 1972 240Z FSM from xenons30.com. Take a look at the EC section, primarily Figure EC-3 on page EC-2. BTW, #1 and #2 in your picture are the fuel inlets into the float bowl. They connect to the fuel rail. It also seems that you are missing the air cleaner, to which the float bowl vents and valve cover breather attach to.

I had a chance to meet the owner and he's a cool guy with a hell of a nice Z!

Urban legend? Nova does mean "doesn't go" in Spanish and that's all I was saying within the context of this thread.

Doppelpost

Or the Nova in any Spanish-speaking countries!

Same here with the control arms. Thanks!

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Start by spraying starting fluid (or something similar) around the parts that were removed or tampered with when you installed the header. I'd suspect a hose that is cracked or not quite sealing, or the intake/exhaust gasket especially if you didn't install a new one.

Wrong, wrong, wrong. Steve has it right. Your car is not smog exempt unless it was made in 1965 (or '63, don't remember exactly) or earlier. In California, cars that are 1975 and older are exempt from biannual smog testing, not from compliance. That's why motorman7 can register his cars without having to test it. Sure, you're probably unlikely to get caught running a non-compliant pre-'75, but if you do, there may be repercussions based on how nice you are to the officer and how they're feeling that day. Legally, all Z's must have all emissions systems installed and operational.

No problem, glad I could help. Good luck with the resto!

You are correct about combustion temperatures being decreased but notice that I said nothing at all about thermodynamic efficiency. Instead, I mention fuel consumption/economy. This is essentially a reflection of overall engine efficiency, thus thermal efficiency is already factored in along with fuel conversion, mechanical efficiencies, etcetera. EGR reduces engine pumping work holding throttle and engine speed constant. Take the same engine, one with EGR and one without. The increase in intake pressure by the EGR charge reduces pumping losses and raises volumetric efficiency thus improving fuel economy and effectively total engine efficiency. There are other reasons that I can't recall right now, don't have my reference materials on hand.

Take a look at Sunrise Z in Glendale. I haven't been there but I've heard nothing but great things.

EGR is a win-win. For some reason people enjoy demonizing any device seen as "smog control." EGR decreases emissions and improves fuel consumption while decreasing NOx without detriment to performance. It is not a "desperate attempt by engineers" but rather an elegant and effective solution to a problem. Unlike a smog pump, EGR costs you nothing while improving fuel economy.

I put the 280Z tach in the other day and I finally have a properly functioning tach for the cost of $25.

Gotcha. I would use the stock manifold but the flange on my collector pipe is warped and finding a new/good one is pretty tough, thus the consideration for the header. Again, thanks for all the info!

Good to hear! I like the way your exhaust tucks into the valence, looks like a clean job. Are you using the stock manifold, and if so did you get a new collector pipe to hook up to the manifold or did you reuse the old one? I'm thinking of going with a system similar to ChrisZ's, with twin pipes hooked up to my Clifford header (or maybe stock manifold) utilizing 2 glasspacks per pipe. You only have 1 pack per pipe, so I may go with that if there isn't much highway drone and it's not too loud, except of course at higher throttle openings/engine speeds. Thanks for the feedback!

Cool, it's across the water from me, but I'll make sure to check them out when the time comes. I really appreciate the info!

I'm in the same boat, not wanting to take my 240Z to Maaco or do the 7-8k paint job since at that point I'd be afraid of chipping the paint. I'd love to hear a recommendation for a good SF Bay Area paint shop. Your Z looks great!

Nice! I'm planning to do the same, any driving videos? I keep thinking that the system will be too loud for me.

Search hybridz.org for step-by-step instructions on flare installation.

The ARB inherently has no effect in this situation, unless it is binding. The ARB contributes to a vehicle's roll stiffness. When one wheel moves relative to the other, then the ARB has an effect.

"Maximum Brake Torque" It is a term for the highest torque value seen while varying spark timing, holding load and rpm steady.

Change that to .080" shave and .080" longer stems and that would be correct. Speaking of combustion chambers, a more efficient one will require less MBT timing so if you plan to go that route don't just advance as much as possible as you may pass MBT. Just FYI.