emccallum

I think I would lay that harness out on a board and go through it from one end to the other. Check every connector and bulb. Once you get it laid out it isnt quite as daunting. When I got mine all back together, I was having an issue. It turned out to be one terminal on a connector at the passenger firewall was pushed out of place. I was panicked it was something deep under the dash! I have a box of gauges, and maybe a partial dash harness. Let me know if you need anything. Great progress!

If you want to make some measurements, I would be happy to check them against mine. I know where there is another pedal box that is yours 😁 When I was messing with my booster I remember there were some differences in the push rods that go into the master, but I dont recall anything on the pedal side.

You swapped from an automatic to a 3 pedal box, are there differences in the pedal boxes over the years? Maybe there were different length adjusters going from the booster to the pedal for different years or auto and manual. Silver part in the picture. Just throwing it out there.

Isnt there a stop on the pedal box that can be adjusted?

What happened to the original pedal stop? I had to add a hood hinge latch on my FJ40 restoration after it was painted. I used some 3M panel adhesive that I got from a body shop. It hasn't budged, that stuff is strong. But, I think a couple of spot welds in that area will not be noticable as the carpet covers it.....and who (besides us) lays under the dash! I had to remove my clutch master and adjust the booster rod a couple of times, as the aftemarket master was way different.

Glad you found it! You may want to consider going with a LED compatible flashers (blinker and hazard). When I put my car back together the running light fuse was getting really hot. I swapped all the bulbs and flashers to LED and it made a huge difference. Several threads on this. I think I bought everything from Amazon.

Same screws on mine as well.

What fun would it be if it worked right the first time!

Is the hinge hitting the metal piece thats on top of the rubber? I think it is supposed to be offset.

https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/nikki-fuel-pump-rebuilt-kit-for-prince-ha30-fairlady-s30-skyline-gc10-with-l20-l24-engine?variant=39616128811117 This may work, but check to be positive!

I did buy this Nikki pump from ebay, but I cant recall if I just used parts out of it or swapped the hose connections. Chances are I spent too much time and money to get an OE pump to look and work properly!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/163290448232

Just a heads up, I think I remember some posts about aftermarket mechanical fuel pumps not working because the arm wasnt hitting the eccentric. Best to see if you can find an NOS one or if you have an original rebuild kits may still be around. I wish I could remember exactly what I went through to get an OEM rebuilt, but I recall having a large ziploc of parts and pieces. My car (72) does just fine with the mechanical only. A bit long to start after sitting, but no other issues.

@kcpope, I have one. PM where to send it too.

Let me look around and see what I have.

As soon as you lay under the dash, you realize you forgot the first tool you need, or its under your back and you cant reach it. Great work!

While you have it open, you can suck on the vac advance rubber hose and make sure the advance is working properly. Plate should rotate and return. I dont think that's your issue but gives you some piece of mind that advance is working. Replacing pertronix (as Patcon suggest) is easier than removing the head.

No, I would just make sure that the shaft doesnt have any play (wobbling around). Remove the cap, remove the center rotor (part that spins), then wiggle the metal shaft left and right. If it does have play, then you have issues with the dizzy bushings and it needs work. It will have play up and down but should not have play laterally. Take the #4 plug wire and swap it with the #3 plug wire. Swap them at the plug AND the distributor cap. If your fouling plug moves to #3 then you have an ignition problem, if it doesnt you have a problem somewhere in the motor.

I would eliminate everything I could before pulling the head, especially since you have good compression, no smoking and no signs of a bad head gasket. You may want to remove the rotor in the dizzy and check the dizzy shaft for play. It should have no play. If it has play that can cause inconsistent firing. I dont know if it could cause a single cylinder to always missfire or how a pertronix would be affected. I do recall you getting better running when you were messing with the ignition wiring. Maybe swap a plug wire just to be sure it isnt one of the wires.

Maybe glue a thick piece of rubber to the top to cushion the speed shift!

I used this BAT auction car for a lot of reference pictures. Lots of detailed pictures. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-124/

It isn't too bad of a job. When I was young we used to a few pieces of heater hoses to hold the chain in place! Take your time and dont forget the two front bolts on the head. I hope you find something wrong 🙂

1,800 and 6 months.

Tri city plating did mine. It was expensive and took a long time, but they did a good job.

Looking great. Its game on now. My defroster hoses had been modified by mice. I got some decent replacements from datsun rescue. I need to go through my "extra" box and get you some pictures to see if you can use any of it.

There has to be a reason its 400 more. Looking at the pictures on the websites I noticed that the Vintage dash has the metal integrated into the center dash area and the datsun garage one doesn't seem to have that. Maybe call vintage and ask why you should buy their dash. Still cheaper than I paid for Just dashes. Your car is going to look great.