JEFF

Here is the scoop - Fresh hone and rings in .030 over flat top pistons in the L24. laped the valves on the N47 and assembeled with new gaskets.(cylinder compression is at 180 psi across all 6 cylinders) I have the fuel injection for the '78 head all figured out. Last night i started it up. Started up on the first piston to the top- i was excited!!! After timing it - i let it run about 8-10 min. to clear the cylinders of the assembly oil and seat the rings alittle. I shut it off to have a celibration ciggerette. I have oil dripping out of the header - I ran it some more - Dripped alot more - ran it some more - dripped more - after about 1 hour of the smokie shop i decided something is not right - Go to the site and ask -- ANY SUGGESTIONS GUYS ??? - Jeff

I can't read so i do not know what it said in the lower left. I like it - I now have it, Thanks!! ( Wife thinks it's cool too. ) - Jeff

Warm the casting around the caps with a propane tourch(use propane or mapp gas so you CAN'T get it hot enough to warp the casting )Soak the caps with liquid wrench ( good and wet ) while they are hot ( it helps draw the liquid wrench in ). Go inside and eat dinner.Have coffee after dinner. Hold the half shaft in your vise close to the hole that holds the u-joint cap. Use a hammer and a steel bar ( round stock that is a little smaller than the cap ) I deticated a socket wrench for this purpose. Smack the 'socket wrench' hard with the hammer (it's very hard to bend the half shaft - i've done a dozen or so and never bent one yet so hit it hard it's been in there awhile.) Drive the u-jount and cap thru (spraying it with the LW occasionaly)untill the cap falls off the opposite side - then drive it back the way you came from untill that one falls out. Seperate the too sections. Repeat the process for the other two caps. Besure to clean EVERYTHING really good before assy. ( make sure the holes in the half shaft sections are smooth ) A light smeer of greese in the holes will ease assy. I hope i've been able to help. - Jeff

Procrastinate... NOW!!! - Jeff

7.5:1 compression is pretty close to stock turbo compression ratio. I think it is 7.4:1. -Jeff

Why do you / I need the 280z tach. ? don't I just connect the Bw wire to the pos. side of the coil ?? - Jeff

"This is done to covert everything to a SAE standard day, which is 60° F, 0% Humidity, and 29.92 inches barometric pressure" Where do they get 29.29 inches of barometric pressure ?? I thought / understood that natural bp is 14.7 . Do they increse it for testing?? - Jeff

I'm not sure about the ratios - But the 280ZX trans fits nicely - R180 or R200 will work fine - R180 will need your '73 drive shaft - the R200 will need the drive shaft from the donor car. - Jeff

I've always done it between the cam and the rocker arm with out any problems. Am i doing it the wrong way?? - Jeff

At 33 years old, my wife and i have 2 boys and 3 girls -- I can testify for most of the statements above!! -Jeff

Dealer Option is correct. When the Z cars hit the car lots here in the states the dealers could not keep them in stock!! SO..... Lets make a few extra bucks on these cars...... replace the stock steel wheels with the mags and jack up the price !!! That is the true story. Exelent rims by the way. - Jeff

Clean and undercoat well - the whole area. Jeff

2Manyz --- Correct - I've welded on them before ( 6061 rod ) - Jeff

I aint no dummy - I went to high school for 7 years!! or was it school high for 7 years?? - Jeff

2ManyZs - My N47 head does have the place for the mechanical fuel pump - its just not cut out in the middle for the pump arm to go through. The mounting bolt holes are there & taped. - Jeff

2ManyZs - I have a N47 head from a '78 280 - no michanical fuel pump access is machined in it. - Jeff

Zedrally- thanks - i'll try anything at this point - i'll pm you with what i find out. - Jeff

Zedrally - I do not understand your reply - - Jeff

The pictures that you posted are not of a 280 engine - unless someone machined the head out and installed a mechanical fuel pump. - Jeff

billcapp - It shows the timing to be set the same on both the cars - I'm sure that the distributor is installed in the same position that it came out of the 280z.....BUT i've gotten things backwards before so it is a good thing to recheck - Thank you for bringing that up. - Jeff

Zedrally- Wouldn't the vaccuum advance hit the intake if i rotate the distributor 180? Can i unscrew the mounting plate and rotate the internal parts 180? The distriburor body is larger on the 280 part so i couldn't mount the guts in the 240 distributor body. Thanks - - Jeff

I recently installed a 1978 (n47) head, fuel injection & electronic ignition on my 240z block (with flat top pistons). Both the engines ran good before the transplant. I can't get the new 'hybred' to fire. Shouldn't the distributor on the 280 be at a the same installation position as the 240 engine?? I am sure the crank/cam timing is correct - set it by the(240z manual) book. I have the injectors working fine - I have excelent spark with new plugs & wires. Doesn't that point the finger at the spark timing - I set that by the book (240z manual) also. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks guys - Jeff

Lift the front end and spin the wheel. Check the valve lash. Chech the rivits on the brake pads. Check the rotar face for run-out with a dial indicator. I hope you find it before you pull all your hair out! My 2 cents. - Jeff

EXELLENT!!! Off to try it NOW!!! - Jeff

Smack it hard with a deadblow hammer near the block on the passenger side, ( do not hit the timing chain chamber). If you use a cherry picker ---- "tap" with the deadblow hammer on the valve cover gasket surface(straight down) when the cherry picker has some pressure applied. These ways have both been successful for me without damaging anything. - Jeff