LeonV

I agree with Chas, an N47 shouldn't be too hard to find and will be cheap. The P79 will drop compression too much, but is otherwise interchangeable.

I've seen your car Bryan, it's in great shape! I'd have a very difficult time cutting into such nice fenders.

Nice work on the Z, and a nice wagon to boot!

Some good advice has been presented already but to add a few points: - WOT during cranking should enable "flood clear" mode, not allowing the injectors to open, thus no fuel being sucked into the cylinders - I've never used a crows foot wrench for valve adjustment. Plain open-end wrenches work just fine.

I feel lucky that I've seen one with my own eyes!

Coolant output, correct? The input was in your above photos, unless you mean input into the radiator.

That's interesting to know about the custom offsets. I got the wheels second-hand. The PO removed them from his car which he got from a lady that had gotten the wheels 10 years prior, or so. I think the wheels date back to about 2001, or maybe 2003. I'm not quite sure. To your issue, a shorter tire would put it further from the fender vertically, but I don't imagine there would be much of a horizontal change. I think if you rub now, you'll rub with the 45-series 225s. It'll just take a slightly bigger bump to do so. I was planning on getting RS-3s for my next set of tires, but now I'm feeling a bit cautious. Gotta go measure clearances...

Nice photos Phil. Something like that will definitely distribute coolant flow better than a single or dual exit.

I agree Jeff, I think it's a combo of a slight positive offset (maybe +6mm?) and slightly narrower tires (although both are spec'd 225mm). I'll have to take a wheel off and check the offset sometime.

Thanks! I was thinking of picking these guys up, but I need to measure my air horns first and call Pierce to ensure fitment: Weber DCOE Air Filter<br><font color="red">99427.312G</font>

My 16X7 Panasports (not exactly sure on offset) with 225/50-16 fit without any rubbing. However, tires listed as the same size can differ quite a bit between manufacturers, so it helps to know what tire is being used. Jeff's Hankooks look pretty wide for 225s. I believe the S-Drives are wide for their size too. Mine have 10-year-old rubber on them that will soon get replaced.

Sweet! Could you post the part number and vendor? I'd imagine having wingnuts in the center instead of screws would help the space situation. I need to get some for my 45s, I've got those mesh filters on the air horns currently. I plan to do some testing on air filters when I hit the dyno again.

Plain, straight strut bars are next to useless, if you're concerned about performance. Triangulated bars that connect to the firewall can actually be effective. I believe TEP sells one and there was a recent thread where a forum member detailed how they built their own. If you're racing, check the rulebook on whether they allow triangulated bars for your class. TEP Bar: Nissan Page

I envy the amount of clean space in your garage.

STOP! Do a compression test first. Let us know the results.

As Steve has suggested a few times, download the FSM and check out the BE section.

It was in reference to Steve's post, which I quoted in my reply. Steve was referring to the big, red emergency start button in the engine bay which bypasses the interlock.

Right... Let me ask you this: have you ever done any sort of your own instrumented testing? Have you invested your own time and money just to prove that you're right to some guy on a forum? I've posted test results on other subject matters as others elsewhere have used their time to do proper testing on their own coin, and then posted it on a public online forum. If you so badly want me to set up controlled, instrumented testing on this subject, I'm happy to do so if you pay me for my time, supplies, and dyno time. You like to complain about how others don't have "conclusive" evidence, yet you never seem to have your own. Maybe we should ONLY talk about things that have been "conclusively" proven, because apparently everything else is just worthless BS. I'm sorry that I applied fundamental engineering principles, related empirical evidence, and logic in an attempt to describe a physical phenomenon. Guess that's just bull**** too. Moving on...

Actually, this conversation originally stemmed from your assertion: Your claims were the ones that were completely made-up and unsubstantiated.

The stock EFI pump would flow plenty at 3psi. Setup your regulator to regulate backpressure and the pump will be quiet and reliable. This is assuming that 280Z fuel feed and return lines are the same diameter.

Very well could be! My EDIS module and relay/fuse panel rests where that button used to be...

Are you sure about that, Phil? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetor-systems-s30/46788-ste-syncrometer-higher-rpm-balancing-arghhhhh.html

First Test: short the starter + and solenoid spade terminals with a screwdriver and see if it spins. Second Test: measure voltage to solenoid with key at START. If it's less than 10V, there is too much voltage drop. If it's zero, then it could be wiring, interlock, etc. I wired in a $5 relay to solve this issue on my 260Z. I've also disabled the interlock.

Welcome! Post some pics and I'm curious of the VIN/build date. I'm a 260Z fan, if you can't tell.

I was planning to do the same thing before deciding not to. Another 260Z owner told me about his mistake, cutting the bumper shock before realizing that it can be depressurized and compressed!