emccallum

This is what the one I posted looks like. I didnt do it for authenticity as much as knowing what was finished. The applicator is nice, as you just shake it and dab it on like a marker.

Not sure if its an exact match to OEM, but I used this and it works great https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QDP61WT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Car turned out beautiful, both inside and out!! Excellent restoration. FWIW, Georgia is the peach state, even though South Carolina produces way more peaches. 🙂 States vary on registration and auto property tax rates. Several states have no taxes on cars.

Looking nice! I cant recall if there were one or two washers on mine, I think just one. Pretty certain nothing goes on the outside.

very nice!

What year maxima rear calipers? Pretty certain a bolt goes in the fender, painted.

Have considered buying new remanufactured rear calipers from a place like rock auto? I dont have the best of luck with them, but sometimes they have stuff pretty reasonable for old cars.

Pretty sure its a phillips screw with a trim washer in that spot. J hook is below the panel and a coat hanger round metal piece is at the top. This picture is from BAT auction

It has worked for me many times, especially when I replace everything and dont bench bleed. Old BMW's were really hard to bleed, at least for me, without this method. FWIW, mountain bike brakes are bled like this. 🙂

Try reverse bleeding the clutch.

Oh no, that really sucks. Once you clean it and repaint, it shouldn't be very noticeable to anyone (except you)😆. That exhaust looks way too nice to put under the car. I cant wait to see it installed.

I replaced the valve seals on my car using a "universal" tool. It was tough, even with a helper. I am not sure I could have done it solo.

I will one up you. Rebuilt my first z back in the early 80's and took for its first run, out of the driveway, and the pedal gets stuck on the floormat! Headed to the four lane and I decided to push in the clutch, revs went to redline for a few seconds before I could shut it down! Didnt seem to hurt it and it ran hard for years after that. If you want 'em fast, break 'em in fast!

I use distilled water for start up, then drain and add coolant later when I fix the o e hose clamp I forgot to tighten.

I think there were several driveshafts in the parts car I gave to Patcon, one may have been from an early car that I converted to a five speed. If you dont have any luck with a shop, maybe reach out to him.

I wouldnt be surprised if the fan clutch is bad. When its hot take a rooled up newspaper and touch the fan blades. If it stops easily, its toast. Get a new one. I just bought a made in Japan one for $64 from Zcar depot. My car was fine in the spring, and recently I took it out in the hot weather and noticed it heating up when going slow. Clutch wasnt doing anything.

Are you able to get good quality fuel there? I know mine runs much better on non ethanol premium. Fuel quality has gone downhill since the 70s

Then choke is off, move to ignition.

What you really need to check is that the choke nozzle is fully seated (up) into the carb with choke off. Black thing in the picture. Then put the choke on and check the nozzles, they should pull down, away from the carb. Do that a few times to make sure they arent hanging up. If the little rubber fuel lines are stiff, that can make them hang up. You can loosen the screw at the cable and push up on the nozzles to make sure they are seated (blue arrow), then tighten. Fast idle is adjusted from a different place. The main thing is the nozzle seating all the way with the choke lever off.

See the fuel line on the bottom? Push that part up to make sure its seated. Pull the choke lever back and forth and watch them open and then close. Make sure they arent getting hung up. I think you said these were ztherapy, so they should be pretty good. I second the others on ignition.

you can check the cables, but make 100% sure the choke lever on the bottom of the carb is not stuck on.

I use a wire at work called Elgiloy that is easy to bend, then becomes resilient when heat treated. I think different wires react differently when heated, so you would need to know what you have. Wire that I use for tiny springs, are heat treated. They require patience to bend as they are brittle and can only be bent one time.

.016 diameter wire? That is pretty small. I have plenty of 016 wire in various SS grades. If Cody is coming my way anytime soon send one with him and I bend one or mail you some wire.

When I did a 5 spd swap on a 70 model (4spd car) I had to trim the trans tunnel and the console a little. I also did an r200 rear end and recall having to swap the mustache bar and had some issue getting the proper driveshaft. Thats one reason all those mounts and driveshaft stuff was in that parts car you got. Do you think the position of your rear end is making a difference in the sway bar? Would an offset rear mustache bar help? Others would know better but I think the early cars were set up with the rear end forward a bit. Just throwing that out there.

I think the metal (on the trans tunnel) is dimpled and marked to cut out the area for a manual. Peel back the insulation and look closely. That trim ring looks right and its held in with phillips sheet metal screws. You are getting there!