LeonV

I'm betting the tag is just because the lines have not been certified by the DOT, or something to that effect. You'll be fine with using them, I haven't had any problems and they look so purdy!

I haven't had trouble using a flare wrench on my lines, just use rust penetrant and clean the nuts before attempting, as mentioned. Use a 10mm flare wrench on one side and a 19mm (or 17mm, don't recall exactly) on the big nut. Go slow and don't let the wrench slip. I'm using braided MSA lines without a problem, just make sure you don't kink them on installation. As far as the "off-road only" tag, it's not etched into the brake lines and can be easily removed. Regardless, I doubt anyone would be inspecting your soft brake lines if you get pulled over, especially if your car is stock-ish (i.e. doesn't look or try to look like a "race car"). Otherwise, inspect the brakes and see if they need attention. Go by the FSM, check for leaks and wear, and correct as necessary. Adjust the rear brakes.

The bumpers were a government regulation-driven requirement, not a styling decision.

M12x1.25 but that's off the top of my head. I'm sure someone can verify.

I'd check lash and double check the rocker arm and surrounding parts to make sure everything there is okay.

Did you have a look under the valve cover and check the valves at that cylinder?

Get the best body you possibly can. Worry about everything else later.

It's in the FSM, BE section.

Did you have the head checked for cracks before replacing it?

FWIW, when I changed my plugs recently, they all had green tint. I was using straight water for coolant, no glycol. I'd never seen it before, but didn't think much of it as the car runs strong. What, exactly, are the symptoms you're experiencing Steve?

No problem, it's on my (rather large) to-do list.

EGR will also increase fuel efficiency.

In case you didn't get my not-so subtle hint - get wheels that fit properly. If you're so set on keeping the ones you have, then you will very likely have to get longer studs and spacers. Personally, I'd get wheels with the appropriate offset.

Is the tire/rim touching the spring perch on the strut? Others have grinded part of the perch down in an effort to fit their tires, but I think that'll gain you maybe a maximum of 1/4" clearance. You should also check clearance over the entire wheel travel. The other issue you may have would be your wheel/tire hitting the frame at full steering lock. If you don't want to get different wheels or longer studs plus spacers, then your options are limited to adapting a spindle/upright which supports a more positive offset. Hmm, which option seems like the better one...

Does an engine need EGR? Did all engines before '74 "frost up" because EGR was not mandated? No, on both counts. Your mechanic doesn't know what he's talking about, which is typical... Now, does the car run cleaner with EGR? Yes. Does it hurt performance? No. There is no good reason to remove the system.

Sorry to take the thread off track, but thank you for posting this! I'll be in San Diego this weekend and did not know the Festival was going on. I will definitely have to hit the Speed Fest!

I have an early 260Z. I have also linked to the ebay conversion brackets in my previous post. Body-hugging 240Z bumpers DO NOT fit the 260Z without modification, no matter if it is an early or late 260Z. The brackets will work just fine, except (at least in the 260Z's case) the fronts will likely need holes drilled to fit correctly.

Because he never said it starved at 45mph. Re-read the original post and the problem will become clear...

They do not. I got mine from a guy selling them on ebay, here and here. I haven't mounted the bumpers yet though, so I can't comment on fitment yet, but you will have to drill holes for at least the front.

Definitely sounds like fuel starvation, I would follow Pete's advice. Also, I want to second Zforce in that you need to check the pre-bowl carb filters as well and clean them if necessary.

Yes, the lower number means hotter plug in NGK-talk. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf

I've heard complaints actually, you must remove them to adjust them, unlike TTT (not sure about MM).

Probably running hot, lots of carbon deposits in cylinder or your plugs are too hot. Couple of questions; what is the part number/heat range of your plugs, what temp thermostat are you running and has the cooling system been maintained and the coolant flushed recently?

Of course you should start a build thread, what are you waiting for!