LeonV

It is an easy job IMO, on a carbed car at least. Use patience (and lots of rust penetrant) while loosening the nuts/bolts. Loosen from outside to inside and a little bit at a time. Break loose and slightly re-tighten all fasteners before removing any. I do this to ensure that each fastener is removable before actually taking them out, and so that all fasteners are sharing the grip load instead of the final one taking all of it while you're trying to remove it. Remember that some fasteners share intake and exhaust flanges. Make sure to get new intake/exhaust manifold studs, they're $20 or so from MSA. I've done this a few times and can do the job in an hour or less, unless some nuts are stubborn. It helps to have a spare head on the workbench to reference bolt hole positions! Don't forget to disconnect throttle linkage, heat shield and the fuel rail as well. When reinstalling, use antiseize on the studs and thread them in. Use the studs as a gasket-guide. Make sure to tighen in sequence from inside to outside. Do not overtighten, I believe only 10-15 ft-lb is called for.

...and me too. I'll second that as well!

You don't need to take the pump or distributor out, and you don't even have to pull the valve cover if you don't feel like it. Pull the #1 plug out, disconnect the coil wire, put your thumb over the plug hole and stop when you feel the compression stroke (you'll feel it). Mark (or memorize) where the #1 plug wire is on the distributor cap and take it off. Look to see if the rotor is pointing there. If not, adjust the plug wires on the cap so it is, and make sure the firing order is correct. If you're going to check valves, the valve cover will come off anyway which makes visual inspection of the cam the preferred option.

I recently had a slave fail on me and replaced just the slave. Just make sure to inspect the master and you'll be fine. Unless failure is catastrophic, you'll feel clutch hydraulics being to fail before they completely die. Lower clutch engagement is a telltale sign. At least that has been my experience, YMMV.

Again, how did you quantify better response? Something may feel different but not necessarily be different. The airbox lies upstream of the throttle plate. If the airboxes were truly very restrictive, as you say, then you would see a power increase over the entire powerband because of decreased pumping losses. Throttle response, which people seem to love to talk about, is a seemingly subjective subject which is ultimately dictated by the volume between the throttle plate and intake valve, and definitely not before the throttle. But this is getting to be a didactic digression. I seem to be all about alliterations today.

There is no "resonator" and how did you quantify "better throttle response"?

What you must realize is that the advertised flow rate is usually "free flow", meaning zero pressure (no load). If you look at a pump curve, you will see that flow rate decreases as pressure rises. In reality, you will never see 32gph out of that pump. I have not done pump sizing calculations for my Z (L24 with triple DCOE), but having extra flow is better than too little.

Nice 260Z! You definitely don't see many complete and stock ones like that. I have an early 260Z as well (RLS30-004406). I enjoy their "rarity" and quirkiness as they have a lot of things that are 260Z-only. Enjoy!

First, bleed the master if you haven't already done so. Second, search "reaction disk" if bleeding the master doesn't work.

I second that. From all the drum brakes I've worked on (mostly old domestic cars), S30 drum brakes are the easiest to work with. Doing the rear drums on a Z is an easy job, the only thing that can make it difficult is rust and that's what gratuitous use of penetrating oil is for!

I'm betting it's from the original fuel pump circuit...

I've seen this car on CL a few times before. I bet she didn't post a price because it's way too high, hence the car hasn't sold for a year, or however long it's been.

Why wait for a bleeder tool when you can just bleed them manually? You can start off by yourself, put the bleed hose into a jar of good brake fluid and pump away. Once you have fluid coming out of the hose, close the bleeder and step on the pedal a few times. Check for leaks. I've used this procedure for making sure everything in the braking system is good and finished up utilizing a helper to get those last few bubbles out, which didn't take very long.

Do you recall which Mallory pump you used?

Sounds like a vacuum leak.

I run Eibach springs/Tokico dampers without the spacers. I haven't had any issues, i.e. no weaving when hitting irregularities. Make sure you do use bump stops, the progressive polyurethane ones work nicely.

Everyone that's used the Holley Red says they're loud. I haven't heard the noise personally so I'm probably going to put it in and see for myself. FWIW, any sort of factory pump is likely going to be quieter than an aftermarket one. You can also use an EFI pump and regulate it down. Just make sure you have a restriction-free return line and place the regulator after the carbs.

Great, here I am about to install a Holley Red for my triples this weekend. It came with my 240Z shell and the triples on my 260Z have been asking for more fuel. I've been on the fence about using the Holley or getting something else. In my research, the Carter 4070 seems to be a nice alternative, however I don't have info on noise. Since I already have the Holley I haven't pulled the trigger on another fuel pump. The RX-7 pump seems to come highly recommended by those that have used them.

Bingo.

Vertical loads are picked up by the upright and absorbed by the spring/damper. Lateral loads are picked up by control arm and steering rack bushings. Longitudinal loads are picked up by control arm and T/C rod bushings. Stiff springs with poor/improperly spec'd dampers will contribute to a harsh ride. I have no clue what bushings of "vertical parts" refers to. Rubber will isolate the vibrations more, but you suspension will be better controlled due to less compliance (little movement at bushings). Like I said, springs and more importantly, dampers, will affect the ride more than bushings. I have poly, but I also have a stiffer suspension setup so I can't really comment on the effect of just the bushings. The ride is stiff but tolerable.

Doesn't make a bit of sense to me. Vertical and horizontal suspension parts? Are you talking about the direction of loads experienced by the parts? What is this going to accomplish?

I've had this happen after I first got my 260Z. The alternator was not charging the battery. You should see about 14.5V at the battery at around 2500rpm. I went through the FSM diagnostics, and while I was testing the alternator and VR it started working. Turned out I had a bad electrical connection at the alternator.

I almost got a 944 before I got a Z, the turbos are great. I was very impressed by the Boxster (Cayman must be heaven) as well, but that may be too new for you.

Don't need it. I removed all of mine and have no warm-up issues. The exhaust manifold warms up the carbs before the coolant even has a chance to. I don't remember the sizes, but they are very likely all BSPT fittings, not NPT. Good luck finding that at home depot! You may be able to get away with using NPT and teflon tape, but it's much more preferable to use the proper fittings. You can find them online at sites like McMaster Carr, or possibly at a specialty hardware store.

Secondly, read up on how breaker point ignition systems work. I don't get how you can try to solve something without first understanding how it works. We've pointed you in the direction you need to head to, but the work must be done by you. Otherwise, you're just going to have others solve your problems for you without you learning a whole lot about what is actually going on (this is how a lot of "internet myths" begin, BTW). Asking a well-researched and thought out question is great, so read up on the fundamentals of what you're working on as you will learn a lot more than by just staring at the engine and guessing how things work.