IdahoKidd

Local glass shop had one over night. Local body shop beat their price and had it over night. Mine was tinted at the top, was $125.00 not installed. That was in September.

I just ordered kyb 103 with built in bump stops..... $11.50 ea

Personal favorite is "ran when parked"

The pic would be cool but the logistics might be rough. Someone is not going to be able to be there. I was thinking to rent the local water park and have a potluck one evening. Again, same issue. A key ring with "Z" on one side and the club name on the other, T shirt, there is a guy on ebay that does custom Z mugs-these things everyone can get even though they can't make the "event". Not knowing much about the club, but something for the garage/meeting place. Keggerator, pop machine, bbq grill might work too. Could buy a digital camera for pics of events, but could pass that camera around to each memeber, have them take a pic of their car , and make a collage on a wall, each member signs there photo, etc. Would make a great back drop at the meeting hall. (Just over the keggerator:beer:)

Check and double check the ground connection at the battery. I would (and am) betting it is a bad connection at the battery.

I just bought the Tokico Illumina package (ILK 252) and it is still in transit. Should I have gotten something else? From all I could find to read, it was the most straight forward setup and one of the most highly regarded, but I don't see any mention of it in this thread. Now I am second guessing? And since I am already here, what about strut boots? I assume they should be installed. I have KYB 103's coming (with bump stops)

If your club had let's say $800 to spend on all the members what would be a great idea to cover such a diverse group?? Maybe it is just me, but I have absolutely no idea what you are trying to ask. Are you trying to put on an event that would include all the members? If so, how many members? are you talking spouses and family? Others are making it sound like you are trying to make it a fund raiser or to generate income for the club. Some back ground and intent would go a long way in determining response. This is one of those "My car won't start, how come?" questions

Good call on passing. One of the guys in our group has a very early and a very late 260. Getting the right parts are a matter of getting across to the parts guy what you have. I could be wrong, but don't think they made a 75 260 though (in the states). Think they were the fist fuel injected 280's. Been a long time since I fooled with CA emissions, but I 'think' that 75 and older is exempt. Absolutely double check with CARB or online, but check from a reliable source. FWIW, I bought 1 owner 240 with 43K miles in pretty damn good condition for $1000. Put another $600 into it, hoses, belts, brakes, general stuff, and have a great car. You can literally put a dollar value on patience. And a little luck never hurts!

The flywheel probably won't just fall off, in fact, you might even have to give it a gentle tap. It is always best to loosen one of the bolts, then put it back just finger tight snug while taking the others out just in case.

Judging from the surface rust visible, there is likely substantial rust under the car. The paint is terrible.

Drive through paint job. Wonder if a magnet will stick to it?

hmmm, can't see the pics. What kind of price tag? Sounds like lots of work has been done. One of two things. It will be a great unit because someone has already done the work. OR. It will be a nightmare because whoever did the work didn't know what they were doing. you need to go to the footer that says "go advanced" , then manage attacments, then browse and find the files, then upload to get the pics to show

If it has rust like pictures one and two, don't buy it! The doglegs are under the door and in front of the rear tire. They can be replaced, as I did this one, but can be an indication of more rust. Hatch rust usually occurs on the top of the tail light area. My car has the hatch off, but check that flat surface area. I don't have a pic, but look under the battery and tray. These often get rusted quickly. The other likely spots are under the floor mats and in the frame rails under the floor. Once you find a car you are seriously considering, get under it somehow and have a look. Not all rust is fatal and should make you pass on a purchase, but you really need to be aware it is there. What model do you have your eye on? 240? 280? ZX?

Decide too if you are wanting carburetted or fuel injected, or if it matters to you. By starting with the best unit you can afford, you may save yourself a ton down the road. Buy according to your ability to maintain the car. If you are a weekend mechanic and enjoy the work or if you want turn key and no hassle, the price does vary. Rust is 'the' issue, but there are a lot of cars out there that are rust free to choose from. Search the forums here for specific areas, but floors, battery trays, and hatches are common problems. If you find rust in one area, almost certainly there is more elsewhere. Good luck!

The yellow starter excite wire is so small, perhaps 18 gauge? that it couldn't put much of a load on the switch any way. I was certain it was a gimmick, I simply couldn't figure out the need for one that style.

Looks like one I just hauled to the crusher. $200 parts car.

Hard to know where else when you don't say where you've been. MSA, one of the banners across the top of the page, has them

look at hybridz.org lots of options there, from hack jobs to pretty decent looking stuff, if you are into that sort of thing.

here is the link, looks to light weight to me http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160541492878&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT I hadn't heard of anyone doing "this" and not sure what it would serve

I am not sure what "smelly" really means, but I know my new motor smells on startup and when warm, but it smells like a new motor. I am assuming you mean exhaust smell? Is it the type that burns your eyes, just smells like rich exhaust, or burning surface oil and paint? You might give it a couple of really hard drives, get everything that will ever get hot, hot, and then see what you have. It may just need to break in, and your nose just may need to adjust. Hard to tell from Idaho.......

I see a starter relay available on ebay for $15. Am I missing something? Doesn't the key signal the relay/bendix on the starter motor and all of the amperage goes directly from the battery to the starter and not through the switch? I am trying to figure out the benefit to this (looks like typical aftermarket relay)

I agree with Arne and I believe they are the same price.

Same starter. I just put a starter from a manual motor onto my auto motor and works perfect. I wish changing the flex plate (missing tooth) were so easy.

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't a Duramax one of those that is set up like my GTO or my wife's HHR in that only shows the voltage on the 'Driver Info Center' or whatever it's called when either you select the voltmeter or when there is a problem? Were talking about a 280Z voltmeter that shows constantly..... Nope, just has a voltmeter gauge on the right side of the dash from 8-16 volts. Nothing to indicate amperage drop or loss. But, when it says 8 volts, the rig becomes much to heavy to push...... I am sure an engineer somewhere decided it was better to use a volt meter (although it was more likely a bean counter that decided it was cheaper) in all these cars. I grew up depending on the ammeter. On my service trucks, I can tell if the guys left a light or a heater or something on in an enclosed trailer by looking at at the ammeter when I park for the night. It is all a matter of preference I think.

Guess I am old school. All of my stone age vehicles have an amp gauge. Always look at it, no matter the vehicle when I get out. If it shows on the neg side, something is still one, brake light, headlight, etc. Going down the road and it shows neg, something bad is happening. By the time the volt meter shows 8 volts on the duramax, it is much to late to do anything.....