LeonV

Yes, dealer add-ons usually.

Mine seem to be reproducing...

Mmm, those fill the wheel-wells nicely!

The US 260Z used the HMB46W-4 (per FSM). Regarding US models: they also incorrectly state (and perpetuate the myth) that the 260Z had less power than the 240Z. Again, Nissan rated the 260Z with 12 more hp than the 240Z.

In the USA, the L26 had 12 more HP stock than the L24, according to Nissan. The 260Z had bigger exhaust valves, not inlets. Both "flat-tops" and "round-tops" are Hitachi carburetors. The flat-top Hitachi carbs were an improvement in design over round-tops: they had separate idle and main circuits as well as a power valve. However, this made them a bit more complex and since they were such a "unique" design, people didn't know what to do with them. I believe slightly different versions of the flat-top Hitachi were used overseas with great success.

Sounds like you need another Z!

I agree, I just seem to get surprised by people's laziness every time.

The MSA 6-1 is a nice piece, just has shorter primaries than the Nissan Motorsports and Stahl. With that said, I'm using the MSA 6-1 in the build for my other 260Z.

Forged pistons are unnecessary, they have nothing to do with "higher boost". Forged pistons allow for higher piston speeds, so unless you plan to rev to 7500rpm+ there is no point. Just about every block/head combo has been turbo'd with success. It's not so much what individual parts you use, but how you use them . Knowledge of engine management and engine dynamics is a requirement for anything but a stock turbo setup.

Wow, those are some fantastic photos, bet they don't hide a thing...

The spacer is not required if the gland nut is seated on the insert properly, i.e. there are threads showing on the gland nut with it torqued down.

FWIW, your 98 octane (RON) is equivalent to our 93 octane (AKI).

Agreed. You will not find an "exceptional" Z for $2k. It may look great, but will likely have some (i.e. a lot) of serious flaws. If not, you got lucky.

Offset/eccentric bushings

The perfect time for Megajolt!!!

I've heard they're NLA but was hoping there was still a way to get new ones. They fill out the engine bay pretty nicely! I'm a header hoarder though... I really considered buying a slightly used Stahl that someone was selling on HZ a while back. If you're really patient and diligent in searching, something will pop up.

I hope you torqued all suspension pieces with the car on the ground and loaded, as the FSM describes. Otherwise, put it back in the air (make sure you have the same type of bushing left and right), loosen and snug suspension fasteners, drop it down, load it up, and torque to spec.

What's your budget?

BTW, I got another Z and another set of Webers, 45s this time (thanks to "theguppies" for the tip)! We'll see if I can get an engine rebuilt before the next tuning day... I'm keeping the orange one as well, so I'm ready to roar either way!

Good move.

Glancing upon the rusty Z, Camelot and his men retreated in horror...

Just use a stock clutch. I'll be using a stock Exedy disk (and pressure plate) with both the Fidanza and Tilton flywheels.

That is a great line!

Then don't do either of those. Give it a real tune-up and drive. Compression ratio: it's one of those things that guys love to put on a pedestal. Don't worry if compression is 8.5:1 or 9.5:1, it's not going to matter much in the end if you don't design the system with everything in mind, not just that oh-so magical compression ratio.

The damper fluid has some control over throttle transitions. If you're going lean on transition, the fluid is too light. Vice-versa for too rich. That's assuming everything else is working properly. Before really tuning the carbs, you have to make sure your ignition is spot on, your valves are properly adjusted, compression is relatively even across cylinders, and NO vacuum leaks. Vac leaks can easily be checked by spraying starting fluid (or other volatile substances) in suspect areas. If idle quality noticeably changes when you spray a certain area, then there is a vac leak there. Usual disclaimer: don't set yourself on fire and be careful about spraying chemicals on paint.