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mbentsen

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Everything posted by mbentsen

  1. Hi Mike, Sorry to scare you, but you may want to check metal behind your crack. If you check out my gallery photos you'll see what I mean. Both sides of my 240z 73' looked not to bad from the outside, until I began to investigate the undelying layers of metal. It seems like the metal wasn't treated properly from Datsun. You might be able to poke a little dentist mirror and flashlight through gaps from the inside, to get a view, without cutting it open. I hope you don't have the rust that I had. Rgds, Michael
  2. HI ALL, I AM IN THE MIDDLE OF FITTING A R32 RB20DET DRIVE TRAIN INTO A 73' 240Z. I'M A BIT UNSURE WHETHER THE STOCK 240Z FUEL TANK BAFFELS ARE SUFFICIENT FOR NORMAL STREET USE. RUNNING A NEW COMMODORE VL TURBO FUEL PUMP AND USING THE OLD DRAIN HOLE FOR FUEL EXIT, I'M HOPING THE OEM BAFFELS SHOULD BE SUFFICIENT. THE OLD EXIT IS USED AS A RETURN LINE. THE OLD RETURN LINE IS SOLDERED CLOSED. THE TWO BAFFELS ARE APPROX 200MM APPART WITH THE EXIT IN THE MIDDLE. ANOTHER CONCERN IS THAT I WOULD CLOSE UP THE BAFFLE GAPS BY USING POR15 SLOSHING FUELTANK SEALING PAINT. TO ME IT LOOKS LIKE THE FUEL ESCAPES THROUGH THE TINY GAP BETWEEN THE SPOTWELDS OF THE BAFFELS TO THE FUEL TANK. SHOULD I CUT OPEN THE TANK, AND DRILL SOME SMALL HOLES INTO THE BOTTOM OF THE BAFFELS, JUST IN CASE? WHAT ABOUT THE EVAPOARATIVE POLUTION GEAR (CHARCOAL CANISTER), ANY SUGGESTIONS HOW TO FIT IT? CHECK OUT THE FRESHLY DOWNLOADED PHOTOS IN THE GALLERY SECTION. REGARDS, MICHAEL
  3. mbentsen posted a gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
  4. Yes, it will not bolt on, but slide straight in. The surrounding collar seems a bit small on the 240z shaft to keep out dust and dirt. Any opinions on this? I might try and source a R32 to yoke, since the drive shaft is going to be shortened anyway. Michael
  5. Ivan, My starting point was to use the stock tail shaft. It can be used, as well as the LHS engine mount from R32. But the gearstick sits about 70mm too forward in the car. Height wise the engine will just clear the towers, using a long spirit level running between the guard mounting flanges. The engine will be sitting on a slope on about 10 degrees or more (gearbox end down and front up). I'm not sure if this is healthy oilwise in the engine/gearbox, any opinions on this? I have decided to lower the engine as far as is posible neatly and shift it back leaving about 40mm clearance to the firewall. This has got to be the most important decision in engine conversion. Any shortcut and it will come and bite you.... Michael
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