LeonV

I used the push method as well. Left the plugs in so I could feel the next compression stroke, worked great!

Looks like the power valve?

I second that! My external regulator is working fine. I thought I remembered reading/seeing that the internally regulated units don't excite the ammeter, but I'll concede to those that have actual experience with this.

That is the correct answer, and what I was going mention as well.

For the temp gauge, pull off the connector to the thermal transmitter and clean off the corrosion. Mine worked intermittently until I cleaned off the male connector coming off the thermostat.

Made a better video! After Engine: L24/E88, Triple 40DCOE Webers, stock cam Exhaust system components: Nissan Motorsports header to two separate 2" pipes Muffler: Two 18" glasspacks in transmission tunnel and two 12" glasspacks at the end, all reversed.

I'm with Steve, first thing I'd check is the coupling (18 in drawing) as that is what actually mates the distributor shaft to the spindle.

Buy a charger, I think I got my Sears plug-in charger for $50 or so. It has modes for starting, and different rates of charging, including a deep-cycle. You can probably get them cheaper but my unit has been very useful.

I see Pantera!

Not without modification. You can put in the header but it's not necessary for your application, and probably more work than it's worth to you. Have an exhaust built using 2.5" pipe which will give you the performance bump, and then the sound can be tamed depending on muffler choice. Of course, if you want a quiet exhaust, you're going to have to accept a hit in performance. My twice pipes are a bit on the loud side, but they didn't make me deaf on a 2 hour road trip (like the previous exhaust would).

You find conflicting information because even with the same specications, tire sizes differ between manufacturers. Before I switched to Panasports (225/50-16), I had the same slotted mags with the same tire size as you, 225/60-14. Tires are Yokohamas and there were no fit problems when I was running them. Look up your tires on tirerack and it will tell you the true dimensions.

For the spindle pin: buy/make a puller (jtburf @ hybridz.org has them), and heat the hell out of the center strut casting in which the pin resides. Go slow, rushing any job makes it take 10 times longer.

Not sure, but it depends on the carb settings (needle, spring, etc.). I have yet to do any testing on SUs.

Julio, Put a WB02 in your exhaust and you won't have to guess anymore! The gauge and wiring can be easily hidden if you're worried about that.

I'll bite. Guess I'll go with (1) being easiest and increasing from there. (1) Nothing difficult, just time intensive Replace front stuts and springs with Eibach progressives and tokico illuminas Replace rear struts and springs Replace ball joints (1.5) Not hard, but rusty fasteners can be a killer Replace 30 plus year stock exhaust manifold with msa 3-2 coated header Replace exhaust with twice pipes (2) Nothing too difficult, just need to get metal sleeve out of LCA Replace all front bushings with urethane, control arm,tension rod, steering rack etc. (3) Requires further disassembly, rear can be stubborn Replace front wheel bearings and races Replace rear wheel bearings and races (4) These go hand-in-hand, biggest challenge here is getting the pin out, and outer RLCA bushings (if using poly) Replace all rear bushings Replace spindle pins. (5) That would be a PITA without the driveline being out of the way Replace all brake hardlines There is also plentiful info here and on the web describing these tasks. My 2 cents...

Here's a before/after of my exhaust: Before Engine: L24/E88, Triple 40DCOE Webers, stock cam Exhaust system components: stock manifold to 2.5" pipe Muffler: One straight-through, perforated tube can muffler (not much muffling going on here...) Video: After Engine (same): L24/E88, Triple 40DCOE Webers, stock cam Exhaust system components: Nissan Motorsports header to two separate 2" pipes Muffler: Two 18" glasspacks in transmission tunnel and two 12" glasspacks at the end, all reversed. Videos: I didn't have much time to get a good video of the new exhaust. I will also get a video of the new twice-pipes in the same format as the "before" video, as I get the time. Enjoy!

Some days I did want to beat it. With a hammer.

I made my first long trip in the Z this weekend! Went from San Bruno to Citrus Heights and back (232+ mile round trip). The Momo felt great, I really like the material. I will say that low-speed effort has definitely increased, but I really like the feel and quickness at higher speeds.

Same with me and an '83 Mustang GT. Got it for free with 89k miles! Needless to say, never again...

Yes, twins in the tranny tunnel and at the end, so that's two per each pipe. I'm really busy, but I promise I'll make a thread soon!

I'm pretty sure zero offset RBs don't exist, I'd double-check that number. Here is the offset list off Rota's website: http://www.rotawheels.com/wheels.asp?wheelid=34 The Illuminas with Eibachs is a nice setup for a street Z, even works fine for the occasional autoX. Just avoid bad roads.

Got some distance measurements tonight comparing how far a MOMO Race extends toward the driver versus a stock 240Z steering wheel. From the bottom of the hub to the face of the wheel, stock measures at 12cm. Measuring from the dash (spot between the tach and speedo) to the face of the wheel, stock measures at 20cm. The MOMO measurements cam out essentially the same! I'm definitely glad that the wheel did not get any closer to me. Keep in mind that the MOMO Race that I'm using has a relatively small dish, which I didn't measure but it's maybe an inch. I'll get pictures soon, I've been really busy lately.

Is it a good setup for what? Is the car going to be a street car, see track use, drive your wife to the grocery store, hit some Dukes of Hazzard jumps? Wheel and tire sizing has been discussed at length, you should be able to find all the info in a search.

Did a test fit of the MOMO and it is perfect! I really like the better, thicker grip as well as the size. It allows easier entry and exit and it also quickens the effective steering ratio (not actual steering ratio, which is degrees @ steering wheel / degrees @ road wheel). Less arm movement is required per degree of wheel turns, and while there is an increase in effort, it is only a 9% difference going to a 350mm (13.78") wheel from stock (15"). This means that if a certain turn required say 30lb of force, it now requires 32.7lb of force, which I don't mind at all. Tomorrow, I should have some time to take measurements and pictures!

It was like I was a kid on Christmas again, only better!!! They sound fantastic, not too loud for me and there's less drone on the freeway. It's got that distinct twice-pipe braaap sound to it, and combined with the induction noise of the Webers, the engine plays a mechanical symphony. Don't worry, when I have some time I'll make a thread on the exhaust build (with video of course)!